Installing lift tomorrow

Tomorrow I will be installing my bilstein 5100s. I have never installed a lift kit so this should be an experience! I got new Old Man Emu coils to go with the 5100s and they are already assembled. Question: before i disassemble my truck, is there anything that I will need that is not obvious? (example would be something important but small like thread lock or PB Blaster).

Open to tips and tricks as well. Thanks!

 

Are you lifting the rear? If so with what? If you are doing an AAL you will need an angle grinder or dremel with a cut off wheel to cut the leaf center pin.

 

If you’re just swapping coils/shocks and an aal it’s pretty simple and you shouldn’t run into much trouble. Pb blaster is a must have, soak everything with that shit. If you’re replacing uca’s, the passenger side can be a pain in the ass but if not you’re not, no worries. Just retorque everything after 50-100 miles or so, take your time, and make sure you don’t overlook anything simple oh, and get an alignment asap!

 

If you have PB Blaster, spray it now and let it sit over night and then hit it again in the morning and let it sit for about 15 minutes. That way there’s less chance of parts being stuck; easier removal. If yours bilsteins and coils aren’t assemble, most shops may assemble the coils and shock off the books. I had the ratcheting spring compressors and they wouldn’t work for the 5100’s when I had them so had to take them to a shop. They did it for $20 off the books. Took about 10 minutes. Other than that, maybe a pickle fork to separate the UCA’s ball joint from the spindle. For the rear, if it’s an AAL, use a c-clamp, undo the bolt that holds the springs together then loosen the c-clamp enough until you can slide te AAL in and then tighten the clamp back and bolt it back together. I did that with mine and I had both leafs done on 20 minutes.

 

Bilsteins in the front is three bolts on top and the one on the bottom. Slide it out and slide the new one in and reinstall three bolts on top and the one on the lower control arm. Shouldn't even have to listen sway bar but it does make it a little easier. The rear.... do one side At a time. Use vice grips to hold leaf pack together when removing center pin.
Edit. What was said below. Get a alignment afterward and if you plan on wheeling your truck in the dirt, see if you can locate a place in your area that offers lifetime or long term alignment plans.

 

x2 on alignment, Tire lives matter.

 

Goin 3” will affect your alignment but not extremely. That being said, don’t put it off. Get it done ASAP. May not seem like much but 100 miles on tires out of alignment can really screw the tires up. Seen it happen many times.

 

Ok, this is all good info. I hope to accomplish all of this tomorrow. My coils are already assembled with the bilstein so I should just be able to bolt the front on. I got new bilsteins for the rear and a 1.5 aal for the rear. The aal came with new center pins.

I did not buy UCA's yet.....but we will see

Also, I have the lifetime alignment from Firestone so hopefully they honor this. Thanks for all the help!

 

I learned this the expensive way.

 

I got some 285 wildpeaks so I will definitely have to get an alignment

 

If you ever get new UCA's, it's best to find a shop that is familiar with doing alignments on lifted rigs, preferably one that does it by hand. I've tried many different commercial tire shops and they've never been able to get it dialed in as much as outlaw off-road who does there's by hand, as soon as I drove it out of the parking lot my truck was locked in like a rollercoaster, however, firestone should be able to get you close enough to prevent un-even tire wear.

Also, be careful with the brake lines when moving around the general area.

 

This. Be wary of it. I haven’t had any problems with my light racing UCA’s but I don’t have any experience with uniball UCA’s in case you go that route. I want some for the improved travel rate on suspension. However, for basic trails and moderate off-roading the light racing UCA’s will perform just fine. Once you hit 3” the stock UCA’s will still work but you’re alignment will never be exact.

 

Fun fact: all the alignment adjustments are on the lower arms.

 

Yes, you're correct, and?

 

If running with overloads removed for 1.5”, you will need to cut the new center pins.

 

The upper arm doesn't play into alignment unless you have other geometry issues like spacing or not enough travel at the ball/joint.

 

You don't need coil spring compressor with this method.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=vkVLBOnAifc

 

"geometry issues like spacing or not enough travel at the ball/joint." Are you not changing the front end geometry when you lift your truck?

 

You're either going to have enough travel to still have down travel or you are not. This is not a function of alignment. This is a function of keeping factory upper arms and adding extended length shocks or lifting it with preload. Changing upper arms also allows for better angles so it doesn't hit the tires but this can be fixed with backspacing or wheel spacers. This is still not something alignment can fix (unless you love positive camber I suppose, but that kinda defeats the purpose of GO GET AN ALIGNMENT.)

 

You've officially gone down the rabbit hole, all I was suggesting was that if the OP gets new UCA's (to improve angles as you've mentioned), to have a preferred shop who's used to working with positive camber vehicles (from lifting a vehicle) in order to get the best specs possible.

If you have any more superior knowledge on suspension dynamics, please feel free to keep posting.