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Installing OEM Keyless Entry

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016+)' started by motofish84, Jul 15, 2019.

  1. Jul 15, 2019 at 5:37 AM
    #1
    motofish84

    motofish84 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hi folks.

    I decided to do a write up on installing the OEM keyless entry.

    I have a 3rd Gen SR with power locks but no keyless entry. My understanding is that this kit will work for anyone that is in the same situation. I believe that the SR is the only trim level that doesn't have it. So, if you have power locks this kit should work for you.

    I know there's a couple of threads about this but I read them before doing my install and they still left me with some questions. Thought I would try and write something that covers all bases.

    First off I want to say that if you don'f feel comfortable with this procedure or your abilities than don't attempt it. With that said, if you thoroughly read the instructions, have some patience and take your time this is easy enough for almost anyone to do. It took me about 2 hours or so and I was taking pictures which added some time. I take no responsibilities if you attempt it and something goes wrong. This is only meant to be a guide and you will need the instruction booklet as well.

    Alright, so the kit I used is Toyota part # 00016-32901

    IMG_4478.jpg

    Here's a link to the install instructions from Toyota: Instructions


    You'll need some tools:
    1.Phillips screwdriver
    2.Wire strippers
    3.Wire cutters
    4. Needle nose pliers
    5. 10mm socket / ratchet

    IMG_4480.jpg

    First, you'll want to pop the hood and disconnect the negative terminal on the battery -
    IMG_4481.jpg

    Next you want to remove the drivers side scuff plate as well as the left lower kick panel.
    The scuff plate removes by pulling up around the perimeter, it is only held on with clips. The kick panel has one plastic nut that needs to be removed. You'll see it near the top of the dead pedal. You should be able to remove the nut with your hand. Once the nut is off you can pull the panel outward to release the clips.

    upload_2019-7-15_6-9-7.jpg
    upload_2019-7-15_6-10-8.jpg



    Once those panels are removed you can move on to the lower dash and lower steering wheel cover.

    You will have to release the cable from the hood release handle. To do this you pull the release and while holding it out you grab the cable with a pliers and remove the lead cable end by guiding out of the slot it sits in.
    IMG_4482.jpg

    Then remove the three bolts (indicated by arrows in the diagram) holding on the lower knee trim. Once the bolts are out you pull the trim outward working your way around the perimeter.

    upload_2019-7-15_6-14-7.jpg

    Once it's loose you can remove any of the switch connectors. There should only be 3 or so to the left of the steering wheel.

    IMG_4483.jpg
    IMG_4484.jpg

    Last piece of trim is the lower steering wheel cover -
    There are two screws and clips holding this piece. The screws are found behind the steering wheel and can be accessed by turning the wheel to the right and left as pictured:

    IMG_4485.jpg IMG_4486.jpg

    Once the screws are out you should be able to pull the trim down and release it.



    Now the real fun begins.

    The instructions don't really tell you this but they want you to wire everything up and then route the wires and secure them in places. I found it to make more sense to route everything and then make the proper connections. Before I did that I wanted to locate all of the connectors that had wires I'd be tapping into.

    Also, many people who have done this skip the connections for the horn and lights. I chose to use them because I like to hit my lock button to locate my vehicle in crowded parking lots from time to time. The horn beep and lights coming on helps with this. Though you will find that the horn beep is fairly quiet.

    Here are the connectors and pics of their locations:
    connector snip.jpg

    Connector I7 - Ignition -

    IMG_4488.jpg

    Connector C11 - Taillights / Headlights

    IMG_4489.jpg
    Connector S8 - Horn
    IMG_4490.jpg

    Connectors IC1 (unlock motor) and IC2 (lock / unlock switch)

    IMG_4491.jpg

    I disconnected all connectors, mounted my control module and then routed my wiring as per the instructions.

    IMG_4492.jpg
    IMG_4493.jpg
    Here you can see the ground stud you will use. It's on the steering column support bar just above where you mount the control box.

    IMG_4494.jpg
    IMG_4496.jpg IMG_4497.jpg

    Once all of your wires are routed and mostly zip tied in place you can begin T-Tapping into the appropriate wires. T-Taps are pretty easy to use but they should be used in a specific way.

    Refer to the instructions on which specific wires to tap into. The instructions read pretty clearly on exactly which wire on the keyless harness goes to which wire on the vehicle as well as which color T-tap to use. (they are different for different wire gauges)

    As you get into this you may have to cut back or remove the heat shrink on the harnesses to gain decent access to the wires.

    wire locations snip.jpg


    The first wire you tap into is the Red #4 wire on the ignition connector. It's the bigger gauge red wire. When using the T tap you want to lay the wire in the guide area of the tap first. Then close the tap and pinch it with a pliers to secure the clip.


    IMG_4501.jpg

    IMG_4498.jpg
    IMG_4499.jpg
    Then you will insert the male spade terminal connector from the red wire on the keyless harness

    IMG_4502.jpg



    Follow the same procedure for the next red wire (smaller gauge) in the ignition connector. Connecting it to the yellow wire of the keyless harness, as noted by the instructions


    IMG_4503.jpg

    Follow the instructions to install all the remaining T-Taps to the proper vehicle wires. Connect the proper wires from the Keyless harness to their corresponding wire on the vehicle as noted by the wiring chart.

    Connector C11 (headlights / taillights)
    IMG_4504.jpg

    Connector S8 (horn)
    IMG_4505.jpg

    All connections made under the steering wheel and back in their proper locations. Wires are routed and secured along the existing wire harness on the column.
    IMG_4506.jpg

    Now we move on the the connectors in the lower kick panel area. These are for the lock / unlock activation.


    Connector IC1 -

    The Grayish connector requires you to cut and splice into the black wire...there are two black wires here and the diagram can be a little confusing so make sure you are using the SMALLER GAUGE BLACK WIRE -

    IMG_4510.jpg

    You will cut into the wire and strip the shielding off of both ends.

    IMG_4511.jpg

    Then you will crimp the butt connector of the blue wire to the connector side of the black wire and crimp the white wire to the harness side of the black wire.

    IMG_4512.jpg

    Now you can move on to the final connector.

    Connector IC2 -
    I don't have step by step pics of this one but the only special thing to note is that there are two pink / white wires on the keyless harness and it doesn't matter if you mix them up. One is for lock and the other for unlock so use them interchangeably. Just follow the wiring tap locations in the instructions and you'll be fine.

    IMG_4514.jpg

    Once all of your connections are made and wires are routed / zip tied in place, make sure you toggle switch is in the on position.

    If you did everything right the ground outside your truck should look like this:

    IMG_4515.jpg

    Now you can re-connect the negative terminal on the battery and test the system. I recommend doing this before putting things back together in case there's a faulty connection.

    Once everything tests ok you can go ahead and reinstall all of the panels.

    Boom, you now have keyless entry on your 3rd Gen Tacoma SR

    IMG_4516.jpg

    IMG_4517.jpg

    There ya go folks. I hope I covered everything thoroughly enough. If you have any questions feel free to reach out.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jul 15, 2019
  2. Jul 15, 2019 at 6:23 AM
    #2
    KTJO 4x4

    KTJO 4x4 Well-Known Member

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    Great write up. It’s always nice to get some great instructions out here on the forum for others to follow. Anyone wanting to do this and doesn’t want to cut their IC1 Harness, I have a PNP Harness for that Connector that would allow you to not have to do that so you can keep it factory all the way in case you ever want to go back to stock. Send me a PM or just look up Tailgate Lock or Tailgate Opener. I will also have a release soon on a PNP Harness that ties your Drivers side door to your Passenger Side door with two of these Harnesses. For you SR5 folks, you may love it because it works with your fob for the first click it will just unlock the front doors and not the back or tailgate. It will take a 5 pin relay. Stay tuned
     
  3. Jul 15, 2019 at 6:52 AM
    #3
    Sungod

    Sungod Well-Known Member

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    So you have power locks, but not keyless? I had no idea that was even an option.

    Great write up and undoubtedly worth the price. One thing that scared me with the install was the use of the vampire taps. Those are problems waiting to happen.
     
    Hank Heel and Tullie D like this.
  4. Jul 15, 2019 at 7:01 AM
    #4
    KTJO 4x4

    KTJO 4x4 Well-Known Member

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    That’s not true. A lot of people use those T-Taps. A lot of people are fans of them and there are a lot of other things out there that are better. Maybe he will change them later on. However, I have some of these on my truck and they have held up amazing. Plus they are inside the cab so you have less to worry about. I mean I have a couple outside of my cab. Haha but it’s in my fuse box so they are covered. I’m sure I’ll be switching them out soon since I’m redoing my electrical as we speak and upgrading.
     
    Jolly Bill likes this.
  5. Jul 15, 2019 at 7:26 AM
    #5
    motofish84

    motofish84 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yup. I have an SR. With power windows and locks but no keyless entry. I typically wouldn’t buy such a low trim level but I was originally shopping for a Gen2 SR5 and came across this truck. It has all of the options of a Gen2 SR5 that I wanted and then some. Plus the price was too good to pass up. Better fuel economy and lower miles than any Gen 2's I came across plus remaining factory warranty. I knew I’d be swapping wheels and suspension etc anyway so I went for it. I also made sure I could add fogs and keyless after the fact without too much trouble.

    Thanks for the kind words! I hope it helps some people.

    As for the T-Taps, they don’t bother me in this application. I wouldn’t use them on anything exposed to the elements but under the dash I felt comfortable. Plus they were included in the Toyota kit and I’m sure they wouldn’t use them if they were going to create hazards. I have used them on other vehicle product installs with zero failure.
     
    Last edited: Jul 15, 2019
    davidstacoma likes this.
  6. Jul 15, 2019 at 7:46 AM
    #6
    rkaterle59

    rkaterle59 Well-Known Member

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    Best mod I've made to mine so far!
     
    davidstacoma and motofish84 [OP] like this.
  7. Jul 15, 2019 at 7:55 AM
    #7
    Sungod

    Sungod Well-Known Member

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    It absolutely is true. There is no substitute for a proper connection that you can see and feel. Vampire taps can create gremlins that are hard to find. In this situation, it isn't the end of the world because you still have your key.
     
  8. Jul 15, 2019 at 9:42 AM
    #8
    King Kermit V

    King Kermit V Well-Known Member

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    We need more people like you on TW. Thank you for taking the time to write this and positively contributing to the community.
     
    Afilao and motofish84 [OP] like this.
  9. Jul 15, 2019 at 10:18 AM
    #9
    motofish84

    motofish84 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    You’re welcome! I’m glad to help! I’ve certainly exploited use of the forums so it feels good to give something back.
     
  10. Aug 9, 2019 at 8:34 PM
    #10
    Beancooker

    Beancooker Alea iacta est

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    Lots, straight from the factory.
    @motofish84

    Thank you!!! Without your pictorial, finding the wires would have been a pain in the ass. Your pictures made it so easy to find the correct wires. I cannot thank you enough for putting this together. If you’re ever in central AZ, I’ll buy you a beer.

    Fantastic write-up.
     
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2019
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  11. Aug 10, 2019 at 6:09 AM
    #11
    Jim1946

    Jim1946 2020 TRD Sport 4X4

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    Thanks for going to the trouble. Great tutorial.
     
  12. Aug 10, 2019 at 7:45 AM
    #12
    deusxanime

    deusxanime Well-Known Member

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    All of us with the manual transmissions, all the way up to the Pro even, have power locks but don't have keyless entry. Wonder if this would work on ours as well? Not sure if it would be worth it to me since you have to dig your keys out anyway to start it up, but interesting thought and exercise. Anyone done this on the 6MT Off-road, Sport, or Pro?

    Also by "OEM" you must mean Toyota but not specifically Tacoma? Those fobs don't look like the standard Tacoma fobs, if I remember them correctly.
     
  13. Aug 10, 2019 at 8:47 AM
    #13
    Beancooker

    Beancooker Alea iacta est

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    Lots, straight from the factory.
    If you have power door locks but no fob or smart key, yes it’ll work for you.
    OEM, as it is all Toyota parts. I bought mine from Sparks Parts for $120 shipped to my house. It’s four different parts and Sparks puts it together in a package.
    I tried to buy it from Camelback Toyota and they didn’t have the part number in their system. Called Sparks and verified it would work, hung up and ordered online.
    Super easy install, just finding where the wires were located was a bitch. The pics in this thread made it easy to find.

    It is worth the $120 to me for two reasons, forget something in the truck, you don’t have to walk around to the drivers side to get in.
    More importantly, I can open the door for my wife. That makes it totally worth the $120.
     
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  14. Aug 10, 2019 at 9:02 PM
    #14
    deusxanime

    deusxanime Well-Known Member

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    Ah the MT does have a "fob" if that's what you mean, it is part of the key already. So maybe this wouldn't work for us anyway.
     
  15. Aug 10, 2019 at 9:31 PM
    #15
    Beancooker

    Beancooker Alea iacta est

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    Lots, straight from the factory.
    Wait, you have buttons on your key, but they don’t unlock the doors?
     
  16. Aug 10, 2019 at 9:41 PM
    #16
    epa4wd

    epa4wd Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for posting!, I bought this kit a while back but haven’t gotten around to install it yet. :thumbsup:
     
  17. Aug 11, 2019 at 4:44 AM
    #17
    motofish84

    motofish84 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    You're welcome! Happy to give something back to the TW community. It looked like a pain in the ass to me when I first read the instructions. After was all said and done I think it was really pretty easy.

    This is a good question. I don't know the answer to it though. I am curious to know why Toyota would include the fob, power locks and associated wiring and modules but disable the system. I'll have to ask around. I have some friends at dealerships.

    This kit works for many of the Toyota models. It's the Toyota Accessory Keyless Entry System. Not specifically the system that is installed in higher model Tacoma's from the factory.


    You're welcome! Get after it!
     
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  18. Jun 6, 2020 at 5:31 AM
    #18
    bbahunter

    bbahunter Well-Known Member

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    Does your control module have a small white port at the end of it?
     
  19. Jun 6, 2020 at 5:35 AM
    #19
    RushT

    RushT Amateur Everythingist

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    Stellar write up!
     
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  20. Jun 7, 2020 at 1:03 PM
    #20
    bbahunter

    bbahunter Well-Known Member

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    Installed mine today, went smooth because of your tutorial.:thumbsup:
     
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