Intake air temp over 100°

I installed K&N high flow intake system. I was getting about 70°-80° and about 15-17 mpg with stock intake. After installing the K&N intake system I'm now at 90- 100° air intake temp and about 10-11 mph. I have temp reading at around 105° as well. I installed the intake and heat shield perfect to instructions. Can anyone give an idea on how to fix this issue. Also the readings are with truck idling and engine at normal running temp.

 

Unfortunately, you replaced a true cold air intake (stock) with a hot air intake (K&N). Hotter intake temps result in retarded timing to prevent detonation - which equals less power. The heat shield on the K&N will not prevent engine heat from reaching the filter. Only an enclosed box will 'help' prevent that.

That said - mpg shouldn't be that much worse. Did you disconnect your negative battery cable when you installed?

 

Yes and still have high temps. I disconnected a second time just to see if it needed to reset with the same issues

 

Oh - it won't change the temps. Nothing will, short of ditching the K&N. It's sucking in hot engine air now, so the temp reading is correct.

The battery reset just allows the ECU to read the change from scratch.

It's possible the K&N is causing a bad MAF sensor reading. This is fairly common. The MAF Cal from URD can help correct this if it's the case. If you have a means of logging data, you want to see what your LT and ST fuel trims are.

 

agreed......... U took a cool air intake, and swapped in a warm air intake.

OEM, URD, and AFE stage 2 Si, I have measured and all bring in ambient temps from 40/45mph and above.

All get heatsoak at a redlight but that doesnt matter unless u have a habit of napping at red lights.

sorry to burst ur bubble.

ur MPG may be affected soley because of the growl u hear under the hood now, and its causing ur right foot to play the new sounds to your ear by being harder on the gas.

I noticed zero mileage changes from oem, URD, or AFE........ I have however never had nor ever will run an intake that draws in engine bay air.

Your comment about

I believe is moot, because ur at idle and theres no cooling effect.

I also get 100+ at idle.........Try the readings at 40+

 

BRAAAAAP!

 

I does drop at 40+ but if its at 105° idle it drops down to about 92 at 40. I might fab a box or go back to OEM intake with just aftermarket filter

 

get rid of that POS......... its got terrible filtering anyhow.

They may flow well, but thats only because they dont filter as good.

Besides, MAF sensors do not like oil.

 

What are the outside temps you're comparing against?

 

Outside temp is 79 have been in the range 75-81°.

 

I can't understand why anyone would change the filter or piping on their truck.

You're increasing the intake air temp, and the improved flow means nothing to a naturally aspirated engine. The stock filter flows more than well enough to accommodate the air needed.

Think of it like this, putting tires rated for 200 mph on your truck is pointless since you will never break 100 (not saying taco drivers never break 100, humor me). You don't need the added airflow, because as your engine sits you're not even coming close to making out the flow rate of the stock filter. Aftermarket intakes are a waste of funds all around if you're expecting to do that one mod and see ANY benefits other than noise.

 

I'm going to replace OEM air uitake tomorrow what brand filter do you guys recommend. Air raid, afe, injen?

 

The stock filter isn't the problem..... U can dyno the truck with zero filter, and no carbon trap..... It will not gain anything.
However the portion that is causing a bottleneck is the tubing/housing/baffles itself.

There are n/a dynos that show undeniable facts that an N/A 4.0 can be in improved upon.

I'm on my phone, but I'm pretty sure there's a link in my Sig.

Toyota designed the system for compliance and noise reduction, not maximum efficiency.

They are the same company that send out trucks to the US with sub par suspension not capable of handling the rated payload, overactive abs, faulty clock springs, now seemingly faulty seatbelts, terrible tires on the off road models, rear shocks that limit droop and are prone to topping out bone stock with the tsb leaf pack, rear view mirror that's in ur field of view, clocks and temp console that dims without ur control when ur lights are on, FORGOT to install cabin air filters in the 2005 trucks, have had rust issues for years, faulty assembled brake light switch, fall back on their original "WS fluid is good for life.... No its good for 100k.... Wait no its recc at 60K",

And on and on..... There is room for improvement. Granted a hot air intake with terrible filtering capability isn't the way to go, but there are improvements to be had.

 

As you can tell this is my first truck so I'm learning as I go so I'm sorry for the dumb questions. Is it better to go with stock air intake and just change the air tubes or go wit some thing like a violent cold air box. It seems like just changing the air pipes will do the same as the while violent CAI box?

 

Stock, afe stage 2 si, or volant but if u go volant, u may get check engine lights and need the urd maf calibrator.... They all would be simple and better than ur current setup.

 

Man, I love the noise...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H6ofUy8_-6Q

The only noise you hear on that video is the hot air intake as I'm running the really quiet stock muffler. And I get 23-24 mpg around town and 28-29 mpg on the freeway.

 

Yes I enjoy the noise also, it does sound good. Much better than exhaust noises IMO.

 

...and in normal driving it's as quiet as the stock intake.

 

Yeah I'm familiar with them. I've had one on every vehicle I owned up until about a year ago. I remember installing my first (injen) intake on my very first vehicle, a Nissan 240sx. Loved that car and loved the sound. Doesn't seem like that was nearly 10 years ago.

I just got to where I couldn't justify the purchase solely for sound. Different strokes though.

 

What speed were you driving to get that temp from?From my understanding, by about 50 mph the air in the engine bay should be cycled enough not to produce higher temps.