Intermediate steering shaft replacement - Too much Play?

Before you install the new shaft; Spray the heck out of it with Fluid Film so it won't rust, especially the joints. It seems rust kills these pretty fast.

 

the seals on the ujoints were all cracked from age

I don't think lube or fluid film will help but a boot will keep junk out

 

word on the street is there is an atv u joint for it but i would rather swap a new one in.

 

https://youtu.be/TmDa1wKo1AE

Heres a link to a video i made showing the interior steering joint, the lower exterior steering joint, and just general play in the shaft. I have bought an OEM lower shaft and joint and was ready to put it in when i realized how easy i can wiggle this thing around and got scared. Any pointers here?

 

That amount of play is normal. Well, mine moves around that much and my steering is tight (after just replacing lower intermediate shaft). The upper shaft (part above lower) slides backwards for some reason (maybe to help during an accident) so everything wiggles around. I wouldn’t say that’s cause for concern.

 

I read that it slides for accidents as well. Good to know that play is normal though. The lower shaft will be going in soon using your write up as a walk through. Then im gonna do the ziptie mod and see how it feels

 

So after posting I went out to my truck to confirm the upper piece has that much play. I have a plastic guard in the way so I couldn’t get a good grip on it, but it didn’t wiggle at all. Maybe someone else can chime in and confirm either way. I would hate to give you misinformation

 

Hmmmmm...would be a real shame if the OEM part was low quality trash...
Yeah I definitely agree, it would awful for such a CRITICAL component to catastrophically fail. Really unfortunate if an automaker sold one that fell apart in <10 years, and never offered a recall for it. Crazy "hypothetical" world we live in, huh?
You'd think, if that 'hypothetical' automaker knew about the problem, and published a TSB about it back in 2010, they MIGHT think to somehow protect the U-joint from failing on future shafts. Maybe a sheath/bellows. Hmmm...Just thinking out loud here.

Real talk though, I never understood why you would pay premium $$ to buy an OEM replacement when the first part was OEM and failed horribly?

Shocks, sure. Brakes yeah go for it. Go buy genuine OEM and "keep your Toyota a Toyota!" but why would you pay through the nose for an OEM replacement fuel pump that failed at 20k when it's a known issue?? (made-up example of the fuel pump).

In my experience, Dorman is complete and utter low quality trash. Unfortunately, Dorman plays the "we make every part for every application" game, so often they are the only vendor for some parts. It's always a sad day when I'm looking to buy a part on Rockauto and Dorman is the only vendor. It's just a waste of money the parts are so bad.

$175 is the standard price. When I was searching to buy a replacement shaft, the OEM ones were listed from ~$160 to 180. They were pretty consistently in that range. Whether it was OEM ones being sold on eBay or from an actual Toyota dealer.



To actually answer the OP, I just bought this shaft off eBay about a week ago. $56 shipped. I looked it over real good before purchasing. I'm a cheapskate, but I am wary of low quality parts that aren't worth the time to install. I'd rather buy the SKF wheel bearing for $45 than the Dorman for $20 because either way the OEM one is $120. I paid attention to key words in the ad such as "professional grade", "will fit exactly like OEM", "we have a very strict quality control process" and the item having a one year warranty. Also, the ad is relatively well written. Proper English, complete sentences, proper grammar. The item is from Canada, not China, which says a lot. Also, the shipping quote was 5-7 days, but it was at my door 2 days after I paid.
There is also a section in the listing that says "a risk that one in a thousand that may not work properly" which is an interesting bit. I've never seen a vendor delve into such quality control details.
I figure these claims are pretty binding. "professional grade" and "will fit like OEM". If it doesn't turn out to be true, then it's a lie. I know the worst case scenario is I'll get my money back. But I'm willing to risk my time and effort to avoid the Toyota OEM part.
The seller only has 2555 feedback score (which isn't the ultra-high ~1m, but 2.5k also isn't nothing) with a 98.7% rating. Good enough for me.
The only real problem I have is there is no brand name, but I guess for the price, they can't give one.
For what it's worth, I got the shaft in the mail and looked at it carefully. It is indeed a simple part, but seems to be solid as well. I will update when I put it on.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/LOWER-STEERING-SHAFT-FITS-TOYOTA-TACOMA-2005-2015-4WD/222848567902?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

My intermediate shaft lasted 178k miles and 13 years. I’m pretty happy with those numbers to replace it with another oem one.

 

Toyota issued the TSB in 2010 so....

Also, it's a part that should never wear out.

 

Mine has been like this since 80k now im at 117k

 

Let me know how it works out. All the ones i saw looked rebuilt and repainted over rust so i noped.

 

If Dorman made an ass gasket it would fail at the point of installation. Do not use Dorman parts

 

The plastic comes off with a 10 mm and 3 minutes of your time. Pull the carpet back a bit.

 

Also, it's pretty unfair to have this attitude.
That's the equivalent of saying "well my Tacoma is 18 years old, and it doesn't have any frame rust. I'm happy with my frame, the rusted frames must not be an issue!" ....but you live in California bro... That's just not fair.
(also not saying you live in California, just saying for example)

For reference, this is my shaft. 2005 Tacoma. 142k miles. Lived in Northern VA it's entire life.

Amen brotha
Hope these jerks go out of business and stop flooding the market with trash parts.

 

I’m not denying that it’s an issue. I’m just saying that for me and my driving conditions my oem was fine. Would a cheaper alternative last? Probably, but I’m not about to find out to save $100

 

So when you didn’t get foood poisoning from eating Chipotle, but 9/10 people are walking out the door shitting their pants and vomiting everywhere, you would walk in saying “well, I didn’t get sick, so must be okay for me to keep eating here *shrugs shoulders*” ???

 

They depend on name recognition from 20-30 years ago and a lot of people are price point shoppers. I once bought a glass fiber core support that was Dorman and already had stress cracks starting in the corners. Moog is no better

 

I’m not sure why you’re so argumentative about my decision to use an OEM part. It literally has no effect on you. If you think that it’s dumb, then that’s your opinion and you’re entitled to it. Have a great day sir.

 

I don’t appreciate someone pointing someone else in the wrong direction, and I’m not going to stand for it.
It’s a critical steering component that is known to be a failure point. Not only have several, upon several (like literally every single Tacoma owner) people noted this as a major issue, but Toyota themselves came out (albeit quietly) and acknowledged the problem.

I cannot, in good conscious, recommend or allow someone to replace their failed steering shaft with the same OEM part if I can prevent it.
I am personally affected by this issue because the shaft in my own truck is so scarily bad. I don’t appreciate Toyota saying “meh” when the u-joint on my steering shaft is literally failing appont.

You say yours is fine at 178k and 13 years. Are you the original owner? Are you sure it’s the original shaft? How do you know it wasn’t replaced under warranty 10 years ago? Do you lubricate yours regularly? 99.999% of owners don’t.

I will also add that not only does this u-joint wear down, causing massive play, but before it wears down, it rusts and causes severe steering binding. What a double whammy.
Toyota must not know what oxidation or corrosion is, since they can’t get away from it after 20 years of trying. I’m not interested in continuing to give them the ‘benefit of the doubt’. It ain’t that hard, use proper metals and give a proper anti-corrosion after treatment.