Intermittent No Start

The pump/filter/sock is a monolithic fused unit set in a pick-up recirc bucket spring loaded in the gas tank.

The only way to change the fuel filter is to replace the entire pump unit with OEM or do the URD modded one.

The URD modded method is cheaper, not too difficult and gives you the option to have a higher quality and/or higher flow pump (I went with Deatchworks 255lph) and a remote easily replaceable off the shelf fuel filter from any part store.

 

Hence why they went to transponder keys.

 

I should've been more specific...I meant to say I was gonna start working on replacing the fuel pump, i.e. pulling the bed and getting access to the fuel tank without actually dropping the tank (I've dropped a few fuel tanks and hated it every time) because it'll probably take me a few days. I'm definitely gonna go with the URD kit, like you said it's a cheap upgrade so I might as well, even if it doesn't fix the problem. If I get the bed off tomorrow, all I have to do is wait for my parts to arrive so I can get to work on replacing everything.

 

Pulling the bed is definitely the way to go.

Unless you can rig up some pulley system in your garage it takes two people to remove.

Take out the tailgate, tail lights, and anything you can to lighten it, then the 6 bolts (T55 IIRC) and don't forget to stuff all the wires back down and disconnect the wire hangers where they're attached to the bottom of the bed then get a buddy and you can pick it straight up and walk it off.

When you do take the bed off also take the fuel cap off and stuff a rag in the hole or the gas pocket with rip the head off your fuel cap.

I always forget that last bit.

Also I replaced my nasty rusted bed bolts with stainless 1/2 bolts, you have to drill and tap the existing mounts to do so if you go that route but mine were stripped out and just spinning anyways.

 

I'm sure the breaker bar, impact gun and super size can of WD-40 are going to be my friend

 

Haha yep, knew that. Maybe you could have said that in your post- “this only applies to us here in the second gen forum, all 3rd gen 2TR-FEs have immobilizers.” You know, for completeness and accuracy.
Update: I see you have, well done.
I do like browsing 2nd gen forum, lots of good knowledge in this forum.

 

I haven't seen it mentioned, or I'm blind and missed it...

Have you checked for voltage at the injectors? There should be constant voltage on one wire as the ECU switches ground to energize the injectors.

Find a set of noid lights that plug into the injector harnesses and see how they flash as the engine is turned over.

Have you had any water get into the cab on the passenger side, in particular in the past? If so, go back and look at any and all grounds in that area.

If water was likely to drip onto harnesses; follow to the lowest point, and back up the other side, checking every connector along the way

You can also make leads to extend relays out of the fuse box for testing while live...

Intermittent issues suuuuuuuuck! Be patient and orderly in your diagnostics, and you'll figure it out.

Good luck.

 

Based on crank no start, I’d rule out battery, battery cables, starter as having problems. Cleaning the battery terminals and posts, checking cables for good continuity never hurts

Yes intermittent issues can be difficult to pinpoint. Any recent maintenance performed? Check for a loose connector somewhere. Shoot some electrical cleaner and blow clean. Maf, throttle body, air filter are all clean? Due for spark plugs? Mileage? The urd fuel pump kit might solve the problem.

Checking if the injectors are firing is a good idea. There’s a wand type of tester that might be less a pain than hooking up noids.

Trying to find a bad ground wire somewhere is a good idea. I found a ground wire bolt hole with blast media in the bolt hole so the bolt wouldn’t tighten all the way. It caused intermittent no start and stalling when hitting a bump.

 

Same, my 2010 single cab isn't a chip key

 

Thanks for all the help and advice! So far I've taken the bed off and started cleaning all the dirt off of the fuel tank around the pump and filler neck...

Another source recommended that I look into the canister purge valve that it may be sticking open. Does anyone know where that would be located on the 2TR-FE? If it makes a difference, since I know some EVAP systems are different here, I'm located in California

 

If the purge valve wasn't closing you should be getting a p043e p043f p02401 p2402 p2419 evap leak trouble codes from the pressurized self test.

If you don't have any of those set or pending I doubt it's an evap issue.

For what it's worth when I was having those codes I did not have any other drivability or function issues.

The purge valve is also not something that you can clean or maintenance, it's put together and then sealed with a band clamp there's no way to get into it without destroying it.

The purge valve is bolted to the charcoal canister with three 10 mm bolts and the charcoal canister is bolted to the frame crossmember in front of the spare tire on top underneath the bed.

It cannot be removed without removing (or at least loosening and lifting) the bed or cutting the reinforcement ribs of the bed unless you have a half inch body lift or greater.


This bastard up here:


Looks like this removed:



And what's going on when they fail:



Approximately $300 part from the dealer, dealer charges like $1000 to change it,

Cost me the part and 30 minutes.

 

Yeah I've already run the obd scanner and no codes, also didn't have any problems starting it today but it wasn't as hot as it's been lately so that could have something to do with it. Man these intermittent issues are a pain! I guess I'm gonna just go with the URD pump kit and see if that makes any difference. Until then, I think I've pretty much covered everything.

 

The purge valve (Vacuum Switching Valve) is actually on the engine, your thinking of the vent valve (refueling valve) it is integrated into the charcoal canister/leak detection pump.

 

Good catch.

 

What if... And I am just throwing this out there because, I don't know.
Would The fuel line develop enough pressure if the vacuum regulator on the return side of the fuel rail was stuck open?

@thrasherpass mentioned having the bed off and cleaning up before opening the tank. When you unplug everything look at the connectors for corrosion.

If you find any bad,. Take out your phone and zoom in on the face and you should see a number.

That number will get you started on its repair path.

The number is stupid small on the connector body, but it's there. When you find it, you'll be like wtf! It's that small.

Good luck.

 

I know this doesn’t help you with your problem.
But it did take a picture for those that are curious. And for futon reference.

You are correct, there does seem to be some differences.
Both keys are from 2nd Gen trucks.
Chipped on Top
Non-Chipped on Bottom

 

Yeah that's the one I was after on the injector rail, already checked it and it's not stuck open, and doesn't appear to be gummed up or anything

 

Thank you for this. I knew I wasn't crazy

 

Yes you are. . We all have our idiosyncrasies, that to some may seem crazy. LOL

 

I reject your reality and substitute my own.