Intro to fitting 35s (< 3" Lifts for those that wheel and love alignments)

Did you ever get this resolved?

 

With almost 5 degrees of caster, like we all said above, its the UCAs that are adding unneeded caster and pushing his tires backwards to the cab and causing the rubbing. Replacing the UCAs with something that reduces caster from up top would push the tire forward and not rub (or as much).

 

Hey guys I am hoping you are able to help me out, for some background- I've done a pretty aggressive CMC with pinch weld beat in and plastics cut, also running a high clearance front bumper, with SPC LR UCA (EDIT: also have OME suspension). I recently put on some 35s (more like 34.6), and took my truck to an alignment shop after I got the tires put on, the tech was unable to get a good alignment, and after adjusting camber with my UCA on setting A I'm rubbing pretty heavily on the CMC. What is the answer to my rubbing? More lift? Aftermarket LCA? Thanks for your help- Here's the specs post alignment:

 

Prob going to try what this guy suggested, I think my UCAs were confusing the tech, he had me come back there and show him how to adjust, didn't charge me for anything so that was cool.

 

If your tech doesn’t understand how the SPC Ball joints work, you should go somewhere else.

 

Havent checked in for a long time. Still running 315/70-17s but on to my 3rd different wheel. RRW RR6-H 17x8.5 -25. Last weekend finished my JDFab install thanks to @snowsk8air2 (also installed 700lb springs and revalved my Kings because my truck is a fat pig) and was able to take the truck on Broken Arrow in Sedona today. I haven't done any additional trimming lately and had almost zero rubbing. Only on full lock left turns climbing or dropping a shelf/ledge. I think it might have been rubbing on a bent up piece of wheelwell liner thats still in place. Its really nice to be able to drive normally and even wheel some pretty decent obstacles with essentially no rubbing. It was quite an expensive route to get there and I still need to trim more.

Because of my Camburg UCAs I have 8 degrees of caster that cant be "aligned" out. Im not sure if I will get the JDFab UCAs that have a slightly different offset to accommodate the subframe and get my caster back to ~4 degrees. This will definitely give me more clearance at the firewall but I might just go mid travel and 37s instead hahaha.

edit: forgot to mention its SO EFFING NICE to be able to turn the steering wheel lock to lock, offroad and actually drive the truck forward and reverse without rubbing





Thats a lot of room!



Rando pic from Broken Arrow because Sedona is insanely beautiful. Parking spot is uneven, my rear does not sit that high hahaha.

 

Finally said screw it and slapped on the 35s now.

 

I would probably have to drive 2+ hours for one that does, sucks but it is what it is.

 

Call around and ask if they are familiar with adjusting SPC’s. If not, these directions may help your alignment tech get them dialed in for you and get your clearance where you need it.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-skinny-on-skinny-tires.529656/page-240#post-26792472

 

Thanks, went to a place that specializes in alignments, dude fixed me up proper, no more rubbing, grinding etc at all, shit is nice. I had to drive for it but it was worth. Now I need a regear lmao.

 

@JoeCOVA inwas planning to order the ECGS bushing but their video says something about an ARB front locker may solve it as well? I was planning to regear and add an ARB front locker fairly quickly after lifting the truck. Does it make sense to leave the bushing for the shop to do my regear and locker?

 

I believe front lockers utilize a bushing which is why it may be resolved with one.

 

Forgot to post in here when i slapped my 35's on a couple of months ago. I finally have the whole thing dialed in and don't rub anywhere on or off road. Im running 16X8 -12 4 inches of backspacing wheels. 315 75 16 tires. Ive got the caster maxed out on the LCA. Ive got the SPC arms set to +4. This gave me a good amount of clearance at the cab mount and with this alone it was good for street driving. I took it to the alignment shop and told them to just set toe and camber and they got it spot on. If your just street driving you should be good to go with no extra modifications. But going off road its a different ball game that takes some extra massaging. First i did a more aggressive CMC and angled the cab mount further back. helped with getting it away from the cab mount. This is actually needed for on road as well my bad lol. But the i also to about 2.25 inches off the flare. Lastly i cycled the suspension and found where it was rubbing and beat that part in with a hammer on the fire wall. Took it off road and full flexed and after the first couple of ruts what was left self clearance and now 0 rub! SPC really the only way if your not wanting to cut the whole sub frame or cut and tub fenders for other arms.

CMC Redo







Driver before and after alignment adjustments.






Passenger Before and after













Fenders cut




flex testing





No rub even turning in rut! Suspension full flexed!!

 

I had my lowers maxed out before the alignment and I get my truck back to my cam straight up, what the crap

 

I'm I a similar boat - "I'll take the extra caster - please get the camber as good as possible and set the toe" - and it comes back with the bottoms shoved forward. From a 4x4 shop nonetheless. I'd love 2 hours with an alignment rack. Switching back to my garage alignment that drove pretty damn well. I wanted to get a true alignment just to see. Unfortunately I had some other work done so the 'before' measurements were after that work. I think I'm going to re-do the DIY alignment and maybe take it somewhere simply to get the numbers ... and make adjustments from that point. Or finally just cut out the fender metal and tub it slightly and be done with it. FWIW mine rubs the fender well when reversing while turning out of my driveway and while off-roading with a moderate turn while flexing. It's a great mall crawler ... but the rubbing while wheeling is getting old.

 

Where do you guys go to get these alignments? Went to a true 4x4 shop this morning who told me I can’t just max out the LCAs and still be in alignment, even with SPCs

 

Yeah truly you can't fit true 35s with zero rubbing unless you tub or space the bump. My 35s skim my hammered firewall under bushing deflection, but they really rub along the whole inner fenderwell. That is at full full bump, where my shock is bottomed out and the Uca is also bottomed out on the inner fenderwell.

 

Yeah it's kind've a joke most places, unless you personally know someone at a shop. I just do tape measure alignments and call it good since I don't want to deal with any shops, especially here in Seattle where anything other than a Tesla is overwhelming to them. Also am constantly bumping mine slightly out of alignment and replacing inner tie rods once a month, so I would be a frequent flyer if I cared about perfect numbers.

 

That guy doesn't make sense. Yea it won't be to Toyota's factory numbers, but that's the whole point of the spc's.

 

I work with Network Alignment in Phoenix and they listen. I had to slightly reduce the caster on the driver side at the LCA to get things where I wanted but I don’t rub at full stuff and lock on 35x10.5R17’s. I made room with just a big hammer and I’m not limiting up-travel with bump spacers. The firewall is very thin and easy to move for sure. It’s doable but takes effort.