Intro to fitting 35s (< 3" Lifts for those that wheel and love alignments)

No, you can get tubular heim joint uca's that also do the same as SPC's but require some more time an effort to align.

 

I was just looking at the new UCAs (heim) from accutune and they say that their ucas also allows for the tire to be pushed foward.

 

heimed versions you can move where ever you want

 

do most people use SPC over heims UCA purely due to cost then?

 

No, You have to remove heim uca's to adjust them.

 

Not all of them. Some heims can be adjusted on the vehicle.

Edit: for example
https://www.iconvehicledynamics.com/accessory/14635/icon-accessories-05-up-tacoma-billet-uca-dj-kit/

 

No. Heims are meant for extreme use (racing). You'll get a lot more "road feel", as heims will transfer more of the forces to the frame, as there's no bushings to absorb the forces.

See this video... skip to 8:15 for your specific question. However, the whole video is full of great info.

https://youtu.be/d4A3QGLEpTQ

 

Mid Atlantic Off-roading also has some that are billet instead of tubular but are adjustable on vehicle as well.
https://midatlanticoffroading.com/products/send-it-suspension-billet-upper-control-arms-05-tacoma

 

cost and better for a daily drive due to the sealed balljoint. imo virtually nobody needs the strength of heims (id argue it isnt stronger at all over the bushing setup) on a stock width truck. just spending extra money for bling. id be willing to bet many other things would break before a newer forged spc arm would.

 

I usually laugh when people spend big money on billet upper control arms, but dont double sheer the mount. Your more likely to bend the bolt than do damage to an upper arm, especially when on a heimed setup.

 

I had a set of spc’s with bad ball joints and failed X-axis bushings in under 20k miles. They replaced them under warranty but I’d rather not replace uca’s every year.

 

I’m finally in the club. 315 75 r16 Patagonias are on around 16x8 0os SCS F5s, lifted 3 in the front 2 in the rear lift, TC UCAs, warfab tie Rod sleeves, all installed yesterday. After a quick lap around the block when I finished, some slight rub on the CMC full lock, and when flexing a bit on turns. Going to get an alignment today and ask to push caster as far fwd as possible. Wish me luck guys, real test will be a big trip up to bald mountain for a poker run in September.

 

Alignment took care of any rub on the CMC(except full lock reverse, but I figure thats gonna require a relocate which isn’t on the table for now). Rubbing on my sway bar of all places, roughly where I have circled. happens when turning and have slight articulation. damn! Wonder how I can solve this one, I’m hoping to keep the sway bar at least for now. I’m running 4.5 bs 16” wheels, I don’t touch the UCA.

 

Thanks to this forum I have successfully fit 35s. Going for another alignment to push the tire further forward since my lower cam tabs are all in neutral positions. I guess my fault for not having the larger tires on the truck just telling them I want maximum clearance wasn’t enough even for a dedicated Toyota off-road shop in Colorado. Oh well just money.

-12 offset rrw RR-7h
Falken wildpeak at3w 315/70r17
Fox PES DSC 2” lift
Deaver u402 stage 1

 

What UCA are you running?

 

SPC. I think the next alignment should get me to stop rubbing the cab mount and pinch weld on the driver side. It doesn’t rub under slow wheeling on the passenger side currently. These tires are about 34.5” but they’re wide at 12.7”. So wider than a 35x12.5 but maybe .1” shorter or so depending on the tire

 

Was there ever a consensus on the 16x8 rim with the least fitting issues off the bat? I read through most of the thread and I see SCS F5's (presumably +0 / 4.5" BS?) and SCS RAY10's (-12 / 4" BS)?

I suppose anything that sits closer to 4" backspacing is kosher at this point?

 

I’m at 4.25” backspacing. I wouldn’t go any more than that since I’m REALLY close to the SPC UCA as it is. But I love how it fits rn. I rub my frame slightly at full lock but from what I hear that’s always an issue. I’m going for an alignment in the morning and advantage of low offset is my LCA are in neutral positions and my pssenger tire didn’t rub at all off-road. Once I move the tire forward I should have much more clearance due to decreased scrub radius. So I think 4.25”-4” is perfect but everyone’s opinion is different

 

Here’s my final alignment. Plz roast it to know if I can trust this shop. They didn’t understand how more caster reduces clearance but I’m still happy with the clearance improvements so far just based on looking at it. Maybe there’s more to be had

SPCs in position A. I don’t want to run D/E because the ball joint they pushed almost all the way in and the rubber boot barely touches my springs at full droop. They said that’s normal for SPCs and big springs like on fox shocks



Front driver


Rear driver


Edit: looks like my SPCs are running +4 caster so I’m at 5.2/5.5 caster which will reduce clearance to my cab mount chop some but maybe negligibly so. Is that too much caster to run? Drives fine but wondering if things end up weaker or something

 

that's not how caster works. The caster your truck is running is what the alignment sheet shows. They should rotate the front driver side bolt 45 degrees clockwise so the bolt is in the 9 o'clock position. Then use the upper spc ball joint to get the caster number and camber number that you want.

edit. after looking at your pictures further you are running the balljoint in position G which means it and the uca are adding 0 caster and the only thing it is doing is adjusting camber. Take it back or take it somewhere else and have them fix it, When I have done alignments on SPC uppers I shoot for 4 degrees caster and I prefer how the trucks drive with a little negative camber. I like -.5 degrees camber and .04 toe per side. Have them start by rotating the front control arm cam. Then you have to redo the caster swing and start monkeying around with the uppers, will likely land with the uppers in position b or c. By turning the front cam it will also force them to pull the ball joint out and away from the spring which will create additional room between the ball joint and the springs.

https://www.spcalignment.com/instructions/25470-INS_WEB.pdf