Intro to fitting 35s (< 3" Lifts for those that wheel and love alignments)

I don’t know the specific part number but you may be able to find a suitable replacement on McMaster

 

How do you have the spc's set? I'm installing some on mine and cranking the wheel forward but I'm rubbing on my factory uca with 315/75r16s and 0mm 4.5" BS F5s. I'd like to go position F or G but am I still gonna rub even at D? Not that it's the end of the world I have spacers I'm willing to throw on but if I can avoid that I'd like to

 

Pretty sure the only fix for that is narrower tires or negative offset wheels (or spacer)

 

Spacers it is, at least they look good lol

 

They will help sling mud down the side your truck too

 

The mud already on it should help cover it up

 

Can’t have too much

 

Found someone who posted the specs with all the plugs for our trucks and saved the file because it gave all the dimensions of the plugs. Great call on McMaster

 

So I got a realignment and it doesn't hit the firewall anymore. Alignment specs pretty similiar to yours. Now when turning right at full lock, the tire hits the driver side sway bar and the passenger side frame. Do you have any other issues with rubbing after an alignment? Any suggestions? Truck shop said to get new wheels but that sounds like an expensive fix for now.

 

My lift kit required a sway bar relocation, which pushed it forward a tiny bit. You could also run sans sway bar, but it could be less stable at highway speeds. Tinker's Advernture has a great video on sway bar pros and cons. I don't hit the firewall but with the caster forward I slightly run the front bumper skirt. Pure laziness as to why I haven't trimmed it more.

 

You need to go w/ more negative offset on the wheels or spacers like you mentioned.

 

I know this is ancient but I actually can't see you bring it up again elsewhere in the thread and you never added it into the OP -- are you still running super bumps to limit uptravel?

I feel like that's a pretty important criteria for fit.

 

It was never needed for a 35 as the factory bump was sufficient to limit rubbing. If you were to go to a 37 then I could see additional tire rub requiring either bumps or trimming.

On the rear I used the Archive flip kit with low profile bumps but that was due to having a shock relocation in the rear.

 

Yep, that's what I figured. But reading the thread in order (even though those comments are 3 year old) made it sound like you were runnin' 'em, so thought I'd check.

 

I was under the impression that 35’s hit the top of the wheel well with stock bump stops. If that’s not true, fitting 35’s is a lot easier than I thought.

 

35’s definitely hit the inner fender with stock bumps. You have to hammer the pinch weld, firewall and inner fenders plus CMC. Alignment plays a massive role as well. It helps to have alignment adjustment from both the upper and lower control arms. It’s not that bad though and worth it.

 

I understand the firewall and cab mount issue, but what I am referring to is the top of the wheel well.

 

Yes, that’s called the inner fender. The wheel well is the general area. Also kiss your fender liners goodbye.

 

Yes but only the fender liner, the plastic piece that surrounds the inside of the wheel well. Molding the liner back closer to the well itself is enough.

 

I have never rubbed the upper inner fender and have been running the factory fender liners for the past 4 years with 35s.

The only part of the fender I had to modify was simply heat molding around the bottom rear and up the pinch weld area.