Introducing Timberleaf Trailers - Handmade Teardrop Trailers from CO

Shouldn't be, provided it's closed and latched properly. It's got a full dust/water seal around the perimeter of the hatch. The hinge on top is a hurricane hinge, which doubles back over itself to prevent water and dust from getting through it.

It's kind of fun closing it, because you hear a huge WOOSH of air escape right as it closes, sounds similar to when you shut a really big freezer door or something. My parents have been using the orange one throughout the summer and typically drive it down a few miles of dirt road each time to get into camp and haven't had any issues with dust.

 

These teardrops are so awesome! I've been lusting over them since your family started producing them. Glad you're a Toyota guy!

 

Looks great! Unfortunately outside my "camping" budget at the moment, but my recommendation: 6-lug axles, so I can match my Tacoma truck wheels.

 

Thanks dude!

we can wheel/bolt pattern match. We've done a handful of JK wheel matching which typically requires a custom adapter for some weird details about jeep wheels. However 6x5.5 is pretty easy. Only weird thing is that if you want to use a Toyota OEM wheel, they use mag seat lug nuts which are only available in 12mm thread pitch, so either an adapter is needed, or studs pressed out and replaced.

I'm running FJ 17" steelies on my new trailer, and used 4Runner 5 star wheels on my first trailer.... Which is how I discovered the wheel stud/very specific lug nut thing.

 

Nice! I’m definitely doing the 17” Toyota steelies if I order a teardrop. I can order an Off Road package with 6x5.5 and 12mm studs, right? Maybe even some 265/70/17 tires to match my truck?!

Does it come with a full size Off Road spare?

 

It does not include full size offroad spare, typically when we wheel match to the customer's rig their intention is to only carry one spare for the tow rig and trailer. I'm currently in development of a tongue mounted tire mount that we will offer that can accommodate a full size offroad spare, but likely would be an option that eliminates the ability to have a tongue storage box. A matching spare would be an additional charge along with the mount.

I considered, on my personal trailer, using a Wilco hitchgate solo off the back, but there's concern of how that weight back there would affect handling... Plus having to deal with a tire carrier every time you get into the kitchen would be frustrating.

We can totally accommodate the wheel and tire matching! Going forward what I'm leaning toward rather than pressing out studs is running wheel adapters, TBH I feel that it's a safer solution given how the trailer brakes function in regard to where the studs insert. If you use the steel wheels, you can actually use standard acorn nuts as opposed to the special mag seat ones for the aluminum wheels.

 

Could you elaborate on how swapping out the studs is less safe than running wheel adapters? In relation to trailer brakes?

 

I'll do my best to describe it...

Electric brakes on trailers are activated my an electromagnet that is effectively a secondary brake pad inside the drum. When you apply brakes in the vehicle with a brake controller, voltage in a range of 12v or less is sent to the magnet... Braking strength is dependant on the power the magnet receives (more power = greater grab). The surface of the magnet is similar to a brake pad, this allows the magnet to drag against a machined vertical face within the drum (it's kind of like half of a disc brake, and instead of a caliper, it's a magnet/pad in one).

As I mentioned earlier this magnet is a secondary "pad", it doesn't provide the actual stopping power. When the magnet drags on this surface, it rotates a mechanical arm inside the drum assembly that pushes the shoes outward to provide your stopping power.

The studs pressed through the vertical surface against which the magnet needs to be able to drag against needs to be smooth like a brake rotor. While it is possible to press in 12mm studs, I tend to feel that it is safer to use an adapter to accomplish this rather than potentially end up with a stud that has a thicker head and that may protrude into the magnet's surface, if this were to happen the brakes would lock up.

Generally speaking I feel it's less liability to use adapters than to press in studs. Fwiw we've used adapters fairly often on wheel matches with success. We use Spidertrax or other US made adapters, occasionally custom adapters when needed (had a set of LR4 wheels once, those have 14mm studs and a different bolt pattern, had to order custom adapters to go from 1/2" trailer studs to 14mm wheel, and change pattern). Personally I've had Spidertrax adapters on all of my 4x4s over the years and never had an issue, proper installation is key to success with them.

Hopefully that all makes sense!

Trailer drum



Brake hub showing the surface the magnet grabs.