IronMan 4x4 2" lift!

JohnnyWayne · Feb 26, 2015

BabyTaco said: ↑

^That's ironman quality for ya. My coils were completly rusted when I took them off the truck.
Click to expand...

Yup that's what I was afraid of....

boatbuilder · Feb 26, 2015

Sounds like others have had the same paint issues as I have. Mine have been on a little less than a year and the paint is about 1/2 flaked off and they are rusting. If they would either paint them with Imron or tell the customer that the paint sucks and to paint them themselves THAT would be helpful. I also installed UCA's and had them painted locally and they worked out fine. And yes, I could take it all apart and paint them. My answer............REALLY?

Haslefre · Feb 26, 2015

I had paint issues on my coils. They will warranty them for you. They have changed who their powder coater is in Australia from what I understand, and have went to a different method of treating and prepping the coils.

I have some slight surface rust on my shocks, but it is minimum. We don't use salt over here in Seattle...

JohnnyWayne · Feb 26, 2015

Wow would be nice to get this resolved under warranty - I shall further endeavor to facilitate promptly!

Haslefre · Feb 26, 2015

JohnnyWayne said: ↑

Wow would be nice to get this resolved under warranty - I shall further endeavor to facilitate promptly!
Click to expand...

http://www.ironman4x4america.com/

Ironman 4x4 America
2700 E 9th St , STE 400
Newberg, Oregon 97132

971-264-9016

info@ironman4x4america.com

Haslefre · Feb 26, 2015

Wait, you are in Florida... hold on...

You need to read this.
(For sales within Florida or Puerto Rico, Please contact Ironman 4x4 Florida at "info@ironman4x4fl.com")

BabyTaco · Feb 26, 2015

JohnnyWayne said: ↑

Wow would be nice to get this resolved under warranty - I shall further endeavor to facilitate promptly!
Click to expand...

I contacted them and there was good customer service but after sending my invoice showing purchase all communication was dropped. They said they were going to take care of it (whatever that means) but haven't heard a word as to how to proceed. I sent an additional email asking what is going on but still haven't got a response to that.

BabyTaco · Feb 26, 2015

Heres a few pictures of how awesome they held up

Haslefre · Feb 26, 2015

They have been having a bunch of issues lately at the shop. I talked to Mark (owner of the US stuff) and he said that because of the port slowdowns and the lack of inventory coming in, they had to cut hours. With the cut hours, a few of their employees decided to find different work.

It's not an excuse for them, just letting you know what I know.

BabyTaco · Feb 26, 2015

My follow up email was sent Feb 9th and I havent heard from them since 28th of Jan.

Haslefre · Feb 26, 2015

You'd be amazed at how much time I spent trying to track these guys down myself... Phone calls all over the place.

hpvds · Feb 26, 2015

BabyTaco said: ↑

Heres a few pictures of how awesome they held up

Click to expand...

BabyTaco, what are you running now?

Also, Ironman4x4 with regards to the selection of steel over aluminum, what type of long term/accelerated environmental testing have these shocks been put through and are you able to divulge how they held up? And if so what did this include, were they subjected to just typica Australian conditions or were they also subjected to high salt environments such as what we get on the east coast in the USA in winter.

What type of coating is used -- is it a powder coat or more of an industrial epoxy or enamel?

BabyTaco · Feb 26, 2015

I have some ORI's in the front now and Ironman in the rear still.

jberry813 · Feb 26, 2015

Ironman 4x4 said: ↑

The body is 65-72mm (would make it 2.83 inches in imperial) and the piston 45mm, with a 20mm piston rod.

You can tune these shocks. We offer shim stacks that you can use ideally to just re-build, but using them you can tune them. We did so on a race truck of one of our staff members in our Australian office to match his needs. It's not something that we advertise though as it isn't something that any man and his dog should be doing in their garage. There should be a solid knowledge and understanding of the implications of what they are doing. It would also cause issues with warranty.

When doing the adjustments for the race truck, we were running the shock on the shock dyno after every variation we made.

Our shocks are valved to match the spring rates of our coil springs. Ideally we sell our suspension as kits, as they are a full solution rather than individual components. They are designed to work together to provide the best performance.

Yes, you are correct as if you were sensitive enough to your suspension to want even more fine tuning to those more specific compression and rebound points it's not going to be the perfect match for every permutation of vehicle kitout, but it'll be a very good and a more than comfortable solution for those that aren't looking for a tailored shock (where the price would quickly creep up). These as I said are an off the shelf product, that is a direct bolt in replacement. There do need to be some compromises somewhere. But as stated, if you did decide you wanted to make minor adjustments, the possibilities are there.

Point taken that yes you can get shocks with a 3mm wall. But a lot of them are aluminium not steel (which isn't as strong) and again many of those aren't direct bolt in replacements (you need to mount remote reservoirs etc). And if I didn't mention it above. They are re-buildable. So vs you OME, and other similar type shocks, these are an investment that can be freshened up. We sell re-build kits that'll allow you to keep them running as new. I'm not quite sure when they will be over there (I'd need to look into it when I'm in the office - it's midnight here at the moment).

They are a spin weld for the friction weld. And then a 360 degree robot weld then follows to re-enforce that weld and ensure ideal penetration is achieved.

As for the bushings (they are rubber) I don't know why the choice. I'd have to ask the designer of them - out suspension manager. Unfortunately he's in South Africa for a couple weeks, but if you can hold off on that I'd be more than happy to get you an answer.

Limited amount of shock oil? They use about 750mm of oil, which is more than you'll see in almost and twin tube shocks. Preventing shock fade is just a matter of keeping the oil below a certain temperature. Generally around 115-125 degrees centegrade is where we start to see shock fade start to happen. Though our extensive testing, the twin tube foam cell design allows for maximum oil contact on the exterior of the shock, allowing more efficient thermal dynamics and heat dispersion, coupled by the larger surface area as a result of the larger bodied shock and the larger quantity of oil, we've found it very, very difficult to get it near that temperature in real world conditions.

We did a trip through the Fink Desert Race Track and the Simpson desert with the intention of trying to get these shocks as hot as we physically could, our standard foam cell shocks we managed to get to 120 degrees and they were starting to suffer from fade (in a Nissan GU Patrol). But we really struggled to get the foam cell pros beyond 85 degrees. I'll note that this was in 40-48 degree weather in the middle of the Australian desert. (we used heat probes to measure the temperature and get accurate readings. ^^^p,s, all the above temperatures are in centigrade.

The times that we did find the shocks heating up the most wasn't with the high speed driving over corrugations. The air movement assisted with keeping them cool. Instead it was the extended dulations at slow speeds which ensured the shocks were doing full extended and compression cycles regularly without a lot of airflow.

Yes they are re-buildable. But we recommend getting it done by a professional. This isn't something that should be a backyard job. But have a talk to your local dealer. They'll have a better understanding of the local processes than I will.

I don't take any of these questions as criticism at all mate. I love the fact you are wanting to know more and questioning it! It's the way you learn things!

I don't know what sort of price tag you guys are usually looking at for shocks over there (my naivete has finally kicked in, but I'm taking it that's your equivalent pricing for other products like the OME and the Bilsteins?)

I hope that I've answered some of those questions! Let me know if you have any more for me!

Cheers,

Matt
Ironman 4x4 Australia
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Thanks Matt!!! I appreciate the late night response and that certainly adds a great amount of color.

While I agree that 750ml is more than a typical twin tube, I was making comparisons to my current setup. My fronts hold on the order of 1000ml (and I have two pairs up front) and the rears about 1750ml. I realize this is an apples to oranges comparison, but the reason I mention it is I regularly hit 100-125* C (at least according to my heat gun). Had one particuarlly hot day down in the san diego deserts with a lot of...umm..."spirited driving" and clipped 150* C (and consequently broke down the oil completely). Obviously this is what has dictated my concern about backyard rebuild-ability. So if you need someone to boil your shocks...I'm your man!

As a more like-for-like comparison, I have 5100's on my Tundra and my wife's 4Runner. A set of adjustable bilstein coilovers (spanner adjustment) are on the order of $600. Not completely like for like obviously, as they are mono-tubes. Plane jane hight adjustable 5100's (using the c-clip to adjust ride height) with your choice of eibach springs are on the order of $350. From what I've seen so far, I wouldn't classify the Ironman shocks in the same class. There are features of the ironman's that definitely outshine the Bistein's. But once I get into a manufacture-only maintenance and tuning, for me it brings the "value" of the shock down. I realize I'm not like the average joe that wants to "set it and forget it" when it comes to shocks, so take my opinion as a grain of salt.

For a non-like for like comparison, my King coilovers cost me $1000. And that's a 2.5" shock with a remote resi, 3 mil steel shock body, 7/8" hard chromed shaft, spherical bearings, and full rebuild and revalve capabilities in my garage with no special tools other than a nitrogen tank/regulator. Now this was just the coilvoer. The top hat to fit the coil bucket was not included, so there's certainly an additional cost (or time/materials from the fabricator) in addition to the coilover itself.

Thanks again for your help Matt. Very informative and appreciated.

JohnnyWayne · Feb 26, 2015

BabyTaco said: ↑

Heres a few pictures of how awesome they held up

Click to expand...

Mine are well on the way to that stage it appears, thanks for the pics BabyTaco...

Sent Matt from IronMan a pm and will see what happens from there :/

BabyTaco · Feb 26, 2015

Yeah that's a good idea. Hopefully they set you straight. I enjoyed the kit and it did well for the price. I had few complaints and the major one being rust. Hopefully they took more care in the paint on those newer shocks they are offering.

CowboyTaco · Mar 2, 2015

Does anyone know the specs on the 12744GR rear shocks? I tried searching, but haven't found much.

Specifically, I want to know the max extended length and collapsed length.

AlanLoshbaugh · Mar 2, 2015

these guys will know:

http://www.ironman4x4america.com/t-contact.aspx

Haslefre · Mar 3, 2015

So, the Foam Cell Pro's are on. I can tell you these are beefy as fuck, but so easy to install! My ride is night and day from the old set (probably because I had a bad shock). Adjusting so far hasn't been easy, but I also don't have a spanner wrench. I am in the process of getting one, and hopefully adjusting them up to level out my truck. I also added LR UCA's when I installed them. I just need to get them to proper height, new tires, and an alignment and I'll be set.

AlanLoshbaugh · Mar 3, 2015

Looks good!
I've had the foam cells on both my Tacoma's, but, not the adjustable ones like that.

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