Is 135k too late to do a transmission flush?

So long story short, I got the truck with 130k on it. The tranny seems to be alright. 3-4 gear is a bit more noticeable, but it’s not super hard.

The reason I’m contemplating changing it now is because I get some light shudder when accelerating uphill. It’s noticeable around 40MPH and going uphill (any grade). I had a shop look at it today and they said they can’t duplicate any of my problems. So, I figured a flush may just clean things up a bit. It’s almost like it starts to shudder and if I accelerate through it it’ll shift and life’s good lol. Again, this only happens with the uphill.

I have no service records so I guess I’m just a bit nervous to do it. This topic always gets conflicting opinions.

my question is this.. has anyone ever flushed around 130k? If so, what happened if anything.

2013 PreRunner. 5Speed auto 4.0 v6

sorry if this is the wrong place to post this.

 

When I buy a used vehicle, I change all of the fluids the first week end it's home. That way I know where I stand on maintenance.

 

So a drain and fill will only really get rid of 4qt tops.

An inline flush is ideal, but make sure its a reputable shop with synthetic fluid.

A pan drop is great too because you can a real idea of whats going on.

That said, don't worry, just do it. Fluid flushes don't fuck transmissions, worn transmissions fuck transmissions. A shudder usually doesn't get resolved with fluid, but its a critical part of maintenance so you should do it no matter what.

 

Here is what one of the member on here has to say about it.
He does this stuff for a living. He goes by gearcruncher here on the forum.
I’d tag him, but he seems like a busy guy. And he’s answered this question many times before.


Link to the below snippet : https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...th-pics-for-second-gen-4-liter-trucks.289913/



FLUSHING YOUR TRANSMISSION

I have serviced approx 4000 automatic transmissions . Does this make me a pro with the A750 series transmission in your Tacoma? NO , but I will try and explain
Years ago , most of the shifting was controlled by hydraulics or mechanical spool valves inside the valve body . When a customer brought their transmission into my transmission shop to have it flushed ( without removing the pan and filter ) there was a possibility of forcing the material from the bottom of the transmission pan into the valve body causing the spool valves to stick .This was very common with the popular GM 700R4 and Chrysler A670

As transmissions get newer , electrical solenoids and sensors are taking place of the many mechanical spool valves in the valve body . Solenoids now have a larger bore. In saying this , flushing a transmission can now be performed with less possibilities of hydraulic spool valves getting all gummed up and stuck.

If you plan to flush , get quotations from a shop that uses a flushing machine with the pan and filter removed .They are the best flushing machine to use because this machine guarantees the pan was removed before the flush was performed .
This method attaches the machine’s line out to the pump intake. The process transfers fluid through the vehicle and into a drainage pan, completely flushing the system. When cleared, new fluid is supplied to fill up the car. This process requires the complete removal of your pan and filter and a new filter and pan are installed at the end. This requires more time, a few extra quarts of fluid (around 20) and costs a bit more, but it is a much more complete, ideal procedure.

- See more at: http://www.transmissionrepaircostguide.com/what-is-a-transmission-flush/#sthash.YDlT9xaq.dpuf

Once the pan and filter have been removed , connect the flushing machine to the filter suction line in the valve body casting , start the vehicle and flush away .
Dont go to a shop that uses a cooling line flushing machine WITHOUT MAKING SURE THE PAN IS REMOVED FIRST .The guy telling you to flush without removing the pan first must have ESP ? How does he/she know the condition of your transmission . Remove the pan first regardless of miles.
All Flushing machines use your transmission pump to mix/force the old oil out and your engine has to be running to turn the transmission pump .Flushing machines will Never flush fluid backwards through a transmission or what some quick lube shops call reverse flushing / backflushing . Your transmission pump only turns one way so dont let those guys fool you into thinking they have a special super flushing machine .


Note: Some service centers use machines that add additional force to blast fluid and/or cleaning solution through the system. This is NEVER a good idea as this can damage seals and/or lodge sludge in places it shouldn’t be as mentioned above. - See more at: http://www.transmissionrepaircostguide.com/what-is-a-transmission-flush/#sthash.B2SaFB52.dpuf
If the truck was mine or a customer of mine , I would get that old stuff outta there .
There are 11 duties transmission fluid carries out inside the transmission .New fluid will help to prevent transmission failure .

1 - transmission fluid is the lifeblood of your transmission.
2- Trans fluid lubricates every part inside the transmission ...at minumum 1000 moving parts which is far more than what your engine has
3- Trans fluid is used to keep your transmission cool
4- Trans fluid is used to transfer hydraulic power
5- Trans fluid is used as a coupling device to transfer engine load to the gearing .
6- Trans fluid acts like a glue when automatic clutches are applied providing additional holding strength.
7- There are more , dont remember the rest hehehe

 

Will do!

any idea of why it shudders as I mentioned? I could’ve swore a possible TC, but the shop couldn’t duplicate it. I am also curious if TC shudder can be almost subtle? Like, noticeable but not super aggressive. Who knows.

 

Torque converter shudders are usually on really really light throttle and noticeable between shifts. Toyota struggled to keep its transmissions relevant and programmed them all to lock up as quickly and often as possible

Honestly its a little annoying but not transmission destroying.

 

First link in my reply above will tell you a lot of good information.
It even elaborates on the shudder also.
Yes, it’s a tremendous amount of info, but you should learn a lot from it.

 

ahh,

so do you think what I am expediting is normal? It’s nothing extreme or jaring. It’s just new to me.

 

Really value that!! I’ve already started reading. Thank you.

 

I had a weird vibe and it turned out I had a bad u joint. Just something to check

 

Drive it.

It's nothing to get 400,000 miles out of the factory fluid unless it has gotten too hot. If it got too hot the transmission is already toast and changing it now won't save it. But leaving the fluid in there right now will buy you some more time.

 

i did the DIY flush with I think around 100,000-120,000

 

I bought my 4-cyl auto with 96K on it. I got all of the fluids changed including the transmission flush rather soon therafter. At 137K, so far, so good.

 

I did a pan drop , and fill at 118 , best thing I could of done . The trans seems to shift better (smoother)

now I’m at 127ish and no issues

(5 sp auto trans )

the next time I’m doing a full flush and fill thru the cooler line

 

I remember reading threads on this topic where a fair number of people expressed concern that if the tranny fluid was changed too late in the mileage, the transmission would have “adapted” to any sludge or particulate build up, and a fluid flush would actually cause a decrease in performance. I never did understood that logic. Then again, I’m not a transmission mechanic.

 

My 2008 Sport 4x4 transmission started to slip a bit at around 120,000 miles under acceleration and I had the fluid drained and replaced by my local Toyota dealership. No other mechanic in town had teh equipment to do it. After it was changed everything worked as it should again, so I don't think doing it at your mileage really is a problem, but I'm not a mechanic.

 

I was a bit overkill when I bought my 15. At 30K I disconnected the return line and pumped about 3.5 qrts out. Shut it down, add 4 qrts, start it back up and pump 3.5 qrts. Repeated till I used up 12 qrts. Temp check mode and done. Used Maxlife ATF because it’s synthetic. 60K I did drain and fill. 80K I put a deeper pan and used Amsoil blue cap atf. I won’t touch it till 150K now.

 

Drain and refill the same amount.
Do that about four times.
Use Toyota WS Automatic Transmission fluid.

Peter @ Toyota Maintenance will have tips on checking here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dU0Za_BRnO8

Faye Hadley goes over changing fluid here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ej_6BZpK3gg

 

Everyone I have talked to including my Toyota dealer told me to shy away from flushes'. Even with my truck at only 70k miles. The 3 well known trans shops in my area recommended to drop the pan clean or replace the filter. clean everything and then add new fluid. It made my truck shift like it was brand new.

 

Both of my local dealers only do drain and fills. They both say that it’s not worth the risk of problem that can occur with a flush. Both said, You rarely ever have problems. But when you do, it’s never good for the customer or the dealership. They just don’t want to to take the risk.

There are 2 options;

1. Drain & Fill
2. Pan drop, new filter, and fill.