Is a Torque wrench absolutely necessary?

Lots of good experiences in this thread..but I don't think anyone answered why torqueing to spec. is so important...

Tightening into aluminum is obvious: spark plugs easily strip out aluminum heads when overtightened. Some people get the 'feel' and know when to stop when just when the compression washer is crushed, but if you rarely change plugs a torque wrench can be a life safer.

Some bolts should be tightened into the elastic range of the fastener (head bolts, for instance). That way they can stretch a little as the parts expand with heat, then tighten back up as they cool, without coming loose. Torqueing is the ONLY way to make sure that happens. Lots of of suspension bolts are the same way (and are frequently 'use once' bolts because they won't stretch the same way again, incidentally.)

Others need to have all the bolts in a pattern tightened as close to equal as possible, like wheel lug nuts to prevent warping brake rotors.

 

That's dangerous: you really need to know the design torque. The engineer sets the torque based on a lot of conditions, not just what the fastener can handle. Should look in the repair manual and use what the engineers spec'd that fastener for.

Just think of this hypothetical: using grade 8 fasteners in mounting flange for a plexiglass window; tighten them to spec and you'll crush the window. Less obvious would be if it was aluminum: you could squeeze the aluminum and it will cold flow around the fastener and work loose in service.

 

That's a good point. I've also noticed a lot of people don't use torque wrenches correctly: be sure to keep the handle centered on the pivot when using a beam torque wrench.

Also be sure to STOP when an adjustable torque wrench clicks! It makes me so mad when I see so-called shop "techs" just keep on grunting long after it clicked.

With any torque wrench, calculate a compensation factor for lateral extensions (like claw foots) that take the center of moment away from the center of the square socket attachment point.

Finally...beam wrenches are really rugged, as long as the read-out plate is intact just bend the pointer back to zero and go. But the adjustable tools lose calibration very easily, especially if dropped. VERY IMPORTANT to back off adjustment to zero to relieve pressure from the spring when storing them. I'd stick to beam-type wrenches for critical fasteners like head bolts and suspension bolts, unless you've calibrated your adjustable recently.

 

The bottom line is that if you are really going to do any work right you need a torque wrench. I have both a foot/lb and and inch/lb wrench. I'm a torque wrench Nazi and use them religiously on everything. There are many reasons as others have mentioned from making sure the component is fastened on tight enough to hold but not enough to cause stress and damage. I also believe in using anti-seize paste on most everything. This helps make sure the poundage is accurately being applied and so the the bolt/nut comes off when needed.

For sure use a torque wrench and anti-seize on lug nuts and spark plugs. I had an Acura that has wheel shimmy after a tire shop did a free rotation. I double checked the nuts with my torque wrench and found that a couple were under specs and others were over. I never removed the wheel but just loosened/tightened the nuts to specs. The shimmy went away completely. I would never even think about putting in steel spark plugs with crush washers in an aluminum head without my inch/lb wrench.

Also a torque wrench is usual longer and is a good substitute for needing a breaker bar in many cases.

One more thing. Always store the torque wrench with the setting on the lowest poundage. This keeps the spring inside the wrench accurate.

(Everyone is entitled to my opinion)

 

IMO its very important to have one in your tool box. It only takes a few seconds to get the right torque for your application. Do it right the first time.

 

How many of you put the torque wrench back to ZERO when you're done using it?

 

x3.............if ya dont.,...calibration will get outta whack.

 

x4 but that is also one reason I am going electronic. They recal every time you power on.

 

I agree with most of you post but the part quoted.

In a jam use whatever you find, but a breaker bar is less "springy" than the torque wrench and more effective than it.
My 1/2" breaker bars are next to the 2 TQ wrenches in the truck toolbox
Also a 24" long 1x1 square pipe is there too so it can add some leverage to the breaker bar when needed

 

I used my torque wrench on everything but the top three nuts on the front shock housing. It wouldn't fit (nb4thatswhatshesaid)

 

I changed out my spark plugs yesterday without the aid of a torque wrench.

Reading this thread makes me feel not so good.

 

Spark plugs are one of those 'more critical' items where you want to use a torque wrench. And that's simply because if you go too tight, you could mess up the threads in the block - and that's a major headache to fix.

Why not take the spark plugs out and put them back in with the proper torque (and anti-seize)? YOu're better off doing that now....then you are waiting till the next time you have to pull the plugs.

 

Antiseize I did use.

Man, the thought of going back to the plugs on the driver's side....*shudder*

 

i'm going to replace my spark plugs this weekend and somebuddy gave me a tip: 'you dont need a stinkin' torque wrench! just "finger tightened the plugs" then finish it off with a half turn with your 99cent ratchet. is he right? or is he really my buddy? pls advise.

 

That's kind of an old method of doing it. Honestly, I just changed the plugs in my motorcycle this way, finger tight and 1/4-1/3 turn with a wrench. Toyota gives you a torque spec, why not use it and do it right?

 

And you listened to them?



Do you really think that all fingers & hands are created equal? That all fingers and hands can 'finger tighten' at the same rate?
NOOOOOoooooooooooooooo

 

I don't put it to zero, I put it to the lowest setting which is 20 ft-lb. But yes I do this every single time.

 

whats the difference between the one that have a setting and the ones that have a needle and are a beam type torque wrench...the needle ones are way cheaper but im wondering if they wear out or something???