Is It Easier To Remove Lower Ball Joints To Replace Front Shocks?

If you have urethane bushings, yes (which I do), they should rotate freely. Stock rubber ones aren't free floating, at least from what I understand, and rely on the rubber to twist inside the bushing, which is why they have those holes in the rubber, to allow them to twist back and forth more easily.

They don't like to twist more the normal amount of wheel travel (like when installing longer travel/lifted shocks), as we've all found out by having to resort to using pry bars or bottle jacks etc... to force the A-arms down. If they were free floating, once you push down on the suspension, it should stay there, but it doesn't, it springs back a bit once you take the bottle jack/pry bar out.

That's why, when you do an IFS lift, you should set it to ride height, then loosen the cam bolts (if you haven't already), and allow that new (lower) A-arm position position to be "neutral" for the rubber bushings.

If you have poly bushings, none of this should matter. When I put my new Kings on, I just stepped on the rotor and put my weight on it and it moved down enough for the install.