Is it ever really necessary to install a lift?

I wasn't going to get a lift, but I got those tires with a 3.5" backspacing SCS F5 wheels.. I couldn't stand the rubbing.. so I got a 2.5 lift in the front and I'm glad I did. I say go for the bigger tires, and lift just right to fit them and you can call it a day.

 

As i said I’m page 1, you can fit a 255 85 R16 (33’s) on your stock OR.... you still can.


So don’t lift for 33’s just stick em on...


In order to run 35’s you’re talking serious lift, CMC, re-gear, serious wear and tear. Huge difference between 33” and 35” on a Tacoma. That’s a serious decision if it’s more than a pavement princess.

Anyway great thread i hope the OP has found his answer. Obviously we all need to make choices on our own wants and needs and personal budgets. I know i have.

 

I'm posting this just to provide you information not to sway your decision either way.
Last Friday morning I finished installing a 2" rear, 2 ½" front lift on my '17 OR.
I had put 33's on and was experiencing some very minor rubbing so I thought a lift was needed. After installing the lift the rubbing actually got worse. What fixed the rub issue was asking an alignment shop adjust my caster to move my tire forward about a ½". I probably could have done that before the lift and saved myself about $800 and 7 - 10 hours of work (lift cost).
Don't get me wrong, I like how my truck looks and drives (after the alignment). Here is a not-so-good picture of my Taco post lift and the list of items that went into the tire/wheel/lift mod.

255/80-17 COOPER DISCOVERER S/T MAXX 80R R17 TIRE LR E on Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007-2014 TRD Pro SEMA 17" MATTE GRAY Alloy Rims

Gen 3 Tacoma OR Suspension Components


Gen 2 TRD Pro Suspension
Shocks are MUCH beefier, heavier springs


2"

$190 Add-A-Leaf Kit for 1995-2023 Toyota Tacoma - 21.5" Short AAL Set with Isolator Pads and Square Bend U-Bolts

Add-A-Leaf Kit for the rear


As for the rubbing issue it's funny, some folks throw on 33's with no issues while other, like myself, have a bit of rubbing but this was fixed at an alignment shop.
Whatever you decide I hope you enjoy it as much as I'm enjoying mine.
Hope this helps you decide.

 

No sway bar on stock stuff would be scary

 

I've been told that unless you're going extended travel components the sway bar really isn't an issue like it is for Jeeps.

 

Off road it will be better but the stock suspension is soft and driving without sway bar would be really scary.

 

I used to drive without the sway bar attached go8mg way down the beach in my lifted 1st gen. it provided an Improved ride over ridges, ruts and other left to right unevenness. On the pavement I could not wait to re-attach it. The truck would lean like crazey and an emergency evasion maneuver would probably end up in a flop or roll.

 

I am putting 32’s on my offroad tomorrow.since I only have 3000miles,no lifting yet! I have a DCSB but on some of my terrain the longish wheel base can use a lift! Also will be adding armor in the future so the lift/suspension will help keep me balanced. I am still unsure about the 33’s even if I go as much as 3” for the lift! I have seen 32’s on a lift with armor and wheels that looks pretty good and videos of it being rather capable!

 

I'll take a washed out, late 30's soccer mom!

 

so if i were to put an aftermarket suspension on the vehicle, I should try to keep it as low as possible?

 

It is.

Not true. After 25 years of serious Jeep off roading, I can honestly say that most people that remove swaybars have entry level experience and don't run "Black" or hard core trails. I run Currie Anti-Rock Swaybars on my Jeep. They are much softer and provide greater stability when off camber. I could see it for mild to moderate wheeling, but NEVER on the street

Good example here; It is much, much worse when climbing a boulder strewn hill and getting into severe off camber situations.

 

Absolutely the best reply. 95% of folks that lift their trucks are urban warriors that see nothing more "off-road" than a speed bump or highway side beach/sand, and their entry/departure angles are dictated by driveways and entrances to parking lots. Changing the factory geometry of the drive train is bad, no matter which way you slice it. Sure it looks cool, but in reality, it's not practical, even for serious off-roading.

The only advantage I could think of is if operating in deep water, but what's 3" going to get you in the grand scheme of things? It's like the guys that install snorkels, where the deepest water they'll see is the sprinkler run-off in the curb in front of their house.

 

Haha Yes!

In theory, you are only lifting enough to clear your tires at full cycle.
I would also recommend cutting as much as you are comfortable with before lifting.

 

Snorkels are mainly to pull cleaner air in dry dusty desert environments. If you needed an air intake above the top of your windshield you would be experiencing other catastrophic problems in water....

Yes they reduce the chance of water in your air box but if you look most guys running snorkels are out west where it’s DUSTY....

Besides there is something to be said for driving a lifted truck with a snorkel around town as a daily driver, you never know when the Zombies will come and you’ll need that shit! Hahaha.

 

EXACTLY!!!

 

Air lift in rear. Adjustable and the way to go.
Perfect for any load.

 

You got your pictures backwards.

 

To me best mods is tires an sliders..wheel it if it doesn’t perform to what you want then upgrade. Your truck is super capable stock just enjoy it an keep the gas tank full with all the lift money you saved.

 

and so I do. Thanks for pointing that out.