Is it worth buying??? Old School Toyota

Unless I missed it OP did he say what happened to the truck that the frame broke? I would want to know myself. Wouldn't you?

 

Pics would be helpful. I would say as long as he does the repairs correctly, the whole frame could be welded and patched and it wouldn't pose a problem except if there are crumple zones in the frame. I wouldn't weld a crumple zone due to the fact that you would make it much stronger than it is supposed to be. I wouldn't hesitate to cut out bad sections of a frame and weld it. Have a read here for more knowledge: http://www.rensjeep.com/frame/repair2.html

 

I don't believe the frame broke. I believe the frame was just rusty and there ended up being a hole on the frame rail in which he patched.

 

If that's the deal then it may be a good one. I am thinking from an abuse perspective. Like it's been through hell and back. I hope you see the truth and wind up getting it-it looks like it could be a blast to own. Either way it'd be helpful if the guy was more upfront with the info.

 

Yea, to be honest, I'm really wanting it, but trying to make the smartest decision I can given the frame and what not. Just talking to the guy, he seemed to know what he was talking about in regards to the truck and being able to articulate the repairs he has done to it. I think if there is one good thing that has came out from me buying 13 vehicles, is my ability to judge whether or not someone is giving me the run around or being upfront with me.

The first thing the guy said to me when I called him on the phone was that he wanted to point out the frame has been welded and he went into detail about it. So I look at that as him being honest and upfront about it. However, that is not to say that there isn't anything wrong with it and that he is being completely truthful, because ya really never know.

But hopefully I'll get some more pics of it tomorrow and take it for a test drive and see how it rides and what not. Any idea what the parts are worth on it alone?

 

Not sure what the parts market looks like for the older ones-you don't see many at all and even in here I've seen a couple guys pushing parts for them to no avail.
Take someone with you or drive behind that truck while that guy drives it-check tracking (slant?) lean etc-does it creak when it climbs a driveway hump-crossmember weakness. Stuff like that.

 

Good info, Thanks!

 

I would buy it for a toy. Plenty of good parts on it for 2200


can we get pics of the welded frame? Honestly if it was a pro weld it will be stronger there than any other point on the frame (provided it was all painted and there is no rust)

 

I wouldn't touch it with a ten foot pole. It will be nothing but problems. First thing with buying used cars is to always buy stock, or damn near stock.

 

I would offer him the $2200--see what he says. Those tires and rims are worth some $$$. Take a hammer and tap the frame--you should know if it is rusted thru.
My 91 4x4 180K miles sold for $3500 two years ago--He did not even start it before he payed me.
Drive it!-that will tell you a lot.
You can find a newer bench seat pretty cheap--I paid $100.
Those trucks ARE TUFF-BUILT TO LAST.
I regret selling my 91 --frequently. Those are GREAT TRUCKS.

 

I'm going to go take another look at it today and see. Going to take a small hammer with me and tap the frame as you said. Hopefully have some pics of the weld by tonight as well!

 

Here is the weld mark. BEfore anyone comments, I have 11 other photos I took, so I will be posting them after this picture, I can't figure out how to post all the pics at once so bear with me.

 

that is all of them for now!

 

I don't know how much he ground down those welds but they look like complete shit...that was not a good weld job.

After seeing those pics...my original opinions stands, it would be a fun toy, especially to SAS. But as for a reliable practical DD I would not feel safe driving it honestly, the whole front suspension looks like a rusted mess covered in grease/shitty paint. Have you driven it? Taken some turns in it? Is it tight? The engine bay looks pretty clean though which is a plus. And the whole rear end/leafs (minus the shocks) look decent.

Depending on how long ago they were put in, these are the only reasons you would buy it. This list is a nice bundle of goodies:

5:29 Gears in front with a Detroit True Track
5:29 in Back with Detroit Gear Locker
Marlin Crawler Transfer Case 4:70 to 1 Low Lock Low Gear Set
9000 # Warn Winch
35" Tires

and for 2200 its a tough choice. Pretty tempting though.

 

I wasn't able to drive it today, just get the pics. Also, when you say "ground down the welds", what exactly do you mean and what does that do to the integrity/strength of the steel and weld?

 

Well sometimes you can grind down the bulbous welds to make them flat or flush, but it's not really necessary. It would not effect strength too much (unless you ground off the entire weld) as the strength is the melted bond between the 2 surfaces that have melted together to form one solid piece of metal. This is a good looking weld. It's continuous, consistent and has good over lap and coverage.

This weld looks nothing like the weld on the frame. Notice how the welds look like they are flat and smooth? If it had not been ground down even if it was a shit weld it would still have bumps and round spots, but it looks flat as a piece of paper (except where there is no weld material of course) Another thought just came to mind; what exactly were they trying to fix with that little piece of metal? If it was a hairline crack you wouldn't need a whole long narrow strip like that. I'm curious what was wrong. I'm thinking maybe a rust patch that was out of control?? Not sure at all on that one.

I mean when you compare the two it's disgusting how they let that weld on the frame pass like that. I don't really even see a continuous bead on the top except for the 2 edges. I would make it a priority to drive it and get a good feel of that front suspension. The frame welds can always be ground all the way down, cleaned and re welded by a friend with a mig welder that has some idea what they are doing.

 

I mean when you compare the two it's disgusting how they let that weld on the frame pass like that. I don't really even see a continuous bead on the top except for the 2 edges.[/QUOTE]

So in your opinion, no go?

 

Agreed.

Looks like some of my earliest welds with a cheapie Clarke 95E 110v stick welder.

 

For what it's worth I bought my 88 pick up for $2,000 bucks with a shot out steering system and shit backyard welds all over it. The reason I bought it was because I knew I was going to SAS it, the 22RE was rebuilt at 385k miles, and I knew it was going to be the rig that I am going to learn a lot on as far as my own backyard projects. Dig deep and really ask yourself if $2,800 bucks is what you are willing to part ways with to have an older vehicle that is going to need a lot of attention. (I know I'm going to hell for this next comment but...) the weld on that frame looks like a spatter job done by Michael J. Fox.

 

So in your opinion, no go?[/QUOTE]

It's still a tough one...but after seeing the pictures usually one section of the truck reflects on the rest of the vehicle. So if the whole front end looks like it's been dipped in the ocean and left to sit for 7 years, and some redneck with some aviators as a welding mask garage welded that frame with a gas less Lincon Electric I would guess that the rest of the vehicle, both parts seen and unseen are in rough shape and you will be spending more money fixing stuff than you will be modding and playing with it. I would go find a gem that's more money but in better condition. Unless you test drive it and something else convinces you based on some X factor you see in it once you take it for a test run.