Is it's not a bad wheel bearing with else could it be?

Hey guys I thought I had a bad wheel bearing in My 2007 Toyota tacoma 4x4. Might still be a bad wheel bearing but when I Jack it up and spin the front wheels they just sound like the brake pads are slightly rubbing on the rotors like normal.. One side might be a little louder than the other. But nothing like videos I've watched. When I'm driving the noise is loud and gets louder the faster I go but when I turn right it goes away... Any input would be much appreciated.

 

When driving it almost sounds like the truck is in higher rpms or something but that's not the case...

 

That's what happens with bad wheel bearings. You wont notice the noise when jacked up and spinning by hand because they are not under load.

 

Yeah bad wheel bearing

 

If you do have a bad bearing, a guy on here, @BamaToy1997 sells whole wheel bearing hub assemblies. Many people from here buy from him. I’ll definitely get some when mine go.

http://www.marionbumper2bumper.com/...-Tacoma-Prerunner-2016-2017-4Runner-p96278550

 

Pull the brake pads out (2 pins), then recheck the bearings.

 

When you turn left does it get louder? If so your rightside front wheel bearing is bad. Is there play in the bearing when you shake it at the 12 and 6 o'cock position? I've seen plenty at the shop that come in making no noise when you free spin it. Only under load does it show up.

 

If the noise goes away when turning a certain direction, it's the opposite side wheel bearing that is failing. As the weight transfers in turns at speed, it lifts weight off the inside wheel putting more force on the outside wheel. One certain way to check wheel bearings is to lift the front end till tires are off the ground then grab the wheel at the 12 and 6 o'clock position and see if there is play when you shake in/out. If there is play you have a failing wheel bearing.

If you remove the wheel, you can pop the center axle cap, and check the torque on the axle nut. Remove the cotter pin on the castle nut and see if you can get another 1/8th to 1/4 turn out of it. If you can turn it align the hole for cotter pin back up and reinstall the cotter pin. This is a cheaper alternative if you catch it soon enough but most likely once it starts to make the groaning noise it's too late.

 

Just an FYI for OP if he doesn’t realize, 12 and 6 position can also mean bad ball joints. Diagonally is more specific to wheel bearings. Unfortunately on the tacoma, sometimes the extra play method doesn’t work. Best to verify with excessive bearing noise.

 

Yeah, this is another possibility. If you can observe or have a 2nd set of eyes observe the ball joint for play, you can rule that out. Also if the tie rod is moving, it could indicate a bad inner joint on the steering rack. Or may be part of the problem also. Too many variables out of tolerance will create premature wear on all the front end components.

You'll be continuously chasing your tail if you can't replace all the worn parts at once. I spent $2k on the worn out front end on my truck. The previous owner let things get too loose and I had it all done at once to eliminate any clunks or issues that would affect alignment, which I was experiencing. if it wasn't my daily, I was highly contemplating just going for SAS. Not really something I felt I could complete in a weekend, even if it was just getting the axle mounted under the front end and steering working.

 

Maybe drive it for a while then coast to a stop using very little braking if possible. Jump out and reach in and see if one rotor is hotter than the other. We had a rear wheel bearing go out on my dad's truck years ago and I only noticed because we stopped out in the country so I could take a leak. I pissed on the back wheel and it sizzled.

Houston, we have a problem. You may not be able to tell a difference but it'd be worth a shot.

 

Sadly the classic "If you turn left and the noise goes away then it is the right bearing that is bad" is not always true. There are two conditions that occur. Sometimes, depending on the failure type, a loaded bearing getting quiet is because when under load, the stress point shifts slightly, taking the contact points on the bearing and moving them to a position where the bearing is not worn excessively. Other times when the load is taken OFF the bearing, the fact of the load being removed will make the noise go away because the load is no longer on the failed area of the bearing.

The best tests that I recommend is to lift the front tires off the ground by the subframe. (NOT the lower control arms. You want the suspension to "hang" under load) and spin the wheels by hand. Listen for anything other than a quiet rotation. Any noise typically will be due to a bad bearing. Second test is the wiggle test. Grasp the tire at 12 and 6 and wiggle. If there is movement, then the bearing is bad. The reason you lift the truck by the subframe and NOT the lower control arm is that by lifting on the subframe, the suspension is under load. This prevents a ball joint from allowing movement.

 

Thanks everyone for your input it was definitely the driver side front wheel bearing. Got it changed out today.

 

Currently have the same problem as well. (bad wheel bearing) Other then the noise that occurs, does the vehicle get damaged if driven with the bad wheel bearing? Any other components get messed up?

 

subed

 

Beriman10 I guess it all the depends on exactly how bad it is... I would just change it out as soon as possible just because. I just bought the whole hub and bearing assembly so I didn't have to worry about pressing out or in the new bearing. It was pretty simple actually a lot easier than I thought it would be.. It took me about an hour and a 1/2 but if I did it again it would be about half that I think..

 

Sometimes the rotor will start to contact the caliper.

 

Just press your own and replace them both for cheap. Don't have a press? Good time to build one with the money you save from a preassembled hub. If you plan on driving your truck you'll make that money back from the steel and jack costs in no time. Don't want a press taking up room? Improvise. You'll feel better about yourself afterwords.

 

After 160,000 miles I had the left rear bearing go bad on me, thought it was the front bearing originally.

 

My bro has used a log splitter as a press for years, but it could not budge the bearing on his Tundra. He had to come to my place to use my 20-ton HB press. They're on sale all the time. It's best to invest the money to get the right tool the first time. Maybe go a little stronger or bigger; I could have gone with a 12-ton press but paid a little more for the 20-ton. Glad I did as i really doubt the 12-ton would have worked on the Tundra bearing. The press came in handy replacing bushings on LCA and even used it to press the cups on u-joints. And removing the wheel studs on the hub in one shot.