Is my clutch starting to go?

Hmm, don't know about the rpms jumping after shifting, but you might want to crawl under your truck and yank on the u joints. If they feel loose that could be part of the problem. I just replaced mine and the symptoms where similiar.

If you let up off the gas does the vibration go away? For me I was getting more vibration when more torque was applied. I noticed it the most in 4th and 1st because of the way I was shifting.

 

It does go away after I left off the gas, the rpms go down and the engine seems to catch, almost the same as if I just took my foot off the clutch when shifting. I guess the best way to describe it is that as I'm just accelerating it acts as if I pushed the clutch in then let it go. As soon as I let the gas off and it catches it accelerates fine until I push down harder on the gas for more acceleration again.

 

^100% sure the clutch is going. It basically cant hold the torque of the motor any more so it slips when you gas it.

 

Why ask the question twice?
Better response with it being posted just once.

 

yeah i didn't realize i had posted it twice, definitely didn't meant that one.

 

yeah it seems to be getting worse the more I drive it. I know its gonna cost me a shitload but I'll be taking it in tomorrow. Thanks for all the helps guys

 

Expect right around $900 if you take it in.

 

Not true... Clutch slip and pedal / pressure plate force do not have to be related.

Shaking and dancing at start (take off) is a good sign of a stressed / overheated flywheel.

This can be done at any time in the trucks life. New drivers / Folks uncomfortabel with the clutch @ the boat ramp / Towing snatching stuff ect can over work a clutch and cause the friction disk pressure plate and flywheel to overheat. This trauma can damage a clutch for life. The abuse will causes heat and just like brake rotors a flywheel will develop hot spots of hardened metal. With excess heat they will warp and become untrue. This will cause a poor surface for the friction disk to grab. The plate then slips more creating more heat and amplifys this effect.

For repair the clutch (friction disk and pressure plate) will definatly need to be replaced, you might look into a NEW flywheel too. Turning the flywheel may help but if the cost (to turn it) is anywhere near 1/2 of a new flywheel I'd just replace it. You can't beat a new OE Toyota clutch pressure plate & flywheel just check all the guys with 200K + miles on theirs. Their are a few good name brand clutches similar in quality but their are very many low end clutches that I would not want installed in my truck.

 

do the slave too

 

I agree with most folks it sounds like a worn clutch disk. One test you can do is keep the parking brake on and put it into any gear and let the clutch out. If you can let the clutch briefly all the way out while giving it some gas and the engine doesn't die the clutch plate is definitely slipping.

Pulling a transmission is relatively easy it's the putting it back in that can be challenging. Make sure to use an alignment tool for the disk.

 

i work at a toyota dealer and the best way to check and be sure of it is pull the e-brake and try taking off in first gear, if the rpms start to go up and you dont move up you need a new clutch, if it stalls in place then your clutch is good.

 

The hardest part is pulling the tranny... it's a two man job at least getting that dirty bastard out. No need to get another slave cylinder if yours is fine, that's just money wasted, also no need to get the flywheel resurfaced if there isn't any gouges or substantial wear. Just take it out when you do the pilot bearing and hit it with abrasive wheel to get the buildup off and scuff it up. I got my Stage two clutch kit at the parts house for $159 and spent a full day getting the job done. Relatively simple minus separating the tranny and engine.

 

how many miles are you guys getting out of a clutch? just curious.

 

A lot of people get 200k +. Im pretty sure im on the original at 160k but I bought the truck at 146k so who knows.

 

I think I'm still on my original, which puts me at just under 160k

 

Clutch master & slave cylinder replacement

Try explaining that to the customer who just dropped $895 in clutch repair who comes back in 2 weeks later with a clutch Slave or Master issue... Been their and it sux...

I would not replace mine but I know I'm on borrowed time and understand what a new clutch with a bad master or slave feels like.

Also when I was making repairs for a living we replaced them as a set (Master / slave). Otherwise about 1 in 5 would come back with the older part giving up in short time. No one wants a come back ~ Custome or Mechanic...

 

I recommend buying a performance clutch online or at a local shop and install yourself, its not all that hard.

I just replaced mine about 3,000 miles ago. My dad and I did it, and all you need are good tools. The shop wanted $800 - $900. So i saved a good $600- $700 bucks, plus you get to know your truck inside and out.


I would PB Blast all of the bolts, so that it's a bit easier.

Good luck!

 

I would just replace the flywheel, i did when i did mine. I used a sachs kit. The flywheel was only about $70.

 

sachs is a good brand...

I found when rock crawling some of the performance clutches are a little grabby with very little on off transition.

 

sounds like its going out same thing happened with my truck 2 years ago and i didn't have time to change it my self with college and all so i had to pay 800$ to have it done... if your mechanical you should do it your self and save your self 500$ for labor