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Is my Fuel Pump gone?

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by 300k96Tacoma, Apr 28, 2014.

  1. Apr 28, 2014 at 5:01 PM
    #1
    300k96Tacoma

    300k96Tacoma [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Stock-300k miles
    Hey guys. My Tacoma would not start after I turned it off and just got back from a trip. I decided to check to see if it was the fuel pump so I sprayed some carb cleaner in it and it started and ran for a few seconds and then it would die.

    This seems to be an obvious fuel pump but is there anything else I should check before changing it? Thanks-
     
  2. Apr 28, 2014 at 5:03 PM
    #2
    RAT PRODUCTS

    RAT PRODUCTS Well-Known Member

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    Test the fuel pump.
     
  3. Apr 28, 2014 at 5:11 PM
    #3
    40950

    40950 Well-Known Member

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    Bad load of gas on your trip maybe?

    New gas filter first,,or,,if you have the skills,, run some fuel thru your filter with the outlet/injector side tubed away into a BIG container. This tests both filter and pump.
     
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2014
  4. Apr 28, 2014 at 5:13 PM
    #4
    300k96Tacoma

    300k96Tacoma [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Stock-300k miles
    I have recently changed the fuel filter so I know that is not the issue. I think I did get some bad gas, but I put some good gas (Full Tank) in about 100 miles ago and it has done fine. This just kind of started out of the blue
     
  5. Apr 28, 2014 at 5:17 PM
    #5
    RAT PRODUCTS

    RAT PRODUCTS Well-Known Member

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    Do you hear the pump when you turn the key to ON, but don't start it?
     
  6. Apr 28, 2014 at 5:28 PM
    #6
    300k96Tacoma

    300k96Tacoma [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Stock-300k miles
    I tried that and did not hear the pump, I need to get someone to try it and then lay underneath it to see. Thanks for the tips guys keep them coming..
     
  7. Apr 28, 2014 at 7:00 PM
    #7
    mikesdoublecab

    mikesdoublecab LT Chase Truck

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    my fuel pump went out at about 280,000 miles if i remember correctly... if you are over 300,000 based on your screen name, it could be the pump...
     
  8. Apr 28, 2014 at 7:04 PM
    #8
    LFTDJEEP426

    LFTDJEEP426 Well-Known Member

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  9. Apr 29, 2014 at 5:57 AM
    #9
    300k96Tacoma

    300k96Tacoma [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Stock-300k miles
    Thanks guys, yeah I am pretty sure it is the fuel pump. I am going to test a few more things today. Yep 328k on the clock, it wouldn't surprise me. I just replaced the stock clutch lol
     
  10. Apr 29, 2014 at 6:41 AM
    #10
    300k96Tacoma

    300k96Tacoma [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Stock-300k miles
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    #10
  11. Apr 29, 2014 at 8:47 AM
    #11
    Dirty Pool

    Dirty Pool FLIES ON THE FRIES, KETCHUPS WATERED DOWN

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    59.4 Miles, 56.67° NE Of Moab
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    Dirty Pool rear bumper/air tank with integrated spare CV shaft storage, DP customized TJM front bumper, 8000 lb Ramsey/Technora rope, E-locked, Extended breathers with front diff catch can, PCV catch can, SAWs with DP heim joint seals, DP custom 6 leaf rear springs/Billies, DP custom skids, 2lo, Gray wire, Cap, Bed Rug, Black steelies, 01 Center console, Map lights, Disraeli gears
    Get an OEM Aisin pump "kit" from Rock Auto for a little over $100. They also sell the rubber tank gasket. The kit comes with hose clamps, new hose, pump and prefilter. I have seen a fair amount of early failures with the bargain brands.

    Be aware that the pump does not receive power until the ECM sees a signal from both the starter and the crank position sensor (showing rotation). With just the key "on" there is no power to the pump.

    Be very careful when dropping the tank. There is a short flex hose on the top that can be traumatized/kinked if you are not careful. The little hex head screws that secure the pump/fuel level sender to the tank can rust and break off. The less fuel in the tank the better.

    These pumps typically start to fail at around 175K and beyond and when they die you are walking. Replacing it is good PM at that mileage.

    This recent thread might help with trouble shooting, starting at post #11.
    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1s...new-truck-couple-questions-some-thoughts.html In addition, on a cranking engine with a functioning pump, "flow" can usually be "felt" by pinching the return line with your fingers.

    Simplified system drawing from Toyota.
    OBACK006rs_zps94d9c313_37a5892ec0d78da80714827fdd2625102788a076.jpg
     
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    #11
  12. Apr 29, 2014 at 9:12 AM
    #12
    300k96Tacoma

    300k96Tacoma [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Stock-300k miles
    So you are saying someone needs to actually turn it over before I could hear the pump prime at all? This is about the only thing left for me to check on it.
     
  13. Apr 29, 2014 at 9:39 AM
    #13
    Puretac

    Puretac Active Member

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    I would recommend having someone sit in the driver seat and try to turn the Tacoma over for you while you lay underneath or near the gas tank. Listen for it turn on and start to "pump". If you don't hear anything, test to make sure you have power. If you do then drop the tank, buy a new pump, and test it before you put everything back together. When mine went out a couple miles from my house I banged on the tank with a rubber mallet and brought it back to life for the time being. Found a pretty reasonable pump at the Toyota Parts Center...
     
  14. Apr 29, 2014 at 9:40 AM
    #14
    Dirty Pool

    Dirty Pool FLIES ON THE FRIES, KETCHUPS WATERED DOWN

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    59.4 Miles, 56.67° NE Of Moab
    Vehicle:
    99 XCAB V6 MT TRD
    Dirty Pool rear bumper/air tank with integrated spare CV shaft storage, DP customized TJM front bumper, 8000 lb Ramsey/Technora rope, E-locked, Extended breathers with front diff catch can, PCV catch can, SAWs with DP heim joint seals, DP custom 6 leaf rear springs/Billies, DP custom skids, 2lo, Gray wire, Cap, Bed Rug, Black steelies, 01 Center console, Map lights, Disraeli gears
    Yes, unless the contacts in the circuit opening relay are welded shut or the ECM is bad, read of the latter only once.

    The full page from the FSM (mine was cropped) with the "theory of operation" can be found in the link to the other thread.
     
    Last edited: Apr 29, 2014
  15. Apr 29, 2014 at 10:04 AM
    #15
    300k96Tacoma

    300k96Tacoma [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Stock-300k miles
    Thanks for the help guys, I really appreciate it. We have some bad storms rolling in soon so I may be tackling this over the weekend.

    Is it hard to pull the body off of the frame to get to the tank?
     
  16. Apr 29, 2014 at 10:15 AM
    #16
    RAT PRODUCTS

    RAT PRODUCTS Well-Known Member

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    6 bolts hold the bed on. Then lift driver side up and stack some wood up and you have plenty of clearance. I just pulled my fuel pump last weekend. Very easy this way.
    3u3a4a5y_6182236c9076dc95aac7c50cca605b3abb4b192b.jpg
     
  17. Apr 29, 2014 at 11:59 AM
    #17
    Dirty Pool

    Dirty Pool FLIES ON THE FRIES, KETCHUPS WATERED DOWN

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    59.4 Miles, 56.67° NE Of Moab
    Vehicle:
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    Dirty Pool rear bumper/air tank with integrated spare CV shaft storage, DP customized TJM front bumper, 8000 lb Ramsey/Technora rope, E-locked, Extended breathers with front diff catch can, PCV catch can, SAWs with DP heim joint seals, DP custom 6 leaf rear springs/Billies, DP custom skids, 2lo, Gray wire, Cap, Bed Rug, Black steelies, 01 Center console, Map lights, Disraeli gears
    Plenty of folks lift the bed and it will definitely save a little time. I have done it both ways.
    With this type of repair I prefer to drop the tank and get it up on the bench. If you have drained the fuel down to a gallon or two, it is pretty manageable and much lighter than one would think. This allows you to work on things like a gentleman and look inside the tank and clean any crap that may be sloshing around. This is also a good time to touch up external rust spots and inspect/clean/anti-seize all the associated hardware. Then there are all the rocks that collect between the skid and the tank, rubbing little holes in the tank.:eek: Additionally with the tank out, any rust issues on the frame next to the tank location can be dealt with easily.

    In the end, rust on the various fasteners may dictate which way you go.
     
  18. Apr 29, 2014 at 12:09 PM
    #18
    300k96Tacoma

    300k96Tacoma [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Stock-300k miles
    Wow I like the side lift of the bed, that is interesting. Yeah I am not sure about rust ect. I took the skid cover off from below the tank years ago, I know somewhat risky but I don't take it offroad really. Anyway, the tank looks to be in really good shape. I probably should drain the fuel out and go from there. Bad part is I JUST filled it up lol. I have a pump I can use I think.

    Guess I will drop it this week/weekend and go from there. I got under the truck and got a friend to try and start it and with my ear to the tank I heard absolutely nothing.


    ***ISU when you lifted the bed did you mess with the tail light or tag light wiring at all or did you just pull the 6 bolts?
     
  19. Apr 29, 2014 at 3:10 PM
    #19
    300k96Tacoma

    300k96Tacoma [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Stock-300k miles
    Also I took a look at the fittings on top of the fuel tank, are these not quick disconnect? They look like they are just screw flanges
     
  20. Apr 29, 2014 at 3:43 PM
    #20
    RAT PRODUCTS

    RAT PRODUCTS Well-Known Member

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    Smokin with a smarty.
    In 96 the tank didn't have quick disconnects. My truck does. It made things a lot easier. Getting those fitting loose might be a bitch. Use a line wrench.

    When I lifted the bed, I didn't mess with any wires. If I went any higher I would have needed to. There was plenty of room to wrench and get my cordless impact in there.
     

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