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Is the clutch cover supposed to be flat against the flywheel?

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by AviateGW, Dec 9, 2015.

  1. Dec 9, 2015 at 12:35 PM
    #1
    AviateGW

    AviateGW [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I'm changing my clutch and something doesn't look right. When I align my clutch disk between my flywheel and the clutch cover, my clutch cover doesn't sit flush with the flywheel:


    I can bolt the clutch cover to the flywheel (and keep the clutch disk lined-up), but it doesn't quite look right. It seems like the clutch cover should be flush with the flywheel at the points where the cover comes into contact with the flywheel; otherwise, it seems like there will be an excessive amount of stress on the bolts as they will be subjected to a shear stress they would not have to withstand if the outside edge of the clutch cover was flush with the flywheel.

    FWIW, I've triple checked that the disk is lined up with the side that's stamped 'T/M Side' towards the transmission. I've also triple checked that I bought the right kit, AISIN CKT-040.

    I did have my flywheel machined. There is still a very slight difference between the height of the inner and outer portion of the flywheel, but, I don't think this is enough to cause my problem.

    Thoughts? Help? Advice?
     
  2. Dec 9, 2015 at 12:46 PM
    #2
    AviateGW

    AviateGW [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Rock, thanks for the reply. I've triple checked with the disk both directions under the cover: It simply doesn't fit either way. I'm beginning to wonder if the machine shop did something weird to my flywheel.

    I'm also kinda concerned about the differences between the old disk and the new disk:
    The old disk has more metal around the springs and is build differently.
     
  3. Dec 9, 2015 at 12:49 PM
    #3
    KdF

    KdF Old Rednek Type

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    You can run a straight edge across the flywheel to be sure, my thinking is that the pressure plate / clutch
    is either warped or the wrong one.
     
  4. Dec 9, 2015 at 12:54 PM
    #4
    AviateGW

    AviateGW [OP] Well-Known Member

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    FWIW, here is a picture of my flywheel.


     
  5. Dec 9, 2015 at 2:12 PM
    #5
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    Quite possible you have parts boxed wrong if the correct number was on all the paper work and box

    Are your dowel pins on the flywheel lining up correct on the clutch plate

    The clutch plate should set flush against the flywheel .
     
  6. Dec 9, 2015 at 2:20 PM
    #6
    Dirty Pool

    Dirty Pool I WAS DRIVING THAT MODEL A

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    You should have to "draw" the p plate up to the flywheel with the p plate bolts assuming the disk is in place. That is the clamping force preventing slippage.
    Some aftermarket plates come with the plastic spring retainers and some folks don't care for them.
    The step between the mounting and friction surfaces is normal and should be maintained for correct clamping pressure. An equal amount of material should be removed from both surfaces to maintain a step height of .5mm.
     
    Last edited: Dec 9, 2015
  7. Dec 9, 2015 at 2:20 PM
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    Leggo

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  8. Dec 9, 2015 at 2:41 PM
    #8
    rzgkane

    rzgkane Well-Known Member

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    Yup. If the pressure plate sat flush against the flywheel before you even started to tighten it down, your clutch would slip like mad.

    And there is a rotational torque sequence you should follow. It's not like bolting on a wheel, nor is it in a circular pattern. From memory, you should bolt at 12 oclock, then 4 oclock, then 8 oclock, then 2, 6,10 then whatever is left
     
  9. Dec 9, 2015 at 7:03 PM
    #9
    CodeSeven

    CodeSeven Yo

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    yep. everything these guys said. there really isn't much pressure on the bolts once you put the tranny back on. since the throwout bearing pushes very slightly on the springs, relieving some of the tension off the bolts.

    also, it looks like you got your flywheel resurfaced. they probably did it, but be aware that they had to resurface your flywheel in 2 places. the outer 3/4 inches of the rim, and the actual surface area where the clutch pad makes contact. there's about a .035-.050 inch (.5 - .75 mm) difference between the 2 surfaces. the fact that the outer rim sits "lower" than the pad surface, means that there's even more tension being added to the clutch pad. AND also why the mounting surfaces looks the way it does. So at rest, there's full tension at all times. if there was no step (completely flat all the way through) the mounting surface would sit flush and that gap would be filled in by the outer rim of the flywheel.

    IF IN THE CASE YOUR CLUTCH FEELS LOOSE OR LIKE IT'S GOING TO BE SLIPPING EASILY AND A LOT. you may have to take the flywheel back and have them cut down the outer surface a tad bit more. If the machinist knows what he's doing (has done more than 5 2-step clutches) then he got it right. So, no worries but be aware.
     
  10. Dec 10, 2015 at 7:08 AM
    #10
    AviateGW

    AviateGW [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Black '99 3.4 SR5 4x4. OME/Dakar
    16x8 KONIG Countersteer Offroads from FN, OME/881s in front, OME shocks/Dakar leafs in back. K&N CAI, and last, but not least, TRD Shift knob.
    Thanks, guys. :cheers: The Beers are on me!

    My first clutch job that wasn't a motorcycle; noob buffoonery.

    And, TacomaWorld is awesome.
     

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