Is there a year that they changed the frames and is it worth buying a Tacoma in the salt belt state

I asked this question in the first gen form and figured I ask this one as well.

Right now I live in Oregon where there is plenty of second gen Tacoma's (with the original frames) for sale that are in good shape, but I'm finding myself in the future moving back to Wisconsin and worried it won't last long on those salty winter roads. My question is are the first generation Tacoma so prone to rust, even if you spray them with a fluid film, paint, under body coat(which I find to be a bad idea), Chain and bar oil, Dump waste oil down the frame, wash the frame before the snow melts or whatever trick people use to avoid rust or will they still rust and rot away.

 

First Gen Tacomas are prone to rust and no longer eligible for replacement.
Frames on 2nd Gen and 3rd Gen Tacomas are the same and also prone to rust

 

No frame is safe on any vehicle in a rust belt state. Get some kind of oil/lanolin based spray done to your frame anually.

 

4 year old Tacoma in Saltachusetts with Fluid Film every year. Still looks new to me.

 

Unfortunately, 2nd gen frames rust as bad as first gen

Rustproofing, is the only thing you can do to protect it...or not drive it in winter

 

At this stage of the game, I think I'll just wait till I move back to Wisconsin and buy a Tacoma with a replaced frame. Or just not move back, but who knows how long that's going to last with the cost of living on the west coast.

 

I live in Minnesota and bought a 1987 Ford Ranger brand new and drove it 17+ years and it had 197,000+ miles one it when I drove it to the junk yard. Beside all the mechanical issues it started to have, the main reason it was junked was because the frame was rusted so bad the trans crossmember was only held on by one hanging loose bolt due to rust. And yes it was rust proofed. At the time, I used a rust preventive material that dried somewhat hard and when it cracked I assumed moisture was accumulate in the cracks. Oh, it still had the factory original clutch in it. The sheet metal fared better as I routinely washed it during the winter months. I also inherited a '87 Ford Ranger which didn't have the same winter maintenance as mine thus not only was that frame in such poor shape due to rust, the sheet metal was severely rusted and at 142,000 miles it was junked. In my opinion vehicle frames should go through the same treatment as uni-body cars. I knew the older models Tundra and 1st gen Tacomas had a frame rust issue, but I was unaware it effected my 2010 which I bought used with 41,000 miles. About two or three months after I purchased it I read an article that stated the 2010's were put on a frame rust watch. At that point I purchased rust preventive material and applied it myself. In the process applying the rust preventive material I noticed how poorly these frame are designed for a rust belt area. These frames have all kinds of braces welded in to the main frame rails for what I assume is added strength. Every brace is a place for road chemicals to hide and start the reaction to form rust. The main frame rail members seem on the thin side and why didn't Toyota just make the frame thicker and of better material instead of welding in all those braces. It sure looks like it would be time consuming to weld in braces. The other issue I noticed when I was adding the rust preventive was the air conditioner drain drips right on top of the right frame rail. Here, I added an extension and re-routed it to the inside of the frame to the bottom. Frame engineers need really need to spend some time in the rust belt and get some first hand knowledge on how to design a frame to reduce moisture accumulating points. Had to be engineers straight out of college with no practical experience who designed these or the bean counter had a lot to say about the design.

 

I’m surprise your ranger ran for so long. Was it fuel injectied or carbureted engine with a million vacuum lines? My dad bought a new 1990 Toyota 2x4 pickup that had probably the last 22R engine with the carburetor. I think he paid $8500 which is good I guess, but the carburetor had issues of course with all that vacuum crap. Either way it was a good truck and lasted 21 years and had 210,000 miles before the rear brakes completely rusted and the body was gone and the engine was ready to fall out.

 

That looks GREAT! Where do you get it cleaned and coated? I'm in the area and am shopping.

 

We do a Fluid Film get together every October at @BadDNA house 40.00 a truck for our size.

 

Both Rangers were 2.9 engines with fuel injection and 5 speed manual trans. Each needed a throttle positioner to be replaces and one needed the fuel regulator and electronic module replaced. Both had radiators that would develop leaks at the tank and core seams along with valve cover gaskets that needed regular replacing. Most of the time I only used the clutch when I had to stop, the trans were robust enough to take the occasional missed gear alignment change, but most I was able to change gears like there was butter on them.

 

Sounds fun. Can you tell us what y'all use, and how it's applied? Or is there another thread about it? Thanks again, hoping my Taco lives a few more years up here in salt-land...

 

He uses Fluid Film, and he suits up with a mask and all and hits every crevice. Even switches over to a thin hose and sprays in all the holes of the frame. Here's probably under the truck for about 25 minutes very thorough.

 

Oh cool, I didn't know FF was actually the name of something. Thanks for the tips!

 

Just move down south and you won’t have to worry

 

I know, right? What's a little tornado/hurricane/earthquake/wild fire/mud slide/volcano... I'll stick with the snow & salt. New England may be trying to kill people slightly less than the rest of the country seems to be.
;-)

 

Ok, this is a pretty far fetched thought, but I figured I would ask. Are you still in Ca? I/m in the SoCal area, and brought my 06 Tacoma here from Wi. (Kolosso Toyota Appleton) I'm going in to see if I can get the frame replaced next week. If they ok it, and the frame comes through, maybe I'll be selling it. Just an fyi. : ) : )

 

You need at least a dime size hole to qualify. I always thought it would be a good idea for 1-2 Gen owners to bang the shit out of their frames with a claw end of a hammer to see if they qualify.

 

Thank you for replying. I wish I knew how to upload a photo I took of it. My independent mechanic found a hole the size of a quarter next to the catalytic converter. I've got to get it in asap, and am sick as a dog. I had to cancel today. Do you know of any dealerships in SoCal that have done frame replacements? One guy on TW has gone to Long beach. I'm willing to drive anywhere. There's a few dealerships near me, but the time I've gone there, I did not trust them. I feel as I'm looking for a surgeon and am wiling to travel for the surgery. I'm better qualify!!! I haven't been sleeping well.

 

I live in Portland. If you were up here in the NW I’d be interested.