Issues with the driver side power window console.

It is odd, but it "works" but very slowly and only rolls up about 3 inches at a time... then I have to wait and try again to get a little more. My Drivers side window is the only real issue, but I feel like the others are now slowing down, but only when I use the master control on the drivers side door, think I need to replace the whole console. This is for a 2003 SR5 3.4 DBC. Any thoughs or advise on where to buy would be amazing!

 

Look for Car Parts Wholesale on eBay...Just replaced my drivers door switch panel.

 

You might want to lube the window regulators and spray some silicone spray on the tracks .

Do you get lots of water on your Master Switch ??

Makes a big difference

It would be a pain to swap things out and have the windows still go up the same

It is possible the window motor might be getting tired.

Find the problem before spending money

 

He's correct! Helps with the "chatter" you get sometimes when powering the window up or down.

 

If you think the switch is bad, run a jump wire to it from the fuse box. Bypass the switch and connect to the wire going to the motor. See if the motor still runs the same. If still the same, then the switch is good and the motor needs looked at. Sometimes you can take them apart and clean the contact, or switch them around between doors.

 

Sounds like a tired motor

 

Start with the easiest and cheapest.

Clean the contacts on the master switch assembly. They're probably extremely built up with residue.

 

^^^^i agree! If all the windows seem to be slow-sluggish using the master but the others are fine when using their own switches id assume the master is just gunked up with dust and debris and prolly a lil corrosion from water getting on it since beings on the drivers door it surly see's the most rain water and use in general....

 

Amazing responses and looks like I will start by dissecting the panel and cleaning it up and then look for improvements, I will post what I find here! Thanks a million.

 

Started totally intermittent, now it's every time. Only the drivers side too, but I feel like that entire control moves up each window a little slower than years prior. And the issue started last "winter".... Don't think we have those in Florida anymore. But if this helps, for the most part if I can pull up on the glass while using the control it will kinda go up and then just locks and I have to wait about 2 min to try to get another few inches out of it.

 

Having exact same issue. Drivers door, window will lower about 6 inches and stop. All other are fine. Are after market regulators a good consideration, or should I look for a Toyota part?

 

There is a plug down by the kick panel, make sure it's plugged in all the way. That caused only one of my windows not to work, just because the plug wasn't ALL THE WAY IN. And before I knew about that I had blown 100+ dollars on a window motor and master switch, so if you end up needing a motor or master switch, let me know. Good luck!

 

Problem solved. Cost was much less than anticipated, but found something other than what we thought. Turns out as I removed the regulator, I noticed the glass still would not go all the way down. Turns out the front metal channel was bent pretty bad. The door check came in contact with it and both parts need to be replaced. When questioning the "bride", I was then told the door was wildly blown open in heavy winds. The door check bent back enough to then strike the channel, then when the door was forced close, it further damaged the channel.
Oh and by the way, the regulator motor works perfectly. Door check part on order and is not cheap.

 

Awesome. Glad you figured it out.

Thanks for checking back in and updating the thread. Helps a lot with future troubleshooting.

 

Good evening, I might be late on this thread but any help you can provide I would appreciate. I drive a 2002 Tacoma PreRunner and I am having the same problem with my driver side window. So from what I understand according to this thread, the metal frame that holds in the window was bent? I'm having a hard time understanding the fix and I would like to know what to expect before I take my door apart, thank you. Please forgive my ignorance.

 

When closed, the glass sits in the upper door frame. When down and open, it sits in a metal channel inside the door that is supposed to line up with the upper door frame. If either the upper door frame or the channel get bent or misaligned, no worky, worky.

 

Thank you for answering my question, this has been very helpful. I apologize for the late response, it's been a crazy week. Cheers!

 

You have described the exact symptoms I have in my 04. The first time I had a problem was when I left my window down and it started raining - I can't believe that is what caused it, as it was only a minute or two before I tried to roll it up and covered it with a towel. Ten minutes later it went right up. that was in 2011. Since then it I have had to replace the window glass once, and have meticulously cleaned and aligned and lubricated everything I could reach. I've pulled the switch and cleaned it with contact cleaner, nothing seems to make a lasting change. The probability of it malfunctioning seems proportional to how cold it is or how hard it is raining at that moment.

What has always bothered me about it is that it would often roll up at full speed - then stop half way. A minute or two later it would go up more. This to me seems like it is a built in protection so the motor won't fry if the window is jammed, and cuts power when it reaches the top. This circuit is overly sensitive and cutting power before it should, or when the assembly gets misaligned or gummed up with crud. The motor is working but something cuts the power to it when a given resistance is detected.

Or the motors were simply underpowered to begin with.

I believe that Toyota certainly was aware of this problem but chose to simply let everyone replace the motors, even though the motors are fine. This fixes the problem because the protection circuit was revised in the replacement motors. This is just my theory, I'm not smart enough to prove it.

I've had so many dumbassed problems with the door components - The power actuators, the cylinders, both handles broke off, and the (driver's side only) window problem. I hate to be the conspiracy guy - but it really feels like Toyota built the doors to last about 8 years, knowing that it's these kinds of problems that drive people crazy and eventually we give up and trade it in for one that has a working window.

 

In the middle of this one. My drivers side door window would go about half way up. I got an aftermarket Dorman regulator for around 65 bucks. OEM is like crazy expensive and research on TW pointed to the aftermarket. I broke one window sash loosening the bolt. Went to junkyard today and got a window for 45 bucks. OEM is 180.(you can replace a window sash but it's a project. I'll probably fix my old window and sell it later) I'd like to replace my switch panel also. I have had some intermittent problems with it. One thing I wish I would have done before buying parts was lubing the rubber window track. The rubber was out of the track and dry when I took panel off. Now I need another bolt for the window sash, probably from dealer, nothing at Home Cheapo. If you do a new regulator be careful taking the two bolts outta the window sash (tabs) Might even spray something on them and let them soak. This project just keeps snowballing.

 

Some Toyotas share the same console panel. I know my parent's Prius panel looks identical to mine, just look for a model with the same number of doors.