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It Begins: Miss Blue

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Builds (2005-2015)' started by jandrews, Jul 7, 2009.

  1. Jul 8, 2012 at 10:05 AM
    #441
    jandrews

    jandrews [OP] Hootin' and Hollerin'

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    Good to know, because I'd like to take a set of their 2.5" rear resi shocks for a spin if they can get the stroke I need.

    Thanks for the heads up.
     
  2. Jul 8, 2012 at 11:31 AM
    #442
    Slimwood Shady

    Slimwood Shady I love your mom!

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    #nomods

    anytime...
     
  3. Jul 8, 2012 at 2:01 PM
    #443
    jgwheeler17

    jgwheeler17 I'm a zit. Get it?

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    neglect, mostly.
    word on dat. still 105 in my parts now.

    trucks still looking great man, leafs look awesome. :thumbsup:
     
  4. Jul 8, 2012 at 3:43 PM
    #444
    XXXX

    XXXX Well-Known Member

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    Why are you buying a shackle that's the same exact size as stock? :notsure:
    All that shackle does is allow greasing and you can simply just get new bushings and bolts to do that. Save your cash and cancel the order IMO.

    You put in the Dakar aal or no for that measurement?

    Nice. I'm getting 2" of lift with 4 threads showing on my Kings after almost 30k so they don't sag much and should last you forever.

    edit: just saw you put in the aal in the dakar thread
     
  5. Jul 8, 2012 at 3:55 PM
    #445
    jandrews

    jandrews [OP] Hootin' and Hollerin'

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    Yeah, D29XL is in. Bear in mind, I have about 200lbs constant weight on the rear end. If it was unladen, I have no doubt it'd be in the 25.5" range.
     
  6. Jul 8, 2012 at 4:09 PM
    #446
    XXXX

    XXXX Well-Known Member

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    I'm just keeping an eye on Dakar numbers sense I have some in transit. I'm at 23-1/2" now and like the height. Without the aal and a shackle flip Ill hopefully be right where I want to be....low :D
     
  7. Jul 8, 2012 at 8:04 PM
    #447
    jandrews

    jandrews [OP] Hootin' and Hollerin'

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    In all likelihood, I'll probably trim the gas tank skid. It did the same thing to my stock leafs and doesn't need to be as wide as it is on that side...
     
  8. Jul 9, 2012 at 2:34 PM
    #448
    jonny

    jonny Betty White Edition Heep ZJ

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    Still following this thread.:thumbsup:
    Nice Work!
     
  9. Jul 9, 2012 at 2:47 PM
    #449
    jandrews

    jandrews [OP] Hootin' and Hollerin'

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    Appreciate it. It's getting there. Lots of electrical work to do in the near future.
     
  10. Jul 9, 2012 at 2:50 PM
    #450
    Slimwood Shady

    Slimwood Shady I love your mom!

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    Have fun with that in this heat...:rolleyes:
     
  11. Jul 9, 2012 at 3:07 PM
    #451
    jandrews

    jandrews [OP] Hootin' and Hollerin'

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    No need to buy a heat gun :)
     
  12. Jul 9, 2012 at 4:07 PM
    #452
    Slimwood Shady

    Slimwood Shady I love your mom!

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    Way to look at it in a positive light
     
  13. Jul 9, 2012 at 4:27 PM
    #453
    beerking

    beerking Well-Known Member

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    All-pro APEX front bumper, 4xInnovation sliders w/kickouts, ATO front skid, Smittybilt XRC-8 winch, Icon 2.5 Front coilovers with 700lb King shocks, 5100's on the rear, TSB Toytec AAL, slimcubby HID headlights, debadged, Magnaflow muffler, AFE drop-in, Python 991 Remote start/alarm, Clarion NX501, Wet Okole's, Weathertech digifit floor mats, Midland CB, Blue 4' Firestik II, Tailgate anti-theft mod, power tailgate lock, rear differential breather relocation & yellow wire mod.
    Thanks man, I appreciate the feedback. Just ordered the king coils to swap out since I'll have 250-300 pounds of stuff bolted on up front. Your truck looks great, by the way!
     
  14. Jul 11, 2012 at 2:36 PM
    #454
    jandrews

    jandrews [OP] Hootin' and Hollerin'

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    The neverending brake line saga continues.

    So, last fall I took a crack at installing extended brake lines in the rear. Stupid Toyota, as is apparently somewhat common on these trucks, overtorqued the flare nut, making it nigh impossible to disconnect the soft lines from hard. Not wanting to mess with it far from home, I buttoned the stock stuff back up and saved it for a later date.

    Fast forward to Tuesday. I leave the truck at a good local shop, after explaining the problem to them, and authorizing them to cut and reflare the hard lines if needed to make this shit work. I explain all this to their head brake man who will be doing the work. Later that day, his wife falls at home, gets injured and he has to leave. I have to leave my truck overnight. I'm ok with this.

    I get a call at 3:30 today. Truck's ready.

    I arrive shortly after work to the shop, pay, go out to the truck. The stock lines are still on the rear axle. I check the front. Sure enough, they put the brake lines on the front end. Apparently, their head brake man was still out and they had another guy handle it...a guy I had not talked to.

    Sigh.

    I go back inside, and will be bringing the truck back in the morning for them to move the extended lines to the rear axle and reinstall the stock front lines, all at no extra charge.

    I left a note in the parts bag with my cellphone number. No one called.

    Getting good work done these days is fucking impossible.
     
  15. Jul 11, 2012 at 2:43 PM
    #455
    XXXX

    XXXX Well-Known Member

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    I would be wondering if they even did the proper steps for an offroad.?. Isn't an offroad much harder to do brakes on then a typical truck? I remember reading something about the booster being a bitch and bleeding them being difficult.

    Either way thats one task I would not tackle on any 2nd gen after helping a buddy do his. His also needed to be flared. What a PITA.

    At least you didn't have the company you bought them from give you the wrong ones like many others have.
     
  16. Jul 11, 2012 at 2:49 PM
    #456
    jandrews

    jandrews [OP] Hootin' and Hollerin'

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    Actually, bleeding is easier. The hydraulic system fires brake fluid out like a fucking squirt gun as long as electrical is on. You have to be careful not to do too much too quick or you will drain the reservoir and pull air into the lines from the front.

    I left all this in the note with my cell phone number too. Luckily the process is the same - just turn on electrical, have someone squash the pedal, and open the bleeder screw. A little extra attention to the reservoir level is all that's needed.
     
  17. Jul 11, 2012 at 2:52 PM
    #457
    XXXX

    XXXX Well-Known Member

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    ahhh....now I remember someone saying that about the petal. Also now remember them telling me if you do get air in the system if a OR you are totally screwed.

    Good luck man. 2nd times a charm. :)
     
  18. Jul 11, 2012 at 3:02 PM
    #458
    jandrews

    jandrews [OP] Hootin' and Hollerin'

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    Not totally screwed, but you are off to the dealership for a full flush.
     
  19. Jul 11, 2012 at 4:06 PM
    #459
    jandrews

    jandrews [OP] Hootin' and Hollerin'

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    I think it's mainly the issue with the guy I discussed the work with having a family emergency.

    x2...pretty cheap and worth it to save the hassle.

    Good to know. I'm not leaving these on the front...they're way too long and I'd be worried I'd snag something and rip 'em out. I don't much like road driving them even, but the shop is literally half a mile from my apt.
     
  20. Jul 11, 2012 at 4:21 PM
    #460
    Slimwood Shady

    Slimwood Shady I love your mom!

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    #nomods
    When I did my fronts, I just went to auto zone and bought another line for like $6 and bent the little z pattern and kept it moving. The rear ones took forever to get them to break free. I just kept turning and turning and turning....:rolleyes:
     

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