Its SNOWING...how to use 4x4 right (NEWBIE)

Got a question for you guys - David K - I'm pretty sure you'll know the answer - and I'd like your take on this. I know you should never drive aroung on dry pavement with 4WD engaged - drivetrain will bind because there is no differential between front and rear wheels. However, the owners manual says you should engage 4WD and drive for ~10 miles each month to keep things lubed. Ideally you would do this in a way where the wheels would slip - i.e. off road, in mud, sand, etc... I don't necessarily have time to go offroading each month - so I will occasionally put the truck in 4HI while driving on the highway on my way to work. I switch into 4HI on the on-ramp and then switch out on the off ramp. I'm not making any significant turns while I do this. I do this about once per month like the owners manual says. I'm thinking if you are driving straight then there is not much strain put on the transfer case - even on dry pavement. If driving straight the wheels are all turning at same speed. Problem is when turning right. I know what it feels like to make a sharp turn in 4WD when the tires are all getting good traction - I always avoid this and switch back to 2HI when I need to turn. Question - is it better to do this once a month - while driving straight - to keep things in the 4WD system lubed - or not do it at all and only engage 4WD when you actually need it. I don't really do any off roading - but I do use it in the snow - and have used it in the snow a few times in the last few weeks.

 

You should be fine... 10 miles/ month straight driving... I am sure there are some (as lot) of us that do go a whole month without 4WD... and the truck works fine.

 

You will be fine. I have been doing this for the last 24 years,

im on my third tacoma, my last one i had for 14 years - 180k miles

and i NEVER HAD 1 DRIVERTRAIN PROBLEM.

not only does it keep everything lubed, it also activates all the electronics involved.

I know there are those so scared to use the 4wd on the pavement,

but when done correctly, it is basically preventative maintenance for your truck.

 

Thanks guys - appreciate the feedback. Thought as much - but this is the first 4WD vehicle I have ever owned - so wanted the opinion of some experts.

 

+1

That's why I started this thread. My parents and other family members have only driven 2wd cars. I prefer to do it right, and ask people who've gone through 3 tacoma's.... lol.

 

if ya wanna do some fun drifting... turn off you traction control by being at a stop and hold down the button for about 10 seconds to have some fun

 

Will def. try to make this happen someday.

 

hahaha

what can i say, i love these trucks.

my only problem is my 14 year old is eyeing up my current truck

is there a 4th one in the future ???

 

I got a 2005 Black TRD and have driven in everything the northeast has had to throw at me. For 4 years I drove between NH and Western NY every week, year round for a job. Have not had to use the locking diff ever. I bog, I ride route 1 during coastal flooding, I drove the mass pike and the wilds of upstate NY through all weather on interstates in the worst of storms where I was the only one out there sans plows. Night or day, hot n sunny or white out lake effect blizzards, I drove it in my tacoma and never felt I needed to pull over. The rear diff for me is a hopelessly stuck option and I feel that if I drive in control of my ride then I wont need it. Using the locking diff should not be necessary if you drive your truck in 4 hi/lo with ease. Its all about controlling your speed with your engine revs. That's why I drive a manual. I decide what the engine does not anyone else.

I switch from 2wd to 4wd on the fly in all conditiions. Let off the gas, make sure your speed is where you want it because you are going to get a twitch in the back when it engages if you are going to fast. Make sure you have weight in the bed since the rear is light. I prefer to weight with sand and I carry a shovel so I'm prepared.

Question, when I had my rear diff locked in 4lo for practice my 2005 TRD let off an annoying continous beep. I asked the dealer mechanic to disable this and he said it was a safety violation and wouldn't do it. He tried to explain that the beep was to remind me I had my rear diff locked. Uhhhh, I think I know that....here's my question..

How do I disable this beeping? It drove me nuts.

Thanks for all advice.

 

The beeping tells you that the locker failed to engage. When this happens, I usually come to a stop, swap to neutral, press button, and try putting it back in gear and moving forward slightly. I sometimes take very small turns in case the rear has a small bind in it or something so it can wiggle back in place. Not all of that is necessary, sometimes all you have to do is slow down and toggle the button again.

When properly engaged, there is no beep.

 

Very very good advice....first time I been on a forum with someone asking a question about this and not getting bashed...amazing...well except for this one guy named jack pretty cool fellas

 

X2

Hard to believe (not really) that people at a dealership don't know about the trucks! The owner's manual also tells you that the light goes from blinking to solid when the rear diff. is finally locked.

 

Wow! I can't believe that dealer steered me wrong. I'm going to go out today and figure this out. When I was testing it out with the rear diff locked it never stopped beeping?

 

this





(but then again, i don't know "jack")

 

I had an '05 before the '10... if it was beeping, then the rear was not locked. The light blinks as well when not engaged.

Remember, it only locks in LOW RANGE on the 4WD models... and it does often take more than one attempt. Start stopped, wheels straight, foot off the brake, in Neutral... this will have the least amount of 'load' on the drive shaft so the locking gear can slide into place. Push button (light should flash and then go solid)... and put truck in D or 1st, let off brake and roll ahead... If light still is blinking you can try turing the steering wheel both directions... only because others succeed doing that.

 

question by locker you mean the differential lock button right? and under what circumstances would you use that in the first place and why?

 

In simple terms, with an open differential (no locker on) the power from the engine will follow the path of least resistance. If one wheel is in the air (or where there is no grip) and the other was gripping onto the road or some other object, the wheel in the air will be the path of least resistance and will be the only one spinning causing you to be stuck. If the locker is turned on, both of the rear wheels will be "locked" together and spinning at the same rate so if the one wheel is spinning freely the other that has grip will also turn allowing you to get out of the stuck situation. Now the locker should not be on full time because when the vehicle is turning the wheels have to spin at different speeds and will cause tire wear and binding if the locker is on.

Let me see if I can find a thread that explains this more

 

Yes, the differential lock button.

Circumstances are numerous, but in a nutshell it is a traction device that helps you climb hills or traverse loose terrain, allowing you to both get through the obstacle and get through in a more controlled manner. Consider mud, rocks, hill climbs.
In an open diff, you only have one drive wheel, power transferred to the other wheel on positive traction. Locker locks the diff and provides constant equally-distributed power to each of the two wheels, no matter the traction condition.
Lockers should be turned off for tight turning and hill descents, or side-of-hill conditions where your rear end attempts to drag you downhill. Basically, any condition where you need the tires to rotate at different speeds.

Search forums for more info.

 

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/te...uto-lsd-explained-easy-understand-i-hope.html

This is a good thread for reference

 

The rear differential locker... used for emegency stuck where normal 4WD won't help because the tires are spinning but not grabbing. The rear locked differential puts equal power to BOTH rear tires, and not just the one in mud or in the air... so the other tire will move you... provided it is on better ground.