japjoe7 audio build thread

Glad you asked! I just have a hole drilled through the sail panels right now and they are attached on the outside with hot glue. I will eventually created 3d printed rings and bond them to the sails. They will not be flush but will be at an angle half way through the panel. Similar to how Mark from CAF made his.
Edit: Don't mind all the pollen all over my truck, had the windows open all day lol.


For the firewall and grommet I used a

$13 NEIKO 10194A Titanium Step Drill Bit, High-Speed Alloy-Steel Bit, Hole Expander for Wood and Metal, 10 Step Sizes from 1/4" to 1 3/8"es

step bit to drill a hole though the firewall and then put on a

mxuteuk 12 Packs PG21 Cable Glands 12.2-18.8mm Cable Connectors Plastic Nylon Wire Protectors Joints Waterproof Adjustable Black With Gaskets PG21-BK

PG21 cable gland. In the spot I used I needed to cut a flap in the carpet for the cable to come thrugh.

 

Got the amp fired up. I have some static hiss coming from all speakers. Thought it might be the RCA's or the head unit but after unplugging the RCA's from the amp the hiss is still present. I swapped the ground to a cable with no dis. block and to another seat bolt but still getting the hiss. The speaker wires may look like they are sitting on the power cable but they are not, they are a good inch away from it. I'm thinking it's the the amp gains but I have to work on that. Started messing with the DSP settings and it's complicated. Just going to take some time to run all the mic tests.

 

Glad to see you're still plugging along. I'm assuming you ran your RCA inputs away from your power wire and sanded the paint at grounding points?

Side note: Are you using a RTA? If so which one did you go with?

I am finally going back together with my interior so tuning is just around the corner. Figured I'd try the autotune and go from there but my buddy who just installed this said it will need a mic to do this. I already know this ends with me paying Nick for a remote tune but trying to be optimistic here.

 

Yes, I have my RCA's running on the right side of the center console and my power wire is run down the left side doors, so they are not close together at all. Yes, even sanded down area where I have the ground attached. Ground wire is about 17" long. Next I'm going to run a ground to the battery directly and see what that does.

I have a miniDSP UMIK-1 mic that I'm going to use with REW. Also, I'm using the Helix DSP PC-Tool software to configure ATM, ISA, RTA, and auto tune. Been playing with it a little and I'm slowly getting use to it. It's still very complicated and cumbersome, not for beginners for sure.

 

Ive had the same static/noise floor issues with an Audio Control D-6.1200, mitigated with gain adjustment but still present. Audio Control even replaced the amp under warranty (bought on Amazon im surprised they did)
I figured it was just the AC amp...glad i didn't waste money changing it!

I even ran 0 AWG positive and negative almost direct to the battery, didn't seem to help much. ymmv

When i was T/S for the warranty i even ran the amp from a completely isolated spare battery, not a power/ground loop issue

Nice back wall amp board setup!

 

Nice to know, thanks for the info. I ran a ground directly to my battery and it did the same. Never had this issue with past D amps.

 

Been playing with the DSP the past week. Once I got use to it it's not so bad but a steep learning curve, definitely not for a beginner. Also, been modelling a box that has the exact measurement I need to meet the volume requirement for the 10TW3. I used what I got from MrMarv and tweaked it a bit. Sorry, will not be providing measurements as I don't think that would be fair with the amount of time I've put into doing this and what MrMarv has helped with.

 

I finally have the two Helix amps up and running. My grounds are nothing crazy just 12" 4 gauge attached to the humps under the front of the seats (each has there own/ no distro). These amps have little to no noise at all from what I can tell (yet) but I am using an optical connection to an android h/u. Makes me wonder if it may have something to do with your h/u or your rca's sense those are the 'x' factors. The m six dsp gets very hot, the m one x is barely warm.

 

I have a Topping D10s coming soon that I will use optical with the Helix, I'll see how it sounds with that. I did notice when I was adjusting the input gain on the DSP that the noise would change so I have a feeling that has something to do with it. I have it set to RCA @ 4.0Vrms. If I go any lower than that the static gets louder. I'm taking off these caps on my tweeters too, the pops are annoying me. Mine runs warm as well. The other day when it was in the 90s outside it was so hot I couldn't keep my hand on it, didn't shut off though so it couldn't have been too warm to run.

 

Not too much leeway with boxes in these trucks anyways!

Is the top just above the child restraint tie downs?
The step-in near the top for the cross member looks almost double what it needs to be

 

Took the child restraints off but it’s to clear the window motor. Starting the box in an hour so I’ll be double checking fitment as I go.

 

welp, @soundman98 you were right. I made that step too wide. I end up moving it out 3/4” so it will fit the sub.

 

that looks better


oh, and fyi; the factory threaded holes underneath the crossmember re-thread to 1/4-20 really nice(with enough meat yet for the oem bolts to catch as well) for a clean spot to bolt the box to

 

Nice! I’ll look for them.

 

it's a typical metric thread from the oem, but i had 2" 1/4-20's and washers on hand, where i didn't have the metric hardware.

as far as sealing the bolt, i found something similar to this at my local hardware store in the plumbing/hvac section. works really well, i just stick some on the wall and run the bolt through it, with another layer on top of the bolt. works way better/re-usable than globbing silicone over the top of the installed bolt!
https://www.armacell.us/products/armaflexinsulationtape/

 

Awesome thanks, def. doing this!

 

Got a new toy delivered today. JL 10TW-D4 will be wired in 2ohm.

 

Got a little more done on the box yesterday. Routed the edges of the side pieces for the carpet to sit in cleanly. Glues and nailed the sides on.
Circle jig and post came in so now I can cut of the circle and add the post. Also got the threaded inserts and stainless hex bolts(10-24).

 

Bought a DD-1 and testing the output on the

$840 DMH-WC6600NEX Digital Multimedia Receiver with Wireless Apple CarPlay and Android Auto, 9" Floating Capacitive Touchscreen, Modular Double-DIN, Built-in Bluetooth, WiFi and Amazon Alexa

DMH-WC6600NEX and it's good at 38 for Bluetooth/USB. Distortion detected at 39 and 40. Didn't test AUX since I'll never user it.

 

Just watch those binding posts. I think I got a cheaper version through a prebuilt box deal, but the 'banana plug' connections were drilled all the way through, representing a major box leak!