JBA Offroad Upper Control Arms And Suspension MEGA Thread BS thread

4.1 BS is less meaning your tire sticks outside of the fender more than 4.5 BS

 

So by that, I'm thinking the 0 offset is the ideal. It will run a 255 or 285 without rubbing the UCA or LCA. The -10 offset would stick out further and be more likely to rub on the fenders in addition to flinging more dirt on the side of the truck.

 

It would likely rub if the wheels were outboard more, however since I don’t own a set of wheels with -10 and that exact set up I can’t say definitely.

 

Well, I didn't get the wheels. I should be good with the 255s.

 

Anybody have issues with their tires rubbing the jba arms? I’m on 35’s with 7.5 wide wheels 4.5 backspacing but I have 1.25 inch spacers. Anyway I’m pretty positive I’m rubbing the arms at full lock, any body have advice?

 

Different wheels or different UCAs. I'd go with different wheel, if your 35 is a 12.5 wide, it's on the wrong rim. Go with at least an 8.5" wide wheel.

 

The way this reads, my UCA will not clear the tires?

295/70/17 on 17x8.5 0 offset 4.75bs

I haven't mounted the tires on the wheels yet. I am also lightly debating 285/75/17.

If it comes to it i won't object adding 1" spacers.

Edit: i originally thought my wheels were 4.5bs but it is really 4.75bs.

 

Ya it’s definitely rubbing here

 

Tire size and wheel specs?

 

I’m on 35/12.5r17 with 7.5 wide wheels, 4.5 backspacing. I have 1.25 inch spacers

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/wtb-jba-uca-for-05-tacoma.710285/#post-25247897

 

Mines the same but doesn't the instructions say not to grease while it's tightened?


Also anyone know if they fixed their new rubber boot issue. Was thinking of buying the replacement for the upper ball joint

 

I’ve been to three different shops now for alignment in an attempt to get the caster set correctly. I gave up on the local Offroad shop here because they just would not listen and do what they want. None of them seem to work on the rear bolts on the lower control arm. What do your bolts look like on your lower control arms? This is what I’ve got and am set up at 3.9 degrees of caster. He said he can’t do any more or the camber would be off. First photo is the rear bolts and second is the front.

 

They appear to have more adjustment left in em. Are they same on other side?

 

Near the same. That’s what I was thinking. Guess I will keep trying for a bit more.

 

Does anyone have any issues with boots cracking? I bought some JBA arms off here and installed them a month ago. They came with new boots b/c the others had already had holes in them from only after 4 months of use. I installed the new boots JBA sent the seller prior to me purchasing them.
It's only been a month and my new boot is already cracking. Anyone else have this issue?

Edit: contacted JBA and they are aware of the issue. They have a new boot design coming out in a couple weeks and will place these under warranty when they release them. Again Marlin and his team have shown they care about the people who use their products and will make sure we are taken care of.
These are the boots i installed:


My boot:

 

I'm looking at buying these JBA upper control arms. I run oem sport wheels and 265/70R17 tires. In order to achieve the proper alignment, do the lower control arms have to be preset in order to get the alignment shop in the ballpark?

Thanks in advance!

 

Started a disassembly tonight of my front suspension and found my JBA UCAs to be a little bit uglier than when they went in two years ago.

I've got powder coat flaking off on the laser cut front edges, but I don't want to take them off to fix it.

Something I am a little bothered by, and can hopefully fix, are the rusted bolts holding the ball joint plate. All eight are completely rust covered and looking pretty gnarly.

Anyone else replace these for a similar reason? Can I get them in something a little more resistant to corrosion, or would that compromise the strength?

 

You live in Michigan, even stainless steel will rust there. If you can find grade 8 hardware in that size, that would be best. 316 stainless hardware would be 2nd best. I'd def suggest nyloc nuts and anti sieze on the threads in both applications.

 

I messaged Thursday about the boots again to follow up since I was last told late February.

“There have been some production delays with the manufacturer. We expected to have them about 2 weeks ago. As it sits now we`re expecting them in a few weeks.”

Mine still haven’t completely failed, so I’m not too worried about it getting here any sooner.