JBA Offroad Upper Control Arms And Suspension MEGA Thread BS thread

Your alignment numbers look fine, honestly. Maybe take it in for a second opinion from a different shop? Castor shouldn't cause wobbling or wandering. I do see that your wheels are very slightly "Toe out" at 0.03 degrees, while they were Toe in before your alignment. Since they are closer to center than before, maybe you feel more play in your steering while moving. Toe and Camber are your most important numbers when dealing with wandering. But also neither of those would cause wobbling. Like the other poster said, it sounds more like a balance issue with the tires. Some shops don't get it right the first time around. Tell the people that balanced them to check again, hopefully they won't charge you, if they are a reputable source that sticks by their work.

 

What is a good numbers for toe an camber can you recommend any good specs to try I’ll check with tire shop again . How about old LBJ ‘s can that be an issue to look into?

 

For toe and camber you just want as close to 0 as possible. But your chart looks pretty good. Before, you have some toe-in measurements. Toe-in might make your wheels track better on the road, slightly, but it can still wear your tires out. 0 is better, really. Some places will adjust toe-in on the right side to compensate for the angles of the road. If your road has an angle, like for rain run-off, then you might be wandering because of that.

As for your wobbling, yes, lower ball joint could be an issue. I wouldn't rule anything out. Tacoma's are known for their weak lower ball joints. But wheel balance can be responsible too, and that's a cheaper fix. I would check everything just to be safe. Start with the cheaper options, and if that doesn't fix it, start moving to the more pricy ones.

Do you off-road a lot?

 

Thanks for sharing on this no off road would like to do some. she’s my DD city queen my LBJ’S are about 7 years old OEM.when I change my shocks and LCA’s ball joint we’re pretty stuck so I bang then out with a hammer not thinking it can damage anything.
I will go to tire shop first for a 2nd look and alignment next to try to get closer to the 0 on toe an camber . I’ll probably order some LBJ ‘s meanwhile.

 

Been running the HD UCAs for a while now and absolutely love them. My current wheel/tire setup is as shown which are 265/70r17s on 17x7 +4 SEMA wheels. I'd really like to bump up to 285s, or 275s in C-load, but don't want to use spacers if at all possible. I've been looking at a set of Method 703 with 0 offset and 8.5 wide because I don't want to push my wheels out too far and create a host of other clearance problems. For those of you who have JBA UCAs and running wheels/tires larger than 265, what are your setups like, and did you have issues with clearing the UCAs? Thanks.

 

Similar situation here, running 285/70/17 on FXFN wheels 0 offset. I do have wheel spacers, in the process of getting rid of them, I was told to go -negative offset, -12 or so, should not have a rubbing problem, higher -offset will create rubbing, I do have a CMC, and did some hammering back when I put these tires in!

 

Have you tried removed the spacers and remounting the wheels to see if they do in fact rub? I'd prefer to stay 0 offset but I might be forced to go -12 which is the other variation Method sells.

 

I have Voxx G-FX TR16 wheels at 16x8.5 with a 0 offset, riding on 285/75r16 BFG KO2 tires on my 3rd gen. I also have the cab mount chop, and I have no rubbing at stock height, full turn and tuck. I love my setup!

I'm at stock height because I reverted my truck back from a 2 Inch OME 887 lift in the front. I'm sitting on the original TRD off-road shocks.

 

With the 0 offset, they hit the UCA's, reason I went with spacers, over the last year and a 1/2 I have replaced all
4 wheel bearings, thinking the spacers might play a roll in that, or weight! Starting with the wheels tho

 

Dang, I was hoping I'd be in the clear with that. Guess I need to rethink some things.

 

Looking into getting a set of JBA control arms currently running spc control arms and haven't really had any issues with them since upgrading to the new sealed ball joints they offer now. Curious if anyone here has made a switch from spc to JBA control arms.

 

You still might be, mines a sport, Bilstein's all around, they have (tire shops) that will let you try it out!!

 

I have the JBA, lasted 3 years, just ordered ball joints and bushings, mine are leaking, cheaper fix for me!

 

I checked the charts on JBA's website and it looks like it might just rub a little. They call for 4.75 or less backspacing and the Method's are listed as 4.8 for the 0 offset.

 

Tough call, I'm just playing it safe and going with the -12 , hopefully that works! Also looking into the Method's or SCS

 

Planning to pull the trigger on a set of JBA UCA's since I want to upsize tire to 285's finally. Just want to confirm, 17x18.5 ray10s and 285's with JBA's, I should expect to do some minor trimming and CMC potentially, but no issues of tires rubbing the UCA itself, correct?

 

What's the offset of the wheels? That will determine whether they rub or not.

 

I believe the 8.5 wides are -10 (4.30")

 

I think you'll be fine. I think anything under 4.75" for that size is ok. Maybe someone else can correct me if I'm wrong.

 

I've searched through this thread and all the bigger SCS threads to find people running the same wheel spec/UCA, and that seemed to be the consensus, but just wanted to triple check before I actually submit the order lol It was between JBA and SPC; seems like SPC has gone through many many ups and downs over the past handful of years with different designs, so don't really want to take that risk.

Whats been the experience of getting an alignment with aftermarket UCA's? Assuming most places aren't going to want to touch it, do you pretty much have to coach the shop on how to achieve the specs you desire?