JBL Premium Upgrade. Replacing speakers and subwoofer.

Seems then the 2.5 ohm JBL is still close enough to the stock JBL 2 ohm specs vs. the power bass 2 ohm. I assume the higher sensitivity on the JBL upgrades would use the factory JBL amplifier more efficiently and have no noticeable loss on volume ?

Anyone try the JBL Stadium GTO 620 - 6.5" Step-up Multielement Car Audio Speaker System, Grey (STADIUMGTO620AM)

$180 JBL Stadium GTO 620 - 6.5" Step-up Multielement Car Audio Speaker System, Grey (STADIUMGTO620AM)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T3D8D93 for the rear doors ? Or not worth the extra $123 over the JBL GX series in this thread.

 

I have a set of those to put in my rear doors but I probably won't get them installed until next week. The reviews are excellent. I have a non JBL system with an aftermarket head unit so not the same as you but I would imagine those would be a nice upgrade over stock. I ohmed mine out they are 2.3 ohms. FYI there are vendors on Ebay that have those speakers for 60-70 less than the ad you posted w/ free shipping

 

Well, got out of work early so the 620's are in lol. Dropped right into the rear door on the same adapters I was using for my kicker CS 6-3/4" . Will have to see what they sound like once broken in, but they seem much cleaner sounding than the Kickers. They are definitely made a lot nicer.

 

I'm about to pull the trigger soon, @RyanDCLB - how is everything going on your end?

 

Just did the 4 6.5 deaf bonce Arnold's and deaf bonce tweets , getting rid of that non sense cup holder

 

Doing rockford p1000xbd for 10w7
Doing the salt 200.4 for the 4 6.5 Arnold's beaf bonce front doors , Doing the jl audio xd800 v2 for the 2 6.5 Arnold's in the back door the deaf bonce tweets on door panel and the 2 deaf bonce tweets in the a pillar

 

I still need to add the dynomat and possibly the tweeters, but otherwise, rock solid!

 

I hope this helps someone. It took some researching. Also, I don’t know the max wattage ratings of the stock speakers, so the numbers are the frequencies, RMS, and max wattage that is coming from the amp.


JBL Premium Audio
System Specs

Dash-Board 2.5" Speakers:

--Resistance: 2 ohms (2.37 ohms measured)

--250hz - 20khz (mids-highs)

--Power: 12 watts RMS (12.5W max from amp @ 600Hz)

--Recommend: 3.5” 2way at 2-2.5 ohms, and highest sensitivity you can find (will require trimming), or 2.5” mid/high range speakers (not dedicated tweeters)


Front Door 6x9's Speakers

--Resistance: 2 ohms (2.2 ohms measured)

--28hz-550hz (Sub/Lows only)

--Power: 25 watts RMS (30W max from amp @160Hz)

--Recommend: 6x9 component sub, 2- 2.5 ohms (Sub only and leave out remaining crossover and tweeter), or go with a 4 ohm DVC 6x9 sub wired parallel to 2 ohms. (Powerbass makes one).


Rear Door 6.5" Speakers

--Resistance: 4 ohms (<3 ohms recommended, 2.6 ohms measured)

--28hz-20khz (Full Range)

--Power: 21 watts RMS (25W Max from amp @ 270Hz)

--Recommend: 6.5” full range, 3 way, 2.5-3 Ohms, highest sensitivity


Rear cab 8" DVC Sub

--2 channels (Dual Voice Coils). Each one operates at 2 ohms (2.3 ohms measured)

--28hz-500hz (Sub/Lows only)

--Power: 50W RMS each coil (100W total) (110 watts combined max at 55W Max per channel from AMP)

--Recommend: Lower wattage 4 ohm Dual Voice Coil Sub, wired in parallel down to 2 Ohm, with a low RMS and a drop off at 30-40hz. Bridged from AMP (red and green wires to the sub). Alternatively, an 8” - 2 ohm DVC sub is a direct replacement.

 

What's the best option to just replace the sub? Any links would be greatly appreciated.

 

Here ya go: click on "spoiler parts list here" credit goes to @RyanDCLB

 

Im using a 4 ohm dual voice coil that is wired to 2 ohms. This only gives one input to the sub. So you use the pos from one channel and the Meg from the other (red and green wires. It sounds great. I had to trim the molding fins in the back of the subwoofer box as well.

KICKER CWCD84 CompC 8" Subwoofer Dual Voice Coil 4-Ohm

$68 KICKER CWCD84 CompC 8" Subwoofer Dual Voice Coil 4-Ohm

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N7QMXWW

you could also get any 2 ohm dual voice coil 8” sub and just plug it in. Rockford Fosgate makes a good 2 ohm direct replacement.

 

I found the harness for the rear speakers in the original post will invert the pos and neg, and the rear speakers will be out of phase. Either that, or they were originally wired out of phase from the factory.

 

Thank you guys! Just replaced mine with the same sub. I used the connectors. Not sure on the polarity but just used the black wires for negative and the other for positive

 

How's the sound compared to stock?

 

It sounds a bit better i can now at least hear some bump lol

 

Anyone tried a

$190 KICKER 48CWRT82 CompRT 8" Subwoofer, DVC, 2-ohm

Kicker CompRT dual 2-ohm?

 

I read in a another thread a guy tried it and he had the rockford fosgate too, he said the rf sounded better and fits better.

 

Thanks to everyone for contributing and to the OP for the great aggregation of information. Just picked up the bits and will install next week. I’ve always hated the sound these “premium” speakers put out.

 

This setup is for sale! $400 for all the speakers. $400 for the HU

$700 for everything

 

Which sub ended up sounding better?