JBL Premium Upgrade. Replacing speakers and subwoofer.

You can do front and rear, but the bird's eye would require an additional module

 

Finished replacing all of the speakers. The magnets on the "premium" speakers are not that impressive.

OK, so thoughts: The sound is much cleaner and I do notice the bass more. With the bigger speakers in the rear doors, the sound is fuller, like more surround. It is definitely an improvement.

I am gonna give it a while and see if I want to replace the amp. When I do that, I will go with a bigger sub. I know I can go with a 10" sub, but I am thinking that if I remove the panel behind the rear passenger seat, I can probably build a box with enough air space to do a sealed 12". I want more bass, but last time I threw a system in a truck, my '91 Toyota truck, I had 2 15' subs in the back. So I may not be happy until I get that much bass.

Gratuitous pics attached. I didn't take pictures when I was installing last night...well, except for the 1 pic of the rear door speakers.

 

sealed 12 is going to be a tough airspace requirement. if you want low and loud, i would recommend looking into ported or passive-radiator-supported 10" subs. even the 10 passive radiator setup is pushing the absolute limits of the the available spacing

 

I know. I need to pull the plastics behind the passenger seat and get measurements and figure out if I can get the air space I need. I will do that another time if I wind up being unhappy with just the speaker upgrades.

 

for a baseline, i took over the 60% side of the 60/40 split. my box measured 8" deep on the bottom, something around 32" wide, and i ran the top all the way up to the crossmember under the rear window. from running the calculations in winisd, it says my box ended up at about 1.5cu ft, though i want to say it ended up smaller due to all the cutouts for obstructions. i'm still debating running an aperiodic vent to make up the difference

 

The Fosgate 12" I was looking at specs out at 1 cu ft sealed box, so it is doable.

Thanks for info! That really helps. Also, nice box.

 

06TXED, what option did you go with? Happy with it?

 

Haven’t pulled the trigger on anything yet.

 

get one of these and tell us how it fits and sounds!

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13693256/JL-Audio-CS113TG-TW5v2.html

 

I am still looking for front door speakers for the Jbl in a 2020. Everything else has been replaced. I was looking at the 6x9 Jbl stadium gto960c but they are difficult to find. They look to be discontinued and only available on eBay for $200. Does anyone know if the newer Jbl 964m, 9631 or 9631F are comparable?

this is the last of it for sound in this truck, and I’d like to just do these fronts once.

 

Any thoughts on these?

 

Here is the connector pins layout that I did.

 

Are these output from the amp or signal to the amp?

 

I believe output from the amp

 

Anyone have info regarding factory JBL signals sent to each speaker? Rear door speakers seem to have absolutely no lower frequencies sent to them.

 

I have a 12" W7 and I'm just going to drop a seat and set it in there, then do a quick disconnect and take it in and out. I don't use the back seat much away, so it's no biggie. I just need to figure out how to hook up an amp to this system.

 

easiest way is to use the factory amps sub output to go to your new amp as a high level input.

 

Any advice would be appreciated. I reluctantly ended up using an LC7i I had laying around to send signal from my factory amp to my JL Audio 10” sub amp. It sounds way better than the factory sub, but I’m really confused about the input signals to the LC7i. I removed the factory sub and fed voice coil #1 ( purple/green, purple/yellow) into the LC7i channel 3 left side and voice coil #2 (purple/black, purple/red) into channel 3 right side. With this configuration I had to turn my gain on the sub amp to about 3/4 and it sounded kinda blah. I read on here somewhere that I should tap into only one voice coil, but I also read to use both. I ended up using just voice coil #1 into the left side of channel 3 and for some reason I was able to turn my sub amp gain back down to less than half and it actually sounds better and louder now. What the flip? This sounds counter intuitive to me and now I’m left wondering if I should use a Y-adapter coming out of the LC7i to feed my sub amp a left and right signal. The LC7i is only being used for the sub at the moment and none of the channels are summed. Also, automode is turned off.

**I know that the LC7i is not the best thing for our JBL systems, but I actually tried the pac ampro TY13 module and the speaker wire harness and it worked but the sound quality was garbage. I had to turn the gain up pretty high and even then it didn’t sound any better than the factory sub. With my phone connected to the aux port it sounded so so but fm and xm you couldn’t even tell that I had a sub. That was with the bass set to max on the HU and the bass knob. Crutchfield and PAC tech support said they were stumped and couldn’t resolve the issue so I returned it. Hence the LC7i instead.

 

Do you need to change any setting to the LC7i to let it know it is being bridged to the sub? Some amps and DSPs have a switch that needs to be set correctly.

 

The only setting was the automode jumper which tells the LC7i to feed channel 2 input to channel 3, but turned it off since channel 3 has the sub input already.