JBL Premium Upgrade. Replacing speakers and subwoofer.

Yeah, I usually do that. But then got ahead of myself. I was able to put most of the bolts into the holes they came from. What I'm worrying about are the ones that hold things. Like which one they go to. I'll have to try and find pictures from gutted Tacomas on here. Should give me a decent idea.

Pretty smart. What kept happening to be was I'd misplace bolts. Apparently they like to get stuck on the bottom of the speaker's magnets. Lol. Drove me nuts looking for random ones. Was about to start putting a list together and run to the dealership.


Got some more progress today. Taped up some of the wires on the driver side door and got that finished. When I started up the truck, I was getting a BSM error. Thought about it for a second and realized I didn't plug the connector back in for the mirror. The indicator on the side view. Was relieved that's all it was. I was hoping I didn't pull something from the front to the back.

I guess this would also be a good place to keep notes. The million bookmarks is killing me.

Resources I've collected just to reference and verify placement of bolts.
Headliner removal.

Spoiler

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c37zgaUQsVo

https://catalog.pac-audio.com/catalog/amppro-amplifier-interfaces/ap4-ty12
https://www.audiocontrol.com/car-audio/power-amplifiers/acm-4300/

 

Run to Harbor Freight and pick up one of the magnetic bowls they have. Works great for dropping screws and bolts into so the dont roll off or fall in between places. I'll definitely be wrapping some wires and connectors with Tesa tape when i go back in. Luckily i dont have any noises now but doesnt hurt to plan ahead

 

@GRNT4R So I do have one of those. It's on the side of my tool box... Look what's on it. Definitely Toyota bolts from the last project. Don't know what I was doing. I give up.


Miwaukee Light has been awesome for this entire thing. Pulled an all nighter.

Guess what I did. Yup. Spilled a drink. Crazy how it kept seeping out from all the crevices.

So I was messing around with the passenger side door just to run out of butyl. Stopped at 3/4's.
When the sun came up, I decided to tackle the headliner. Was way easier that I thought. The hardest part was the caps on the rear passenger grab handles. You have to undo the latches on both sides then pull it straight out. I couldn't get it with the pry tools, ended up using a pick set.

Front visor like everyone said 2 screws and pull. Wiggle and pull. Unplug.

C-Pillar - Pop open the SRS Airbag cover. There is a 10mm bolt in there. Then you can just pull the entire panel off. I think it was 3 of those clips.

B-Pillar - Remove the door seals. Start at the top of the lower panel. Detach it from the top panel. Work work and when you're on the bottom clips, pull down like a hinge. Not straight out. They have the angled clips on the bottom.

I forget which one, but one had 3 red clips and the other had 4. I'm going to guess it was the passenger side that had 4.

B-Pillar Upper - Has a bolt at the bottom. Then pull straight out.

You are able to start lowering the headliner. You can see all the wires. Looks like a bukkake party under there.

Rear Dome Light - You can remove by pressing the 2 corner clips inward. Don't think you have to remove this unless you want to remove the headliner from the truck. I did so I could reroute it.

Disconnect the microphone.

Once you work your way around the entire headliner and remove the wires it will just drop down. Be careful with the front wires above the rear view.

Assuming the wires are glue to prevent movement and rattling, I Tesa Taped all of it.


Removed the headliner from the truck because things seemed a lot easier. Can confirm it definitely is.

 

This is going great. Can’t believe you gutted the truck that far. If I did that I would have about 80 parts left over a have lost one of the seats in the process.

 

Great posting!!! Anyone have spec’s on the factory amp? The sub appears to be dual voice coil and receiving 2 channels. I read somewhere that a guy bridge the amp into only one VC, like a red and green wire and had decent results. I was thinking of getting a 4ohm dual voice coil, paralleling them to 2ohm and bridge the amp for max output at 2ohm. Any thoughts?

 

That is what I always do. Either cut or de-solder the factory connector and solder to the new aftermarket speakers. Bam - instant fit.

 

That is above my level of comprehension.

I think in my mind it's just having the ability to switch back to factory in the simplest way.


Out here again over night.
This Milwaukee lamp is growing on me. Magnet and clamp.

Don't wait so far into this project before getting something to carry all your tools in. Hoodie can only get you so far.

Last door finished.

Hit these upper door panels. They rattled and made a noise. So I applied some foam tape on there.

Butyl and foam.

Now stuff started going back in. I already got a rattle. Seems like the standard driver side door one. Will be taking that one back apart.

 

I did this with a Polk Audio dual VC sub. Better bass than stock for sure. Have not had any problems with the factory amp.
The sub has instructions on doing the bridging

 

Love this thread and love your dog! My dachshund is supposed to be my assistant too but she doesn't help much.

 

This one?

https://www.polkaudio.com/-/media/files/documentmaster/polk-us/mm1_subwoofer_online-manual.pdf

 

Yes. That one

 

Starting to look like a truck again. Did you use the Jelly Sandwiches for extra hunger deadening

 

I think i'll be tackling my rear doors and back wall sometime in the near future while i research amps some more. This thread is definitely the motivational thread of the year.

@bonifacio I may have missed it but what is the purpose of the silver tape you have? Does it also help with deadening or are you using it to hold the edges down of the deadening material?
THanks

 

I bet people are wondering why is it taking this guy a month to get this done. Haha. I just have a lot of projects. Rifle builds, modifying my computer desk, fixing a dresser. Then I keep getting sidetracked on the truck. I'll find something new that needs done. I just keep tinkering.
The silver tape is just me being me. Being extra. Pretty much just being ridiculous. Since there is a sliver of a crack between the matting I figured the foil tape would just block out the tiniest of vibrations.

My fingers have been hurting from all the mat application and little things. A lot of cuts from foil and they're dried out. So I'm gonna be lazy here and can revisit it if I have to. Found some circle foam washers or whatever you want to call it. Fit right onto the panel retainers. Put them on the backwall, B-pillar, C-pillar panels.

Running low on fuel...

Since I have things apart, I figured I would just silicone the rear wall vents. Went ahead and dabbed some silicone on the roof rack bolts as well from the inside. I was able to squeeze in the headliner and get that done.

Mystery part. Not sure if it's from the truck or not.

I used some thick foam and now the storage container won't sit in. The little retainer is too short. I removed some foam but it wasn't enough. Just gonna have to try and find longer ones or another solution.

I got the infamous driver side door rattle. Wasn't sure where it was coming from. Has to be the panel / controls. When I put my knee on it, it stops.
Took the door apart again. More tesa tape. Tried to take apart the window control module. The PCB in the box is somehow attached to the window lock button. I undid the clips but it was still stuck on there. I didn't know if I should have pull harder, but I wasn't gonna risk it. Tesa taped all up in that and added more to the door. Even the connector for the speaker just in case. Hopefully it's gone now.

The plus side to all of this is I only misplaced one flange nut so far for the rear window motor. So I'll be trying to track one down. I had a nut and lock washer, but it didn't sit right with me.

I also kind of lost track of how the bolts went on the subwoofer. There were 4-5 silver ones and 1 black one. Not sure where the black one goes. The washer on it is too small and goes through the holes. I'll have to figure that out. Been searching for the parts diagrams, but that's been difficult.

 

Ahhh makes sense. Looking good bro. I agree, that deadener will cut your fingers up really bad and fitting the roller in those tights spots can be a pain.

Those foam circle washers prob def make a differnce in rattles. That was a good find

 

So did you get an 8phm and bridge to 4 or a 4ohm and bridge to 2?

 

4 bridge to 2. No issues yet. Did it last summer.

 

Amazing job!! I wanna do something similar with mine. The factory speakers are terrible…

 

Perfect. Thanks for the info! I feel better moving forward doing the same.

 

Also wondering if anyone has tried porting the factory box in the Tacoma?