JDawg562's Long Travel Tacoma

Bumped and strapped?
Honestly never checked at the hub lol.
The front 8" coilover I have ~4 1/4"" up and ~3 1/4" down. Bumped about 1/4" before coilover bottoms out and strapped about 1/4" before it fully extends. Not sure what that works out to at the tires. Total chaos says 13" of travel with 4WD and I'm a 2WD.
The rear has a 16" smoothie ~7" up, ~9" down my rear. bumped 1/4" before shock bottoms out not strapped yet. Ordering one this week.

 

I was more wondering about the driveshaft lol

So many doublecab solutions, but not enough access cab info, so I jump at the opportunity to get some correct measurements

 

Ah yeah I know...
So I took measurements randomly (what I thought was correct) transmission face to center of carrier bearing to bolt on pinion at ride height, droop and compression. I took my drive shaft to a shop and gave them the measurements, but they wanted measurements from carrier bearing bolt on one side to pinion flange same side. So I went home got the measurements at the passenger carrier bearing bolt to passenger side middle of the pinion flange at ride height, droop and compression. Then called them back with those measurements and they cut it down and added I believe a 6" slip yoke which was more than enough. I think at the max distance to minimum distance was about 1.5" of movement needed. The shop does "normal vehicles" as well as crawlers/rock bouncers/custom, so they actually had a clue what I was talking about lol.
I can give you my ride height and droop measurements tomorrow, but Tim from DMZ said the measurements can be different.

 

Bump Stops and Spindle Gusset
I might change the front bump stop mounts down the road, but here's where it's mounted for now. @TacomaGuy23




Spindles Gussets!
I welded as much as I could on the front and stitch welded down the back and fully at the top and bottom. I also did a little grinding at the bottom to keep the stock brake dust guard in without it hitting.


Bonus
Since I had a spare floor jack. I deiced to do a "sub frame lift" with scrap angle iron and some heavy duty wheels I bought off Amazon. Works good I can lift the entire front half of my truck with it under the engine. All the wheels are rated to 4800lbs or 2.4 tons. Best of all no more dragging out blocks to put on the floor jack plate and I can lift my truck on gravel/dirt/cracked/uneven driveway without the truck trying to slip off. I always use jack stands... I don't like trusting floor jacks with a $0.05 o-ring holding it up when any part of my body is under it.
From harbor freight:
Maximum Lift Height (in.) 19-1/2 in.
Minimum height (in.) 2-7/8 in
After:
Maximum Lift Height (in.) 26 in.
Minimum height (in.) 9-3/8 in

 

Made some remote reservoir mounts out of scrap angle iron and 1/8" steel plate after work. No longer bouncing around rattling and the hose clears the springs by about 1/2"

 

Hungry Valley!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GkILF-AAoPU
Still need to tune my rear shocks with the new DMZ kit.

Girlfriend brought a friends DSLR camera.

 

Finally bought a nitrogen refill station!

 

lol I'm instagram famous! What's your instagram?

 

Me too!

 

Forgot to post this here.



I stopped at Barstow on the way back from The Mint 400 and tested my new valving real quick.
It has basically a .012 stack in there on compression.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SySdcUok59w

Compression Valving
[----Piston----]
------------.012
----------.012
----.010
-------.012
----.012
---0.12

I'm happy with it. I also ordered an AAL for the DMZ pack. Just waiting for them call me so I can pick it up and I'll toss it in.

 

Hey fantastic looking taco man, Quick question though; I saw you went from the Mts to the Rts. How's the difference? Was looking at both of those tires for my LT setup but Im worried the RTs won't handle sand or mud well

 

Well with the M/Ts I bought them used what lowish tread and the previous owner wore them out unevenly. It was more of a $400 test to see if 35s would fit before I actually buy new ones. I've only actually been stuck once in a pit of mud that was at least a 1' deep, sticky, thick and every direction was up hill... The Toyo M/Ts were also the quietest mud tires on the street I've used too. They could compete with some "louder" A/T tires.
The Toyo R/Ts for me are prefect for me. Maybe just a tad overkill for my driving. I learned what I can/can't do and don't really push the limit of my RWD truck getting stuck or not. Most friends also only have A/T tires, most only have 32s tires max, only a couple of them have 4WD and a couple of them don't have locking diffs either.
Both are/were 35s, load rating E, heavy and stiff side walls. They both were also the best in wet street conditions out of the other M/Ts tires I used too.
I only recently started playing with tire PSI since I bought a portable compressor that also helps a ton wish I did that sooner.
These are my first time using Toyos on anything and I'm really happy with them both, but for my style of driving and the amount of miles on street vs dirt I chose the R/Ts.

 

Had a few days off and decided to make a bumper.

 

Went to Gorman earlier this week. Almost lost my spare. Feel free to follow me if you want.
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bl_pkEVj3Je/?taken-by=ju5t1nwashere

 

lol flipping you're spare like a coin - looks good though.

 

lol yeah I looked in my rear view mirror and was like "ohhhhh shittttt". Still thinking about building a mount to actually use lug nuts to bolt it on, but lately been on the fence about taking out my bed liner and actually welding a bed cage on to the frame.

 

Just mashed the videos up and tossed them on youtube.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TF0U9j-6-tA&feature=youtu.be

 

That tire