JDM Motor in 2002 DCSB SR5 Prerunner

I acquired a 2002 Red DCSB that "needed work" for $500. I had it shipped to me in early March. I am starting this build thread to document the process of what it takes to do the job.
Needs work is an understatement as the pictures will show.
I have a concern about the "direct replacement" motor that I bought from JDM - Vancouver being just that, a direct replacement. As I find the differences I will document and show what they are... it just might save some poor soul some steps.
I am in San Diego CA so smoging this when done is an issue. I attempted to do business with the JDM store locally, they had a "motor sale" and they had a 3.4 that would fit for $600, sweet I told the voice on the phone, I am on my way, hold it for me. He said OK. I drove the 30 minutes to the shop and as I was pulling in a truck with a motor in the back was pulling out. I didnt really pay much attention to what it was. When I asked about the Tacopma 3.4 the employee said we just sold it, the guy just left... I said ok, do you have another? No was his reply. Will you be getting any more? I dont know was his answer. I asked him when I told you to hold the motor and you said OK what were you thinking... blank stare... I thought to myself, this build isnt starting off the right way. sooo were off.

 

what the damage to current engine?

 

shoot, that's more than $500 worth of parts alone even if you didn't fix it up. GL with the build. maybe there's a salvage yard with a rear-ended 4Runner or Tacoma

 

current engine is scrape... zero oil and broke the cam off at the first journal on the drivers side head.

It is pre sold so no scrape value except for the motor which I will donate the engine rebuilder I know for inventory.

 

First set of issues ...
the oil filter is in a different spot, should be moveable

the alternator/fan pulley is 6 groove where the original is 4

signs of water pump seepage out drain hole so she is getting a new cam belt and new water pump.

bleed hole not at 12 o'clock, while not necessary I just prefer it that way.

 

the oil filter should be the same for all 5VZ, it looks to be where mine is. unless that pic is of the passenger side and that cap is where it should be

did this engine come from a truck or car?


pulleys being different groove is easy to solve

new water pump and "timing belt"

5VZ should be 6 o'clock for thermostat, 3RZ/2RZ is 12 o'clock

 

car or truck I do not know... will the dealer be able to tell me if I get the numbers off the block?

 

They just need your VIN. I spy rust belt plates, I'd be stabbing the frame with a screwdriver before getting all willy nilly about an engine.

 

Looks like a Texas front plate to me :??

 

I'm thinking Wyoming since it has a horse

 

Notice the space shuttle in the left hand corner and Plano is a city in Texas, just an observation

 

When I did my engine swap I took the extra time to replace all the seals and bearings since the motor was out, a few extra bucks, but so easy to do and then I'm good for another 100,000 till timing belt needs replaced.
Replaced front seal, rear main seal, valve cover gaskets, water pump, timing belt, idler pulleys, thermostat, all belts, and knock sensors and harness, plugs, wires, intake gasket, fan hub bearing,
30,000 later still not a drop of oil leaking anywhere

 

Texastruck and the frame looks to be OK. I am doing a complete seal replace with the timing belt kit.

saturday and sunday show some advancement in the project and I discovered a few more differences between the 2 motors.

I have to use to old AC bracket as the replacement motor has different motor mounts and the P/S motor mount sandwiches beweem the AC bracket and the block.
I disassembled the oil cooler system and transfered it to the new block.
new coolant hoses for heater etc off the back of the block... these look rather difficult to get to when the motor is installed.
The oil pans are different. Took the old pan off and I am glad I choose to replace this rather than go the rebuild route.
My local Toyota dealer is of the Certified Used Toyota dealer type and has a limited parts inventory so most things have to be ordered or shipped from another local dealer so things move at a slow pace... I just dont know what I am going to need next until I discover the problem.
The exhaust manifolds have to be transfered. The US built motor exhaust manifolds appear to be thicker and a metal alloy where as the Japan motor are cast iron.

 

Sounds like a plan, I hope that sludge is from the old motor?

 

Yes... LOTS of it. The scraper full was just from what clung to the bottom of the oil baffle.

 

I ordered the complete water pump timing belt kit off of ebay and it arrived today so I hope I can swing this motor in this weekend. I do have a question regarding the allen hex tensioner bolt... the manual says pre-coated... ok, they do not make reference to what coating. I am assuming that the area behind the front cover is exposed to oil from the the block, not under pressure, just vapor/fling/? so, the FIPG should be fine to seal the bolt?

 

I got the timing kit and installed it with a new water pump, no surprises there. The fan mount had to be swapped out none of the belts would align. Got the motor installed and inital firing late sat eve. Ran her for a few seconds and did the fluid check dance... add fluid to the power steering, add fluid to the trans, add coolant, add oil to the motor, run her a few seconds shut her off check for leaks, repeat.
I did have an odd issue though, when I would hit the brakes to run the automatic through PRND and back, the motor would shut off every other time then a P1300 code was set. I checked the igniter harness, unplugged and repluged and no improvement. I checked this forum and there are lots of P1300 issues... great I thought, it might need a PCM. Oh well, back to basics for a diagnosis... verify the grounds were tight but I took them off and cleaned them anyway. When I checked the positive terminal on the battery I noticed that there were 2 large eyelets under the cable retention strap on the battery terminal and when I examined them there was lots of corrosion... maybe, just maybe. I cleaned those up and sure enough that appears to have fixed it... CEL went out and no codes present or pending. I will take her for a short drive tomorrow and see if there is anything else that happens then drive her around and hope i can complete the drive cycle and smog her in the next day or two.

 

So for the motor mounts your new engine came with them and they bolted right up to your frame, but they bolted in a different manner to the engine? Curious because I bought solid motor mounts I was planning on using for a similar swap. Thanks for the info! Not too many people on here doing this swap so it's nice to see what needs to be done - when it's all good to go do you mind compiling a list of each issue you had to address in the swap? Thank you. Glad to see your truck is coming along well!

 

I had to use the original mounts from the original engine. They bolted up to the stock location.
I am sitting in my breakfast resturaunt atm waiting for the rest of the world to get up so that I can go get her smogged... I will make a list of "issues" and condense them for an easier read.
As luck would have it I am finding 3.4 motors littering the for sale ads now... when I was in need of a motor a month ago there wasnt one to be found.

 

Yep, not changing CHEAP oil often enough, IMHO,,,, much cheaper than a motor.