JDM Motor in 2002 DCSB SR5 Prerunner

If she was running I would have liked to experiment with some brake fluid in the crankcase and idle her for a few hrs, dump, repeat. I have been told that this really cleans the sludge out BUT the brake fluid effects the seals... I have never had a motor that is that sludged up to try it on.

 

If you get it running, the BG EPR treatment is your friend, might have to do it several times,,, but it'll clean it up. Helped my oil consumption by about 30% there abouts.

 

moving on to other aspects of the build. The spare tire "key" is missing, arn't they all... anyway I took a few pics of what is going on. I tapped the spring pin out and dropped the anti-theft mecahnism off the spare tire winch for clarity purposes. You can easily tap the anti-theft mecanism off while still mounted. When I was reasearchig this there just wasnt a clear enough explanation as to if there are any pitfalls in doing this. Like the saying, a picture is worth a thousand words.

 

Both front door handels were broken... Toyota want some $120+ per handle, eek. My aftermarket collison parts place was $17.50 each. I figured for under $40 I would try them... Sure they are aftermarket and you can feel the difference. I installed them and was not happy with how they felt/worked. I could tell that they wouldn't last. While driving her around I noticed a rattle in the DS door. I took the panel off and the rear glass guide rail was broken. The spot welds that hold the upper braket to the rail had pulled through. I figuered that I would take the dooe striker off and see why the handle opperated so hard. There was so much dirt/dust on the moving mechanisms it was binding the thing from working... quick cleaning with a chip brush and some 3 in 1 oil they work just like new. I will have to the the P/S now.
While driving her I noticed a squeek from the rear leaf spring on the D/S. I will drop the springs and see if the pivots are dry/worn. I also noticed that when I brake and hold the pedal continuosily until she stops that when I take off there is a noticeable clunk from the drive train... I will drop the driveshft and see if there is any wear and if not bad lube the shaft/u-joints.

 

as supected... nothing had been lubed in many many years...

clunk gone.

 

I have the new bumber and lower cover mounted and I am looking for a way to mount the front plate without drilling holes in my new chrome bumper... is there a plate frame that can be used or did Toyota "forget" about mounting a front plate ?

 

@mechanicjon

 

Never dealt with front plate frames. Arizona doesn't require them. My bumper has no holes in it.

 

Found something else wrong. The brake booster would not hold vacuum after the engine was turned off, the brake pedal rose instantly. I refired the engine and squeezed the vacuum line to the booster and the RPM's dropped by 75 rpm. Ok, there is a leak in the booster... eek Toyota wants $500+ for a booster. I purchse a rebuilt one from Oriellys for $180. I take the booster off, it is really easy and the amount of room when it is off is great. I know a guy here in the San Diego area that does nothing but brakes. I call him up and I take the booster(s) and master cylinder to his shop. He immediatly calls the seal in the picture bad. I look at the new booster and there is a seal there. I install the seal on the MC and we test the system. The booster still doesnt hold vacuum. Transfer the MC to the new booster and she is fixed. Steve, the owner at Bush Power Brakes in National City, tells me that it is obvious that someone replaced the MC and just stabbed it into the booster assembly and in doing so, tore the seal. Seen it many times before he says. Learn something new everyday...

 

Yep that keeps the vacuum from leaking out between them.

 

another modification needed, maybe... my cousin who is buying the truck is 6' 8". What I was thinking was to disassemble the seat rail from the seat frame and weld a longer piece of steel strap between the sliding rail and the frame to push the seat back some 3 inches... anyone ever done anything like this before?

 

On your jdm engine did it have a allen plug in the block instead if the nipple for the oil cooler hose. How did you get it out. I am doing a jdm swap and having a hell of a time trying to get the plug out without stripping out the inside of the allen plug.

 

mine came right out... I had to go into my "old tools" tool box to get the correct size allen socket and my 36" 1/2 drive breaker bar. The water pump on the JDM motor does not have the outlet for the cooler so you are going have to put a water pump on her too. My local dealerships did not have the orings, the seals for the cooler bolt, hoses etc. so it took a week or so just to do this aspect of the job.

 

Hey did you have ur oil cooler cleaned? I am very suspect about using my cooler on newer jdm motor being that the motor it came off of had 2 thrown rods

 

no, I took the oil filter apart and there was a suprising lack of material from the motor it there so I just let the oil cooler drain and blew som compressed air in it at low pressure and it all came out clean.

 

I just hosed mine out with brake clean and replaced the gaskets.

 

If you've ever watched South Main Auto on YouTube you'll know this is referred to as the good stuff

 

coming up on 2 - 1/2 years for this repair and she is still running strong. The only "repair" since delivery was the A/F sensor. My buddy says it is the best $8k truck he has ever owned.

 

Where is the JDM write up?

 

How was the oil filter housing and oil cooler oriented on the JDM engine? I have a 2WD and mine is oil filter housing in the front and oil cooler in the back. I'm looking into getting a JDM replacement engine for my Pre Runner.