JLee50's daily driver, weekend toy build thread

Now that I'm almost finished with my MR2, it's time to start on the truck. I've seen some incredibly organized build threads here, so I am hoping to do the same to aid in keeping track of everything that's been done, everything I want to do, and also for ideas from others for something I may be missing.

The goal is to retain daily driver and truck utility abilities (i.e. not losing substantial bed space or any towing ability) while adding casual offroad ability. The planned rear suspension should result in spring-limited bump and droop travel without requiring bumpstops or straps.

Purchased in spring-ish of 2012 with ~263k:

1999 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 V6 TRD
5 speed w/e-locker

I replaced upper/lower ball joints, inner/outer tie rod ends, and (poly) steering rack bushings. Replaced worn/mismatched tires with 31x10.50 Falken Rocky Mountain ATS.

ToyTec coilovers: Installed by previous owner
Front spacers: Installed by previous owner; removed

2013: Replaced alternator, starter, front e-brake cable, and clutch/brake pedal covers. I've also removed the spring on the clutch pedal, since it had ripped itself out of the mounting tabs.

We are at 274k now.

The done list:
12-21-13: Extended rear brake line
12-21-13: Add a stronger return spring on the parking brake
12-17-13: OME Dakar leaf springs and OME Nitrocharger Sport shocks

The to do list:
Grey wire mod
Remove lower rear spare tire mount
Replace throttle position sensor (intermittent CEL)
Crossmember for upper shock mounts
Reloate upper and lower shock mounts
U-bolt flip kit
Replace valve cover gaskets
Blinker relocation
Diagnose/fix clutch pedal squeak
Disassemble/reassemble rear brakes to diagnose/fix occasional sticking

The want list, prioritized-ish:
New head unit / speakers (I have Infinity Kappa components waiting in a box)
Maybe sub/amp (have sub and a 4+1 amp - but I may just get a little mono amp)
Front tube bumper / skidplate
Winch
Sliders
Rear tube bumper
New seats (have 4Runner seats but they're old and shitty)
20" LED bar on bumper
Tundra brakes
255/85/16 or 285/75/16 tires (now thinking about 315/75/16) (need wheels as well)
Icon extended travel coilovers with UCA's
GT30/GT35 turbocharger (CX Racing has manifolds/crossover/downpipe) - this'll happen when I have a spare spare vehicle and/or a replacement motor waiting to drop in. Will require replacing fuel pump, injectors, clutch, and deciding on OBDII-compliant engine management (AEM FIC, Megasquirt running parallel, etc).

 

good looking truck.
seems like you have lots of plans for her

 

Nice truck, good luck on the build and maintenance.

This might help the pedal squeal.

 

Thanks. I'm guessing it's the pin/clevice squeaking - on my MR2 it actually wore an oval hole in the pedal over time, so I drilled it out and put a bearing in to replace the factory nylon bushing. I removed my spring entirely, since it has already ripped its way completely through the bracket.

 

Installed new stuff.



Used ratchet straps to align the axle with the spring - bumpstops are allegedly unnecessary with OME springs due to the overloads:


I discovered I had no battery tie down rod, which caused the battery to bounce around - sent a nice spark through the fender/hood gap the other night. So, I fixed that using the retainers that OME used to hold the shocks in a compressed state for shipping:




I measured a 4" gain in the back. It should settle some, though.


I briefly tried to adjust the coilovers on the truck, but they're pretty seized up. I'll either have to disassemble them first, try soaking them in lube for a while, or just replace them with Icons. wtb winning lottery ticket.

 

still not a bad idea to use bumpstops

 

If I do run them, I will worry about it after I install the u-bolt flip -- I can't do much of anything now without an extended brake line, so it's not going to play very hard for a little while.

 

Yeah, I'm just saying. Get the rest completed first like the ubolt flip and definitely want to get the longer brakeline, then tackle the bumpstops.

 

I installed a longer brake line today - I'm using a spring to pull the slack out horizontally so it doesn't catch on anything. I was going to run the spring from the bed crossbrace, but then the brake line would be touching either the wire bundle going to the rear diff, or the rod for the rear proportioning valve. I went a bit longer than necessary, but I should never have to worry about it being too short. It's a very gentle spring, so I am not worried about it upsetting the proportioning valve by having it attached there.



Next will be the proportioning valve bracket - waiting for paint to dry on a piece of flat stock.

I also added a helper spring to my parking brake bracket, but I'm not sure if that merits a picture.