Just Between You, Me, and the Bingo Card: Life Lessons from the Assisted Living Facility

Down to the tank bolsters and straps, toolbox for the back, draw bar and whatever little farkles that may end up on it. Need a tiny belt to leave bundled up on the back so it's ready to power shit up.
Rosie




https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tvfMcp_skjs

 

Not much done today, had to work on my week off.
These tiny pieces take a bit of time to do and not break anything. A fuckup at this stage would really bum me out.
Drilled out the "back" of the box to re-route the wires, added some loom to hide the wires.

Added lumber to make a "chase" for the wires to hide and a shelf for the battery. None of this is visible when it's together.

tank bolsters

these 4 teeny brass screws with slotted heads and hard wood that was pre-drilled with a pin vise, took two episodes of Young Sheldon to complete.


Cleaned that wire nest right up.

Milled several board inches of tiny lumber, cut to length and it's glued and drying to make the utility box for the back. Tomorrow or weekend project.

 

https://www.temu.com/ul/kuiper/un9....Qn81TAHtsHaVp2d4xUkLT9l5QXbown8RoCs9wQAvD_BwE

Next Challenge

 

Nothing is more exciting than chasing a hot flaming metal toy around a track, trying to hit the finger scalding lever controls to slow it down before it topples on the hardwood floor.

 

Watching glue dry. Might be making two of these tool boxes, this one I made short for some reason, if it looks ok, it stays. Otherwise I'll make another a bit longer. Depends on if I left enough room to stash the battery plug.

This one, needs a slight cam job. Some of the knocking is from the cam/rocker arm roller interface, a bit of a peak on the high part of the cam lobe, drops the roller off abruptly. Maybe a slight massage on the peak will help it roll smoother. Otherwise, it's pretty cool.
The other knock is the check ball in the water pump. That's just how it is.
Paint job is shit, so that will make a nice winter project to disassemble and repaint. Maybe just the cylinder, the rest isn't bad. 9.1cc's
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v6Z_8YEn9-Y

 

Decided to go full length on the box so wires aren't crammed in so tight.
Framed it over the bolts, looked weird surrounding them, this adds character.
Debating on hinges for the lid, possibly leather, or just glue it down. It would be neat to hinge it and install a micro switch on the inside for power, or just make it easier to get to the plug.
I made it fit tight so it won't bounce around. Still needs the sides sanded, glue is drying.

 

Happy Christmas Eve!

Back to this little blue one. I thought I had burned up the CDI box, but a failure on another engine had me rethinking that.
These are hall sensors. They don't like heat or vibration, perfect for small engine use.
The small one failed on another engine, and after testing, realized the same had happened on this one. While I do have a spare for the blue one, there is a better way.

Micro switch and timing wheel on the crank reversed.

Timing bump. Just some sheet styrene CA'd to the wheel.

A little splicing.

Open, it spins counter clockwise from this side. But there tweak on the tab allows rotation both directions



Runs better now than it ever did. Hall sensors produce small voltage signals to do their thing, and they apparently can be inconsistent.
The switch, simple contacts, is consistent every time.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=euRR0kAmcNk

 

Looks like a steampunk hearse.


added some more engineering and shit.




Draw bar is last and my creative juices are diminished, so taking a small break until i figure that simple thing out.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oboBJEQVwZE

 

Those hall sensors are crap. No wonder so many full size vehicles fail when the crank (hall) sensor takes a shit.
I can do better.
The little micro switch's are performing quite well and I enjoyed the challenge of mounting one up and having it work. i did destroy one switch. The little piece of thread is glued to the blade to keep it from being ripped off if the engine should rotate backwards, and that did happen. Keeps it aligned.
Trial and error.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UBW6LhXvgIA

 

Made a box to conceal stuff on another little display engine.

 

This is a two piece pushrod that is sloppy as hell and a royal pain to adjust.

This is a finish nail that happens to be 3mm and damn near the exact length I needed. Just had to grind off the tip and round off the head and make some threads.

Fuckin mint.

 

Did some dress up on the hot bulb simulator.
Replaced the plastic fuel line with brass. Huge visual improvement.
Covered the wire with 1/4" split loom.
Replaced the copper fitting exhaust pipe with a nice straight pipe that matches in color and gets the oil splatter away from the shiny things.
Made the little wooden box to hide the electronics.
Replaced the water with a 80/20 mix of water and Toyota red antifreeze, heavy on the water side for better cooling.
And finally, the piece de resistance, the miniature brass cylinder oiler that actually works.
That really finished it off.





https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZI0GZ4oMagc

This is the original that was copied. Made by Find Hansen of Denmark.
Notice there is no wire and no spark plug.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UGksYSwFucI

 

Happy New Year!
I been posting stupid videos to youtube for years now, and none have gained the attention and comments that these little engines have.
I have like 7 followers now!

Installed a hot rod exhaust pipe on the blue one. The original was prone to scattering oil in 360 degrees, this one directs it away as it should.
Was originally a Coleman pump tube, has been sitting on the work bench for years, a spare in case one of my others needed replaced.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1fV-kBQWeGo

 

The MK1 needs a base makeover. It deserves better than packing grade lumber.
And it needs to be heavy, pine ain't gonna cut it. It jumps a bit. But it will be simple, looking more like a 1-2hp engine on a simple hand cart as opposed to a large 25hp unit mounted on horse drawn wagon.
Hickory. That board was only $5.

40yo Chinese bandsaw never skipped a beat, surprised me. Hickory is some hard dense wood.

 

thats a steal, from where?!

 

Sears Trostel in FoCo.
The lady showed me some of it, quoted something I didn't want to pay, lost interest, then she said, "how about $5 a board? We have a surplus of mill ends"
So it came home with me. Along with another $13 board that I can't spell or pronounce the species.
At that price and quantity, it's a better deal than the firewood bundles for the same price, more of it, and it burns hotter.

 

Oddly similar color and grain, but the weight is doubled.

The new CDI box showed up today, and even though the old one is working, I'm gonna use the new one as it can handle higher voltage. I have a teeny little 2S lipo that should give it a couple hours of runtime.

Plenty of room. For now though, the battery resides outside until i figure out the switch scenario.


The fuel tank looked out of scale/place. So will be making a smaller one. Going from 1" to 3/4" dia.
Looking for a location.


I think this is the spot. Nestled between the rails, and I can run a brass pickup tube from the mixer intake, down to the bottom inside of the tank. Keep it clean. Maybe do a filler tube with a little cap, syringe filled...

The back is unfinished for a minute. That axle is a section of gas pipe, inside are two brass fittings, and thru that runs 1/4x20 all thread, along with 2" castor wheels and 2" long brass bushings for the wheels. All bolted down solid just to add weight. It does not turn.

This shot made me see that the engine block is not centered on the stainless steel. I thought it looked crooked, just a matter of loosening the bolts and shifting it, which was by design to make it less stressful to square shit up. Amazing what pictures can show that the eye can't see.

 

Things change, gotta be flexible.
Did an experiment to see how low the mixer would draw from. Turns out it's not very low.

And setting it above the mixer caused flooding.
So here we are. I guess it helps cover the axle as well.

I might just run the fuel line thru the bulkhead. And I might not.


Wire is temporarily permanent.

Seems to help with the needed weight too.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pkyj0iDL6kY

 

Friday night and I'm sitting home bending tube.

Looks better than silicone or plastic line.

 

And it's done. For being such a simple design, it's far more work to get to the things hidden underneath. Gotta empty the fuel and water tank, flip it over, remove the bottom.
Or alternately, remove the 4 screws holding the wooden motor mount to the cart, and lift off from the top, after removing the fuel tank as well to disconnect the soft line connection at the rear.

Everything on Rosie is fully accessible while she sits on her wheels.
Added 12 rounds of .44 round balls behind the wheels and that was enough weight to hold it firm on a level surface.