Just bought used Tacoma - I think it's leveled - Verify?

Replace those spacers up front with a 2" Bilstein 5100 lift, and get an alignment. Your ride will improve quite a lot. You can always replace the rear RC shocks down the road if you don't like the rough ride, with rear 5100's.

I wouldn't go any higher than a 1" block in the rear, and your Taco will be perfectly level. As it looks now, it's higher in the back, not level.

 

It appears to be lifted 3/2 which may give a bit of a rougher ride with those shocks.
Hopefully they did the ECGS bearring delete. Any vibration while driving and what does your CV angle look like? (Are any of the ribs on the CV boots touching one another?)
You may also get axle wrap with a 2" lift block, AAL or new leaf pack is better for a trying above 1".

I'd say drop it down to 2, 1.5 personally.
Or 2/1 of you want to do blocks and pucks.

3" front lift is pretty high for the factory UCA, may have a hard time with steering wheel return, bump steer and a few other issues caused by low caster, anything past 2 and you really want an aftermarket UCA for better alignment and steering.

 

Those N3 shocks are actually among a tiny number of somewhat decent items to come from Rough Country (I had them on mine for about a year before I went to Fox). They were a noticeable improvement over the factory shocks my TRD Sport had.

Where you may want to upgrade though is your front shocks (and getting rid of those spacers). I don't know how the OE Limited shocks compare, but the OE shocks on my Sport were garbage. They rode well on smooth roads, but dips at intersections and speed humps in residential areas quickly sent the truck slamming onto its bumpstops (forget about the bumps & dips off road).

Another vote for Bilstein 5100s, which can be set up to match your current lift height (but like has been said, if it's currently over 2.5", you may want to lower it a bit to save your frontend components).

What are your measurements from the center of the wheel hubs to the bottom edge of the fenders above?

 

Drive it as is for awhile.Never change things just for the sake of changing. It may be perfectly fine for your needs as is. If not, then you will have a good idea what you want, and then make the necessary changes.

 

I agree, at this point I want to be sure that whatever was done before is not causing (or going to cause) an issue. I have no idea if the lift was done properly and considered potential issues that some folks mention above. At this point I'll likely just gather all the info here and then need to go to a shop and have them take a look. I just want to be a tiny bit knowledgable when I go to a shop so they don't sell me things I don't really need.

 

Thanks for your help here, I'll take measurement and post later today.

 

Another option if you’d like to go back to stock and keep it budget friendly is to watch the sales forum here.

I picked up OEM TRD Off Road shocks and struts with maybe 500 miles on them for a very reasonable price. It was the cheapest option when I replaced the suspension on my 2010 a fews ago, and kept the truck OEM (which helped when I traded it in on my current Tacoma).

Folks will put a lift on a brand new truck and sell the stock suspension.

FWIW, the OEM Off Road suspension is softer than the Sport suspension. I prefer the OR.

 

WTF are tax returns?

 

Measurements from center of the wheel hub to edge of fenders are all 23 1/2"

 

I would pay good money to see the reaction of TW members being told this by their wives

 

If my wife said my tires look too small then I would go bigger! You’ve now got to please the wife! If you can swing it, I would do 5100s without the front spacer on shocks, change the rear blocks to 1 inch, get an alignment, and get larger tires, but not too large. I like slight rear rake stance also, and a shop can adjust the front 5100s to get you the look you want. My ride improved greatly once I got the 5100 shocks installed. But I hardly ever go off road. Trust me there will be lots of opinions on lifts and tires.

 

Someons probably already mentioned this, but with just the spacer lift in the front- you run the risk of over compressing the shocks since the bump stop is practically irrelevant anymore and the stock shocks aren't that strong. Theres quite a few pictures of borken front shocks- they snap just above the bottom eye or bend the piston.

SFW:
https://www.google.com/search?sca_e...HQ1xO7QQtKgLegQIExAB&biw=1280&bih=631&dpr=1.5

 

So you're right at 2.5" lift (I think stock is 21" on all but the Pro? Someone can correct me if I'm wrong).
2" lift (or 23") is generally where you would want to be if component longevity is most important. Some guys do run 2.5" as a mild compromise to get a tad more clearance, but I certainly would suggest having it no higher than that.