Just entered the 285 game. Rubbing on mudflap.

You should not need a CMC for 285's, really only necessary for going up to 35's if the rest of your alignment is properly set (provided you don't have crazy negative offset wheels).

 

I have good good alignment specs. My caster with my JBA uca’s is at +3.8 degrees, but my 16”x8” SCS Ray 10’s are -12 offset. From my reading, I’ll probably need a CMC???

 

I'm nowhere close to my cab mounts with nearly the same wheel specs with 285/70's. This forum makes it seem like you need it for even going 1 size bigger but it's really not necessary unless you go with a really aggressive fitment or giant tires.

With those specs you should be able to just pop on a set of 33's and not have to touch anything.

 

Thank you! That’s very encouraging! Once I burn these 265’s down, I think I’ll give 285’s a shot. Do you have UCA’s?

 

I’m on 285’s with 3.5* caster, 1.5” lift, -10 17x8’s and they rubbed like crazy until I chopped the mount. I’m still rubbing plastic when aired down and off-road.

If you off-road with 285’s you will need to cmc, heck I rubbed 265’s off road with these same wheels.

 

Yes jba hd's

Weird.. I offroad and haven't rubbed on the cab mount at all with wider wheels of the same specs. I have more caster though. I should be able to fit 34's without even having to go anywhere near altering that mount. Irish get the tires before you go hacking up the truck.

 

Must be a new thing. My set from 2019 didn't come with that rubber spacer.

 

then trim your fenders and truck body and do a CMR. Now THAT IS commitment and also lose the mudflaps and most tires will fit

 

I have not experienced any rubbing since I tightened up and moved my mudflaps back a smidge. All good. Loving the 33's. No Regrets. The idea of 35s even popped into my mind today LOL. And i am only a 2.7 MT.

 

Thank you for this. I have the same spec wheels and noticed with no lift my 265/75/17's come really close to the front of the front wheel wells and rub in the back of them and I was thinking if I add a bunch of caster it'll definitely hit up front. Waiting til spring to go for a lift.

 

Got new tires today. Im not gonna lie for the longest time i had so much trouble with tire sizes. I looked on the forums and did so much research. Before i go on and say talk about tires. I have bilstien 5100 all around that gave me 2.5 inches of lift but settled at 2
a block spacer in the rear, stock coils, stock leaf springs. The first pic is a set of bfg ko2 (265/70/16) no rubbing scrubbing or trimming even off road
My second set of tires are yokohama geolanders mt g003 (285/75/16) and no rubbing or scrubbing or trimming at full lock have not tried off roading or anything but i still have 2 inches from my uca and space for days at the cab mount.
also my wheels are cheap lvl 8 mk6 (16 inch wheel) and -10 offset
I really hope this helps anyone thinkin about 33s
Long story short 2-2.5 inch lift with -10 offset wheels for 285/75/16 is perfect for me atleast

 

Looks good, definitely try and cycle it, depending on your caster the wheel cycles up and toward the firewall which collapses the gap to the cab mount pretty quickly.

 

Has anyone here hammered back there firewall? I'm trying to fit 255 85 17 -12 4.28 bs with no lift. I've already done a cmr, removed the inner fender, cut and hammered the pinch weld flat, trimmed two inches off the fenders, installed spc ucas and had a high caster alignment done. No rubbing on the cab, pinch weld, frame or othere suspension components just the firewall about 3 inches in from the pinch weld and 3-4 inches above the cab mount.Is there's anything behind the firewall in that area I need to know about before I bust out the hand sledge? Am I wasting my time? Should I just have it tubbed or get a lift?

 

What are your SPCs and Cams set to? Show us a pic of those. I m haven’t seen anyone struggle with pizza cutters and you’ve done more work than me with 35s.

 

So the alignment is 4.1 degrees of positive caster 0 camber .02 toe in. They said I could go up to about 6 degrees but that I wouldn't like the way it handles, something about return to center.

Edit: not shown here but the other side is the same

 

So ideally you want the front cam tab outward and the rear cam tab inward. This will maximize wheel space. From there you can use the SPC to adjust caster to line 2 degrees or something.

With a super high caster it pulls the wheel into the firewall on compression. Something between 0-2 is good for fitment and driving characteristics.

There is a great post here on post #138. There is link to it in the first post that explains how alignments work to help with tire fitment.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-those-that-wheel-and-love-alignments.594309/

 

I ran 285s on a 3in lift with no rubbing off roading. My wheels were 9 wide with a +10 offset and I just added a 1/4in spacer to clear the factory UCA.

 

What kind of Flaps are those?

 

I’m so glad you posted this, you have the exact same specs as me and I’ve been trying to figure out specifically if I can fit the 285 Yoko’s without doing any extra work.

I can’t thank you enough for posting this info! If you have any additional side pictures of your truck with the new Yoko’s, I’d love to see them to get an idea of how they look. I will also be going up from 265/75/16’s.

 

If you’re willing to trim a little and hammer it’s possible. Gas mileage will suck tho. I’m running 35s on the M/T 4cyl. Not too bad to be honest on the road for me.