just ordered the beck arnley master brake cylinder off ebay

2006 4.0 auto, 255klm / 158k miles.

just ordered the beck arnley master brake cylinder off ebay. I will let you all know if it fits.

all in cost for me in canada was $87 canadian as opposed to $450 from the dealership!!!! wtf!!!! I can guarantee the parts are not THAT different.

Anyway, I will let you all know. I have the mushy pedal to the floor and went through the testing motions:

- car off. pump break. got hard. booster is good.
- turn car on, the hard break went soft, again, booster is good.
- car on, pump like crazy to build up pressure then maintain pressure and pedal falls to floor.
- no leaks.
- did fluid flush, there were no bubbles and fluid was clean.
- adjusted rear shoes, they were perfect and didn't even need to be adjusted.
(I had my break fluid and rear brakes rebuilt last year).


later. VikingTrad3r

this is what i ordered. the one i ordered was ll in 87$
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brake-Maste...2-9802-fits-05-08-Toyota-Tacoma-/301658866356

 

it arrived today. should have it installed it within 48 hrs and will report back.

 

unfortunately, i cannot issue a positive report on this item, or this seller, who goes by autopartsupreme and does have a 99.6% positive rating, at this point in time. I have sent the seller an email and we will see how they follow up with it but it is not looking good so far. I will give the ebay seller the benefit of the doubt until they get back to me and tell me how they are going to deal with the issue. i will certainly report back here. i have also linked them through to this forum thread to see that other people may be watching.

 

As you can see there is a spout or a drain included on the replacement one. On the OEM version this drain is not present. I took the yellow cap off that you see in the picture and took the inside of a bic pen and pushed it back through thinking maybe this is some kind of universal fit and they simply did not bore out the hole. The pen did not push through and when I looked through I could not see a hole and because of the shape of the master cylinder I could not see if there was any band or hole in the plastic all I knew is that the big pan did not push into the master cylinder so I assumed while this boat was present the whole was not actually Milled in the side of the Master cylinder reservoir. I uninstalled the OEM one and began the bench bleeding process of the new one. That is when I discovered that all of the fluid I had put in was draining out the drain tube which must have a hole in it even though my bic pen didn't fit through it so it must be smaller than the inside of a bic pen.

so now I have my failed OEM master cylinder on the bench and the master cylinder that is very close to being a 2006 master cylinder but not quite. I thought about trying some plugging message for this but I never forgive myself if my wife was driving the truck and something happened to the plug that I jimmy rigged in.

so I will clean up the fluid which is all over my floor and I will wait and see what the seller does. I do know from the eBay add that they do not include a photograph of the side of the master cylinder if they had, I would've been able to tell that there was this extra drain spout and I would've been able to ask a question about it.

and yes you're probably thinking I should have tested this one first before I pulled off my OEM one, and you are correct I should have. come to think of it, i should have blown through the spout back into the mastercylinder.

 

Thank You, DDing. I appreciate the information. I would have preferred them to specify as such on their ad so I could have found the applicable one for my truck. THey do not seem to differentiate, and do not include a cap to cap it off. So, as far as I see it, they need to send me the right one or, send me a factory approved capping system.

In the event that they fail to do so, which i what my guess will be, how would you go about capping this?

 

Also, as far as swapping reservoirs, i would be happy to attempt this, but are there not some sort of seal between the base of the res and the mc housing? Are these basic orings?

 

Thanks for the information. I am in a hurry! I just do not like the idea of having jimmy rigging in my brake system. i understand that the brake fluid resistant hose is probably easily found, and that a correspond brake fluid resistant plug is also probably sourceable locally, but now i have to spend another 2 hours on this when i thought i had purchased what i needed for my truck. nowhere did they specify between automatic or manual transmission. one would think they would at lease provide a toyota approved capping system.

thank you for the info DDing. much appreciated. Worst case i can make this work!

 

OK, what about pressure ratings? like are we talking big pressure here?

 

The seller has responded promptly and has asked for more information about the truck. I have provided them again with the link to the post and informed them of the difference btwn the auto and the manual trans that was unfortunately not distinguised in the ad. Thank you again and i will keep you updated.

This is a great price on a mc for these trucks compared to the dealership, so hopefully this gets resolved and we can buy from this provider.

 

Several marquees I've had in the past a new master did not come with any reservoir, just the cast cylinder. You needed to swap over your original one. It wasn't a big deal. The reservoir is not pressurized, it's just a holding tank.

As doording suggests, I'd certainly be looking into that swap to get you back on the road faster.

 

Ok I did it. used a small punch compined with old drill bits, swapped the reservoirs. re installed a bench bled mc. now i need to do each wheel.

thanks all. i will teport back to tell you if the mc works well, and, if the tank seap works out without any leaking. its just a pressfit into two orings.

thank you!

 

appears that the reservoir swap trick worked. thank you Clearwater Bill and DDing! bled the lines, i can activate the abs now on dry pavement. good stuff. i think im going to get a reverse bleeder. seems like alot of fluid is wasted trying to draw down bubbles that want to go up instead of down.

As for the seller, i wont be using them again for anything, they claimed it was ebays fault for the incomplete add information (specifying auto vs manual) and said "he would try and get ebay to change it. its 100% thier responsability to ensure THIER ad for THIER product is representative of the product shipped so in my books they fall flat on thier face and get a zero just by way of excuses.

That said, the mc does work, it just took me an extra 3 hours of dogf$&&ing to make it work and my time is worth more than i saved on the product so the way i look at it, these guys owe me for mh time they stole by misrepresenting thier part.

I realize most people may feel thats harsh towards them as they do have a 99% rating. It was the bs excuses on thier part that really miffed me. grow a set and say "whoops what is your address we will overnight you the correct product and you can return the incorrect one in the box we send the new one in, with a prepaid shipping label which will be in the box".

I am a business owner and in my experience that is how to earn and keep a customer for life.


Anyway, if the orings start leaking because of the reservoir swap i will let you know.

Cheers all and if i could buy you guys a starbucks i would!

 

bleh. unfortunatly this repair did not work. i have bled 4 times since installing the new mastercylinder and my brakes are the exact same.

so this would suggest that i have some other problem somewhere.

Anybody have any experience with fixing spongy brakes thag go to the floor? if i pump them while stopping they are better. this is what sent me towards replacing the m/c.

Any comments or help in a direction appreciated. thnx.

 

ok, i have to deal with this. i had a friend borrow the truck and he was real concerned. truck stops fine if you double pump and even better if you tripple pump.

just to be sure, i cycled the pump on snowy roads, then did another bleed. there is no air in the system.

i have a new mc. beck arny. maybe it is faulty??

what are the possible causes of a pedal that goes to the floor?

ive read every thread on the internet about this and second gen tacos.

One thing left for me to try is ill put a caliper on the rubber hose and then have ny wife pump the brakes to see if they are flexing.

Is it possible the rear brakes are adjusted too loose so pressure is being used up to move them too far?

Im really frustrated!

 

This may sound crazy but check your front wheel bearings. A few years back I had replaced one of mine with a cheap ebay unit and after about a week it was REALLY loose. Like to the point of kicking the pistons in the caliper in so every time I hit the brakes after it moved it was like I had bad master cylinder. I re-tightened the axle nut and it's been fine for the last 15k miles.

 

Hi and thanks!

I recall reading a threa abut this, maybe yours?

1. Were you hearing any signs of a worn wheelbearing and

2. was your pedal going all the way to the ground?

Im really doubting it is my mc because

a) its a brand new bench bled unit with 7 bleeds afterwards and no air

and b) with truck off, it takes only 2 pumps to make and hold a hard pedal.

doesnt that indicate there is no pressure loss around the piston?

 

I had zero noise from the bearing. And I've changed 5 of them on second gens so I know what they sound like. Pedal would go all the way to the floor, then second pump it would stop fine. I actually thought it was the master and changed it out first. Used the beck arnley one but I got the one specifically for autos so I didn't have to swap the reservoir like you did. When I jacked up the truck and noticed the slop in the bearing it was obvious what was causing it. Tightened it up and it's been fine ever since.

 

well thank you sir your symptoms match mine to the T.

Ill check and report back.

 

solved:

2 years ago i paid a shade tree mechanic to do a rear brake job on my taco.

turns out he forgot to attach the wratchet assembly with the spring that locks the adjustor nut on the rear driver side. the result is that it was completely lossened off.

so the reason i was pumping the brake one time was that the rear shoes were on the driver side were in maximum loose position, far away from the drum, and the first pump of the pedal was used to push the pads outwards then a quick repeat pump allowed pressure against the drum.

the springs pulled the pads a long way back from the drum after each release of the brake pedal which is why i had to pump fast.

all fixed, no going to the floor anymore.