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Just wired lights they are not working.

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by Gabassman, Mar 2, 2012.

  1. Mar 2, 2012 at 9:24 PM
    #1
    Gabassman

    Gabassman [OP] Drive it like a 4WD

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    I just wired bed lights into the pockets of in the bed. The lights are the blazer off road lights from walmart(maybe the problem but I hope not). The lights will not light up after wiring them Ive checked all my connections and the inline fuse and all is good. Ive attached how i have ran my wiring. Maybe my thought process is wrong. Any help from those with more expertise would be very much appreciated.

    Light diagram.jpg
     
  2. Mar 2, 2012 at 9:38 PM
    #2
    Jerez

    Jerez SoCal LED Dash Swap

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    Half LT dont count
    If you wired them as you say on that diagram.......then they should work.
    You have a volt meter to check n make sure there's voltage running thru?
     
  3. Mar 2, 2012 at 9:46 PM
    #3
    Gabassman

    Gabassman [OP] Drive it like a 4WD

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    I don't have a volt meter here with me right now. Ill have to check it tomorrow if its not raining. Just kinda aggravating. .
     
  4. Mar 3, 2012 at 5:52 AM
    #4
    Icepuck72

    Icepuck72 Well-Known Member

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    always check that you have a good ground....this is usually the culprit.
     
  5. Mar 3, 2012 at 1:43 PM
    #5
    Gabassman

    Gabassman [OP] Drive it like a 4WD

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    Got em working. Went to lowes and got a volt meter. My grounding point was fine. the t-tap on my ground wire was loose. fixed and now i have light now i need some bad ass off road lights for the front and some better back up lights.
     
  6. Mar 9, 2012 at 6:37 PM
    #6
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    T-Taps are the work of the devil.

    Strip, twist, solder, waterproof heat-shrink or heat-shrink and ScotchKote.

    All T-Taps will eventually fail.
     
  7. Mar 9, 2012 at 6:57 PM
    #7
    MonkeyProof

    MonkeyProof Power Top

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    you should use a 30amp relay in your wiring as well, otherwise you risk a vehicle fire!
    [​IMG]


    here is how you should correctly wire your auxiliary lights using a 30amp relay!!!


    [​IMG]
     
  8. Mar 9, 2012 at 7:01 PM
    #8
    MonkeyProof

    MonkeyProof Power Top

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    here is another diagram that is even easier to follow:D

    [​IMG]
     
  9. Mar 9, 2012 at 7:07 PM
    #9
    Boilermaker99

    Boilermaker99 555

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    So right on about the relay. I just had this discussion on another thread. They are lifesavers.

    Keep the voltage in the engine compartment not the cab (which a relay will do). If not you have all that amprage sitting on one side of the switch and they will melt and burn. By using a relay all the switch does is energize the relay to turn the lights on and off rather than make/break power. Super eassy to wire up and super safe.
     
  10. Mar 9, 2012 at 7:37 PM
    #10
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    A 30 amp fuse running through 18ga wire to the switch is also risking a vehicle fire, as would be (marginally) anything smaller than 12ga from the relay to the lights.

    80% rule.
    Continuous load no greater than 80% of the fuse value
    Fuse value no greater than 80% of the circuit design.

    30 amp relay is okay with 14ga wire (rated to 32a), but it should not be run with a fuse larger than 24a.

    The 18ga wire going to the switch should have it's own fuse (less than 13a)... or if the switch is only a 3a switch, then it should have a 2.5a fuse (regardless of the wire size). In this case, the 18ga wire is simply for durability.
     
  11. Mar 9, 2012 at 7:47 PM
    #11
    MonkeyProof

    MonkeyProof Power Top

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    Nice ..great info to know!
     
  12. Mar 9, 2012 at 8:07 PM
    #12
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    Just for reference:

    24ga = 3.5a = 2.8a fuse = 2.24a load continuous
    22ga = 7a = 5.6a fuse = 4.48a load
    20ga = 11a = 8.8a fuse = 7.04a load
    18ga = 16a = 12.8a fuse = 10.24a load continuous
    16ga = 22a = 17.6a fuse = 14.08a load continuous
    14ga = 32a = 25.6a fuse = 20.48a load continuous
    12ga = 41a = 32.8a fuse = 26.24a load continuous
    10ga = 55a = 44a fuse = 35.2a load continuous
    8ga = 73a = 58.4a fuse = 46.72a load continuous
    6ga = 101a = 80.8a fuse = 64.64a load continuous
    4ga = 135a = 108a fuse = 86.4a load continuous

    ;)
     
  13. Mar 10, 2012 at 10:53 AM
    #13
    caribe makaira

    caribe makaira Lurker No More

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    If all that info were 100% true we'd have to sue toyota to rewire the whoe vehicle.
     
  14. Mar 10, 2012 at 4:58 PM
    #14
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    Why so?

    I've not looked into the details on my Tacoma, but I've never encountered a vehicle that did not follow that with the exception of the battery cables, but that is not a continuous load.
     
  15. Mar 10, 2012 at 5:33 PM
    #15
    Hunt89

    Hunt89 Active Member

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    thanks rich. im a commercial electrician in canada and obviously know the ratings for building wiring but didnt know those specs for vehicles.
     
  16. Mar 10, 2012 at 5:45 PM
    #16
    grizquad

    grizquad Well-Known Member

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    Very good info. Defiantly agree with the relay, as I work with them on refrigeration units and very rarely have I had a relay fail, its usually something else in the circuit. The info on the ga/ fuse /continuous load is very good info. Thanks
     
  17. Mar 10, 2012 at 6:22 PM
    #17
    Gabassman

    Gabassman [OP] Drive it like a 4WD

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    This is goin to have to take more looking at to understand everything. But i do need to clean up the wiring so i might as well redo it right like stated above.
     
  18. Mar 10, 2012 at 7:09 PM
    #18
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    Ya, NEC has no spec on anything smaller than 18.. and they aren't as liberal as my chart, BUT I'm pretty sure the NEC spec is for max breaker size and not 100% of the wire capacity. Looking at it that way, the NEC is just a bit more stringent than my chart, and still below my "load" column.
     
  19. Mar 10, 2012 at 7:12 PM
    #19
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    It's never going to hurt to go with a larger wire.
    Especially in a vehicle, it's going to be more durable, easier to "dress" into the harness, and less likely to be damaged from chaffing (sharp edges should still be avoided or padded).

    Personally, I'll try to go at least one wire gauge larger than the fuse would normally be good for, and it's rare that I use anything smaller than 14 for anything but speakers or a relay switching circuit.... I'll use 18 on those, but fuse the relay switching circuit at 3a
     
  20. Mar 10, 2012 at 8:17 PM
    #20
    Hunt89

    Hunt89 Active Member

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    yah the NEC is over kill for sure but better safe then sorry
     
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