K&N Typical Durability

Quick question to those who use K&N filter, do you replace it eventually after certain amount of mileage, i have my original K&N and have over 89k over it, still appears to be good shape, but curious if overtime they loose their durability even after washes and re-oil process etc. Any feedback would be appreciated.

 

I had 106k on one in my Gen1 - don't think it lost "durability" - either it's all together or it isn't. Sorta like being pregnant. Either is or isn't. I wouldn't use one with a large hole or tearing at sealing surfaces but mostly it just rides there and allows air to go through it - not a lot of real "wear" on it.

 

Not sure if K&Ns changed, but I don't use air filters that I can hold up to the sun and see through. The reason they flow better is because they filter poorly.

If I see a K&N in a used car I'm looking at, I go home and keep looking. OEM filter flows better than the engine needs and filters well.

 

I'll never own another for the same reasons you stated.

 

With care, there is no need to replace them. Use the cleaning kit and drop it back in.

 

They work good. Clean them every three or four oil changes. Use k and n pink soap and oil liberally with their pink oil. Wait till it soaks in good. Wipe off and reinstall.
Never had a problem. 200k and 300k motors came to valve jobs before loss of ring seal. Keep your oil changed.

 

As long as you clean and oil it (and there are no tears, rips etc) you are fine.

I quit using them and just throw a factory OEM one in every couple years. They are 25-30$ and last for 20-30k miles no problem.

 

Only issue i had with a k&n air filter was when it was newly installed. The oiling on it kept setting off my engine check light. The mass air flow sensor kept becoming fouled. After i cleaned, dried, and lightly oil the filter myself i had no more issues.

 

You CAN over-oil a K&N filter which will cause issues with mass air sensors. You also should wait at least 20 min for the oil to disperse in the cotton before installing. I don't use K&N on engines that have mass air sensors.

 

they have more flow because of less filtration. better for short-term performance but bad for long-term durability as it lets more particles into the engine.

 

The one in my FJ Cruiser has 169K happy miles on it and going strong. I pull it out about every 50K to clean and re-oil.

 

Old wife’s tale.

Been using oiled filters for about 16 years now, never once had an issue with MAF.

I was an idiot recently and applied a bit too much oil and when I walked up
To my taco in the morning, I saw a puddle of oil underneath. Cleaned up the oil from engine bay, checked the filter, looked fine. My MAF sensor is working great.

FWIW my buddies also use K&N and none of them had issues with MAFs.

 

I've heard a couple people repeat this, but is it necessarily true? Couldn't they just be thicker to allow for more air to flow through without sacrificing surface area to capture particles? For example, a thicker furnace filter will allow more air to flow through than a slimmer one with the same filtration rating.

 

We can agree to disagree there. I have had issues and I have cleaned MAFs on other cars to fix drive-ability issues... Oil mist on MAFs is no good as it collects dust and dirt over time. To be fair to K&N, most MAF issues are caused by over-oiling.

 

They post the filtration efficiency in the specs if you want to look. it's not as efficient as an OEM style filter.

 

I haven't looked at the specs, but a quick google search found this article that ran various tests on K&N vs OEM filters. The test results showed that the OEM filter was more efficient, but the article noted: "The filtering efficiency test conducted on OEM and
K&N air filter shows that OEM air filter exhibits superior air filtering qualities compared to K&N filter. It should also be noted that the actual filtering efficiency of K&N air filter will be greater than obtained from the test. This was because in real life condition the actual air filter surface area exposed to dust is higher compared to that exposed during the test." https://www.sciencedirect.com/scien...my tests shows,both new and clogged condition.

Do the efficiency measurements take total surface area into account, or is it just measured per square inch or something?

I'm more curious than anything, as I have no intent on using anything but an OEM filter.

 

I'm running the k&n Blackhawk dry filter on my k&n performance series intake . Easy maintenance. Rinse warm water and let dry. I run a filter sock also . Helps keep the little bugs out of the fins of filter

 

No experience with K&N, but with AFE's drop-in filter, I've seen the rubber gasket crack from dry-rotting. So that would be one indicator to replace it.

 

The oil stops the particles. In fact K&N filters work a little better once they get a little dirty. Just oil liberally wait till the oil absorbs. The excess will drain off on to the rag, set it on an angle. Wipe it dry and install.

 

OEM panel or the whole enchilada?

It's my belief, the chances increase with the cone-style filter/intake and a MAF located closer to the filter.