KB Voodoo Remote Start issues

I'm having issues with my remote start. When I first installed a month and a half ago, I tested it a couple times and it worked great. Put all of the interior plastics back on and the pickup would cycle (light acknowledgement, could hear pump starting up) but no motor turn.
I asked the company and they advised my splicers sucked. Tried to re-do connections with same sucky plastic splicers; now nothing happens at all, no acknowledgement.
Re-did wires with Posi-Tap connectors, still nothing at all.
Anyone else run into this and find a fix? Is there a reset I need to do on the module? The light turns green when I plug it back in. I'm at a frustrated loss and about to give up. I know actually splicing is better but I don't know how to do it and am afraid to try.
(It has taken me so long to check it again because I work graveyard this quarter and am a single Dad.)

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/155344-military-splice-how-to/
Check out this write up. I'm not a fan of posi taps so I went this route. Zero issues.

 

@Onetime27 Here is the manufacturer install guide: RSR Install Guide Tacoma is a "Type 3" install. Trouble light codes are on page 25. Solid green should mean it's okay. You kinda have to work at it to do a module reset, so that's unlikely to have happened.

Question - did you do the wiring re-do with the battery disconnected?

I would start by disconnecting the truck battery (neg terminal), waiting 15 minutes, reconnect, see if the behavior changes. Shot in the dark but easy enough to do. (guessing there may be a chance of the module getting confused if you were fiddling connections hot)

Next, I'd *triple* check every connection. Disconnect the battery first of course. Not just by wire color but also by connector pin number. Pay particular attention to the PTS and SLP wires/connections. Make 110% sure everything is connected up correctly. Also check and re-seat the DBALL2 connectors as well as any ECU connectors. Look at my signature for my writeup with others additional contributions, I have a bunch of photos that may be helpful.

My guess is either a confused module or a non-connected wire.

I'd also suggest pinging @KB Voodoo here, he's pretty responsive and I'm sure he'll see to it that you're taken care of on this.

 

Yeah. Positaps are the best of the vampire taps, but splicing or soldering remains the better choice IMHO.

Still, cutting into wire insulation on an expensive truck understandably makes folks nervous who haven't any experience doing it before...

However it's pretty easy to pick up some 24ga wire from Radio Shack and practice splices or soldering at your workbench until you're confident.

 

Howdy folks.

 

Keep us posted @Onetime27

 

I've never seen this done before. That is amazing! If I try to re-do again this could be a solid route thank you.

Thank you sir, I will try disconnecting the battery completely and see what happens. It was disconnected during re-do. I tried to reset the module thinking it needed it with the button on it. Got it to flash orange/red and reset. I will try it again after the battery disconnect. I know posi-taps aren't 100% but I'm pretty confident the connections are good now.

I need to learn how to solder, maybe in a couple years when I'm confident I'll try it on something worth over $20

 

Okay I just tried again and the module flashes 7 times red which showed this error:
3x OEM Lock Remote Start Activation was attempted when RFTD feature is disabled.
I have no idea what that means..

 

Can't say if that's normal or not since I configured my own unit with SmartStart enabled (RFTD Output Type = Smartstart). Default is "No RF Output". Not everything in the troubleshooting section indicates a problem, many just tell you whats going on.

On the plus side it sounds like it's talking to the truck, so the OBD connections should be good.

I'd focus on the PTS wire connection and see if KBVooDoo has more input.

 

Your welcome. I can't solder worth a crap so I went with that method. Very solid connection. Instead of using the mechanical wire strippers I used a little torch lighter to expose the wire. It's hard to see which groove your on with the strippers in such tight quarters. Last thing I wanted to do was cut one of those little wires in half on a truck with less than 500 miles on it at the time. Good luck with it, hope you get it squared away.

 

Pulled positive and negative off the battery for over an hour, reset remote start, still nothing.
The light on the remote start will turn green acknowledging it's programmed, and still flash red 7 times after I press the lock 3 times on my fob but nothing else happens.

 

Status of checking the connections are to the correct wires and that you have good contact? Particularly the PTS one?

 

I'm sure they're in the right place as it worked the first time and I checked the diagram again when I re-did them. I'm not very good at wiring things but to have bad connections twice?
Is there a safety setting that would restrict the remote start from working?

 

Probably only if the doors dont get locked, or the hood isn't closed. You'd have an indicator in the instrument cluster in either of those conditions.

The problem I think is going to be either the connectors or the unit's lost its programming -- shouldn't happen from what you claim, but when you've ruled out the possible...

My next step would be to validate all the connections, then pull it out and reprogram it. If you were in ATL I could help with that but you aren't, so you'll need to rely on KB VooDoo. Since you claim the connectors are fine, pick up the phone and call KB VooDoo. http://www.kbvoodoo.com/contact/