Keep Warping Brake Rotors Help!

Yeah I'm too lazy to read the post but I would say try new quality stock parts and see what happens.
Or take the money shotgun and do the upgrade while also using all new parts. The cost delta of those two is prob minimal, except for you have 15" wheels unfortunately.

 

my money is on calipers needing replaced/rebuilt.

I have a 5 lug but in general, brakes are brakes. I replaced rotors and pads a while ago and within a few months, they were already warped and starting to shimmy whilst braking. Replaced the calipers along with 2 more new rotors and a new set of pads and no issues yet.

I don't have any input on parts other than several people have praised Brembo rotors and Akebono pads.

 

More of the tighten one lug tighter then the rest is enough to make it feel like warped rotors

Were the supposed bad rotors checked with a dial indicator ??

Hot Rotors and Cold poodles don`t mix or rather puddles

 

I second this. Do it all. Calipers need replacing at some point. $ to donuts your problems go away

 

This. You'll snap wheel studs before warping rotors. Ask me how I know

(I had a Chinesium Capri Tools torque wrench that either clicked or didn't click depending on how quickly you applied torque. Nothing like replacing wheel studs when the truck is 4 months old...)

 

Jesus, how hard were you pulling on this torque wrench?

I mean, I'm not a fat guy, but pretty sure I can jump on my lug wrench and not snap a bolt (not that I've tried it, lol...)

 

my money is on the pads. to start with rotors do not warp (from normal use), they get build-up from the pads and the build-up creates brake judder. stop buying economically long life pads - buy a good (good as in high coefficient of friction at street temps) set of pads and your problem will be solved. look for carbon metallic or ceramic Kevlar(Aramid) pads.

however you will create a new set of problems, shorter life, more brake dust, cost, etc. but brake judder will not be one of them...

some examples of anti judder pads are:

PFC Carbon Metallic - $55
Hawk SuperDuty - $95
Hawk HP Plus $75
carbotech 1521 $140 (Ceramic Kevlar)
stoptech street select
Toyo TRD $90 Aramid/Ceramic, Aramid is a Kevlar type material.

 

The OEM (Sumitomo I think makes them?) pads are fantastic, as well as the Akebono pads for quality medium expense pad. Akebono makes many of the OEM pads for other Toyota models.

 

The key is bedding the brakes. 90% of the time the rotors aren't warped. Google the procedure for bedding brakes. It's not hard to do. I used to have all sorts of issues with."warpage" until I started doing this..also not stand on the brakes after hard braking (I.e. Let the car creep a little to prevent pad imprints on the rotor).

 

During the holidays I bought and returned an assortment brake pads to photograph edge codes for a write up about how front pad performance and how to spot different grades.

More to come about material types and brands in a thread about brake pads. There a lot of good brake pads out there. Just some early observations from popular pads that I have been collecting.

I consider OEM as the "baseline performance" mark with a DOT friction rating at FF.

Just a quick note about ratings, GG rated pads were introduced by the Europeans for cars that drive at Autobahn speeds and for severe duty applications like law enforcement vehicles. FF is the gold standard for OEM performance in the U.S.

Of course, they all have their "secret sauce" that makes their pad better than all other brands. Sometimes I think it gets down to deciding on a particular hairstyle over a quantifiable difference between products with similar performance ratings.

This post is about how to identify edge code ratings and doing your own research over starting an argument about "this pad feels better" than brand X pads.

Toyota 04465-040505 at FF


Akebono ProAct 436 at FF



Akebono ProAct 799 at FF



Wagner Thermoquiets at FG



Bosch BC799 at GG.



Raybestos EHT799H at GG



EBC GreenStuff 6000 Kevlar at GG.

 

I had never noticed a GG rated pad from Raybestos or Bosch before
But I did save that little chart with the brake grades but then it's easy to just remember, minimum of FF and can go a letter up in each digit as the pad improves lol easy peasy

 

That's it Bro!

 

I have not seen anyone mention this, but I may have missed it because I am old and have a bad cold. LOL.

Make sure the back brake drums are adjust correctly as they need to assist in normal braking duties. If your front brakes are doing all the work this could lead to your issues too. Did for me, my front rotors were warped. 2003 extended cab, 5 speed, very light brake user. My back drums were not being adjust automatically as they should through the braking brake mechanism and after I manually tightened them up with the star wheel adjuster to where I only have about 5 - 6 clicks on the brake handle, I did feel a big difference in brake pedal feel and stopping power. Those rear drums actually do help in the overall braking of our trucks.

 

Sage advice.

 

Wheel studs (at least the Dorman replacement ones) are SAE grade 5, 120 ksi tensile strength. By calculation, a 12mm (0.47") dia. dry, zinc plated stud would take about 165 ft-lb to break. With the 24" long torque wrench, it takes only about 80 lb on the end of the handle to break the stud.

 

All I can say is, after upgrading and replacing the rotors and pads I bled the brakes and broke in the new pads. I think proper break-in is necessary.

 

Well, I'd assume that if you're bothering to use a torque wrench, you'd have the correct setting, so there's really no reason you should be getting anywhere near breaking a lug with a torque wrench.

I've never used a torque wrench on my lug nuts, and never "warped" my rotors, and never broken a lug.

 

You assume the torque wrench functions correctly. That assumption turned out to be wrong with the Capri unit I bought: the head didn't click if you eased up on the desired torque slowly.

 

Yeah, that should be the assumption.

I guess this serves as a PSA not to buy cheap chinese crap for critical hardware.

 

The Capri was made in Taiwan and priced in the same range as Craftsman torque wrenches, so one rung above bottom of the barrel.

I replaced it with an $80 Powerbuilt "digital" torque wrench that's worked well so far.