Ken the electrical guy Q n A

My suggestion would be to grab your constant 12v+ from somewhere near the switch. depending on your year make and model this may change. Since you're using the switch to turn on the relay we aren't too concerned with tapping onto another constant circuit and using this to give our switch input power. Its going to be a very very small load on whichever circuit we choose. If you want to be extra safe and not tap into your factory wiring just install a add a fuse in the fuse block or at the battery and run a fresh 12v+ constant to ur switch and then ur done. If your'e going to only power that relay off that wire put a 1 Amp fuse in the fuse holder.

 

I think I might add a fuse to DR LOCK 20A for a constant hot - would that work?

 

thats your door lock fuse. You probably can use that. Do you have any unused slots on ur fuse block?

 

I do - I was just thinking to reduce having to bring another wire through the fire wall

 

did you check the fuse block under the dash for any unused fuse slots ?

 

I did - The only fuses that are left open are the ones with a / through them... Here is what I'm looking at...

 

do you have a volt meter ?

 

Yes I do

 

With the truck off test those empty positions for voltage

If no voltage is observed turn the key on without starting and test again

lemme know what you find.

 

Wow, I love that setup in the bed, very clean....I'm not sure I can make anything that clean, but now I have a goal!

Thanks so much for the feedback.

 

Thank you very much . You can do it bud. Hope I helped with your project

 

I have a 2016 with the factory inverter. It does not supply power. I have checked fuses. At the inverter itself, what voltages should I be seeing on the various plugs to help me determine where the problem lies with my setup? Lights on the button turn on appropriately when running or in ACC mode (400 / 100).

 

Send me a picture.

 

@Kens04Taco I’m looking for a switched and non switched 12volt source for a 2010 taco. I’m adding an LED that will flash when I take the key out. What would you suggest for a non switched 12volt source near the dash fuse box

 

If you’re looking for a constant 12v source I’d probably recommend adding an inline fuse that you hook up at the battery. Can you describe your circuit and I might be able to suggest Something different? Are you wiring a relay with the led in the normally closed 87a position? Then the ignition “triggers” the relay and turns the led off? If so you can basically use anything. The led and relay will draw so little that we can add them to anything really. Lemme know

 

You are correct. It will be setup on a relay and when the ignition is off, the led will flash. Not sure about describing the circuit but it is in a 2010 Tacoma DC

 

gotcha. You can basically use anything. The LED is going to
Draw very little current so I wouldn’t
over think it. Maybe just use a add a fuse in the fuse block under the dash to feed ur 30 on the relay.

 

@Kens04Taco Thank you. I appreciate it

@Kens04Taco I know there are several threads on fogs on with highs and lows which is what I want but I also want them to work when the park lights are on. Not the anytime fog mod. To you have a true method of making this happen without bending relay prongs or risking issues? What’s you preferred method to make this happen so that I have control of the fogs when my park lights are on?

 

Assuming I'm dealing with a factory truck without any aux fuse panels/relay boxes this is what I would do.

I would mount the relay(s) in the engine compartment where it could be tucked away neatly and not exposed. After mounting my relay, I would install an appropriately sized fuse holder, remove the fuse and run the output wire of the fuse to my relay without hooking it up. Cut to length leaving 3-6 inches more than I think I need for routing. I would then run a single appropriately sized wire (probably 12 AWG) out to my closest fog light. At this termination point I would crimp in my "jumper wire" that will feed power to my other fog. If you are looking to achieve a high low fog then you'll need two relays. With two relays come two independent fuses and two outputs wires. The process from fuse to relay to fog would be the same just done twice. I would say your best to make a ground that connects directly to the battery then run it down to the relay. Cut this wire 12 AWG minimum wire and crimp this wire with the relay ground wire. [Point of clarification. Make the splice/connection of the battery ground wire and relay ground wire on the same side. This will leave the other end open for what comes next]. Then using a splice or connector of your choosing continue the battery ground wire/circuit down to the fog and as before create a jumper wire. Most of the time you can get ground from the frame close to the fogs but issues can arise. You may be saving yourself an annoying issue by just going back to the battery with you grounds.


So now...
We have mounted our relay(s) in a nice,dry, and discrete location.
We have established a solid ground system for our relays/fog lights.
We have installed a fuse(s) to insure a safe and proper 12v supply system for our relay(s) and therefore fogs.

So what's left is a 12v+ trigger signal to the relays to tell them to power on. It's important to note that a relays coil (the thing that makes it "turn on" basically) draws very little current. So little that most people, including myself, feel comfortable adding them only any preexisting fused circuit without concern of overloading that circuit. Basically don't trip potato chip. There are some rare exceptions but nothing we need to discuss for the purposes of this discussion.

-If you want the fogs to turn on with the DRLS then just install a wire tap on the positive side of the DRL, near the bulb is the most common. Now considering you brought up a high/low fog bulb you'll have to decide which you'll want to come on with DRL and maybe a secondary like triggering off the high beam positive wire to trigger the high beam of your fogs?



After doing this for awhile now and being so comfortable with custom wiring I basically exclusively create new circuits for anything I add to a customer vehicle. I really prefer to stay away from the factory wiring for a few reasons (excluding triggering relays) but I don't want to keep you hear too much longer listening to me rant lol.

Anyways if you have any questions let me know I'm happy to help anyway I can.

-Ken

 

I just wanted to take a moment and say thank you to everyone who has contributed to the thread and followed along. I really hope that this is making an positive impact for y'all. Best of wishes and I hope everyone is in good health.

-Ken