Ken the electrical guy Q n A

do you have a wiring schematic showing the gauge cluster? My first suspect would be grounds.

 

No, no wiring diagrams and not sure where to find them. I have seen a few really basic diagrams…

 

do you have a multimeter or test light ?

 

I have everything coming that I need, but one more question remains. The fuse tap has a battery power/ignition blade and a Device/Accesory blade. I am thinking that the side of the fuse socket with the contacts is the Ignition/power side? I circled a socket in yellow in the photo and can see contacts on one side. I was planning on using the circuit for the radio and adding a 2 amp fuse for the relay.
Thanks for the help. It is much appreciated.

 

Here’s a mystery, at least to me. I was looking at the fuse panel on my 15 2.7 Access cab and it apparently has two 20 amp fuses for rear power windows that don’t exist. I checked the manual and the label on the cover and they are clearly for rear power windows.

 

Yes I do have both a test light and a Multimeter…

 

if it was my car i would pull the dash apart and have the gauge cluster, ac controller, and anything that’s acting strange. I would use my
Test light to on the back of the connector going into the gauge cluster and determine which the ground leads were (if I couldn’t find a diagram). I would then compare the resistance of the ground wires to the Battery with a long wire I hooked up
Directly to the ground side of
The battery and had it ran into
The car.
This would be my ground reference and it’s vital that you know it’s a good
Ground with a good connection to
The battery.

Testing the ground wires continuity back to the battery may show that you have a faulty ground wire or connection and which wire
It is. If thats the case, trace, replace or repair.

If not check back in well move forward.

 

Almost every sub model of the same vehicle will have the same electrical system installed. Depending on the additional features you may or may not have there will be residual connectors unplugged and circuits for components you may or may not have. Its very common to have a situation like you have. Don't over think it just know that in the end it was cheaper for Toyota to leave it then to remove it for trucks that didn't have the rear windows.

 

So it looks like one of those would be a candidate for a 2amp fuse tap for the relay (If the load side has voltage). The window switches power off soon after the ignition is switched off.

 

The two empty fuse positions in the fuse block do not have any outputs preinstalled. They are just extra slots. The metal contacts you see when you look inside of there are apart of the the same bus. As bus is a way to distribute power from the same source to multiple circuits in a clean and efficient way. All of the fuses in each row are apart of the same bus.

Depending on the vehicle and configuration

each row can be...

- Constant 12v power from the battery or other source.
- Ignition 12v power (powered while in key is in the on position as well as during starting).
- Accessory 12v power (Powered when the key in on but not during starting).

A simple voltage test during each situation can easily tell you what each bussed fuse row is powered by.

So If we wanted a key on source for something, all we do is test the fuses until we found a row that was not powered until we turn the key on. Then pick an appropriate position for installing the add a fuse. Depending on your vehicle and what your trying to power it will change which fuse to pick . Most circuits can handle low draw additions like relay triggers or LEDS without issues. I personally will not use an add a circuit for anything over 5 amps. I'll make a new circuit and relay it if need be to trigger on accessory power.

 

Yeah id say so. We can assume that with a 20 amp fuse installed the wires leading up to the fuse are probably 14-gauge wire which is more than likely suitable for what your going to power with your add a fuse circuit. You'll just want to make sure you install a new fuse that will match what your powering.

It's common for car manufactures to add multiple circuits on the same fuse but the power window circuit I'd assume is probably all by itself. Id have to get the wiring schematics out to know for sure.

 

First off Ken, I would like to thank you for all the help you’re giving everyone on here!

I’m in a similar boat as @Nessmuk with my first GEN. I will be running a relay to my new led bumper lights And I’m seeking a suitable place for a Fuse tap. A test light showed me a lot what was happening Between accessory, ignition and constant power.

The picture below shows options I do not have on my truck so I am thinking of removing the 7.5 amp fuse and popping in a fuse tap With a 3 amp fuse just for the relay trigger switch.

I have circled the same location in the second picture and I am already using the accessory blank highlighted in green for something else.

I am thinking that since I do not have antilock brakes, cruise control Or an automatic transmission I will not piggy back the 7.5 amp fuse because it’s already doing nothing? I’m just not sure?

 

Thanks ken…

I was checking a Camry site, and not a huge help, then I happened to find a Toyota Nation website, and several Camry owners had the exact same symptoms. Apparently it’s a Demi- common issue due to faulty ABS module.

found a few places that refurbish your module for under $200 ($1600 new from Toyota). I am gonna give that a shot before I start ripping the dash apart.

I agree with “ ground” issues, but it was only a limited portion of the cluster.

My daughter is bugging me because it’s “her” car. I offered to let her drive our 05 Prius which she drove for 2 years…. “No thanks”…. The Prius is ugly enough that she doesn’t even want it temporarily…

 

You are very welcome . I'm happy that I have the opportunity to help others

Try to stay away from ECU, Fuel, IGN fuses. You're asking for problems you don't want lol. Why not go for the accessory fuse?

 

huh...send me the link I'd like to read it over.

Yeah improper grounds can cause issues that seem erratic and inconsistent. I know what you're saying though if it was the main ground the entire cluster would be showing symptoms.

Haha well I think its nice that you're going out of your way to try and fix her car. Let me know how its going with the ABS module and if that doesn't work well figure it out

 

I will take your advice and stay away from that one! Thank you

 

https://www.toyotanation.com/thread...-lights-issue-ac-stops-wtf-mode.426366/page-2

here is one of the links…

I checked Toyota and Rock Auto to see what she new module would cost….

$1600+ from Toyota, $600+ Rebuilt from RockAuto

Ended up finding a few places on Google and eBay that refurbish your modules. Chose one the was semi- local. I ended up buying a pre-refurbished module, and I’ll return mine in a few weeks once I know it took care of the problem. These sites also mentioned the same symptoms…

received it yesterday and installed last night. 4 small screws and wiring harness, it’s all “ dry” so no brake fluid…. Plug and play…

took about 10 minutes to swap out. Ran it 3 times so far, running for 1 hour+. Drove it to work this morning (21+ miles) and back this afternoon.

So far, so good. No more issues at this time, looks like it solved the problem, only time will tell…

thanks

 

I can’t believe I just found this thread! I need electrical help constantly. OP you are doing a wonderful service to the world! Thank you!

 

Excellent! I'm happy to hear it was a simple fix! Doesn't always work out that way lol

 

Welcome! I'm glad you found us.