Keyless Entry

I decided I didn't want to drag my keys to places I will probably lose them or don't have a spot to safely secure them (i.e: Beach, Gym, local park, etc.). So I created my own keyless entry system like Ford puts on their vehicles. Below is a parts list, and tools needed, and the steps I took to create a keyless entry for my Tacoma.

Forewarning this thread is very wordy and long so just bear with me.

The keyless system works by essentially "pressing" the lock and unlock buttons of the key FOB like you would normally do expect it is mounted in the truck and can not be lost at "insert local outdoor attraction here".

The cost is about $120 keyless entry system parts and you probably have some of the parts already. You will need access to Techstream to program an additional key fob (at least for 3rd gen Tacomas). Why I can't program a key fob like the 2nd gen Tacoma's is beyond me. Anyway, that means you need an OBDII cable and techstream (more on that to follow).

Some of you are probably going to say that I could just get a hide a key and achieve the same result but to you I say, that is a hassle to crawl under the car to retrieve it plus anyone around me that's watching now knows I have a spare key hidden under my truck, whereas this lets me punch in a pin and unlock or lock my truck without looking suspicious or out of place.

disclaimer: I drive a manual Tacoma so I don't know how the key fobs for an automatic with touch start would affect this system. My guess is that the proximity sensors for the doors are separate from the key fob but I don't know.

Parts list:
1) BOYO Keyfree Touch

$89 BOYO Keyfree Touch - Keyless Vehicle Digital Touch Keypad for Car, Truck or Van

https://www.amazon.com/BOYO-Keyfree-Touch-Digital-Vehicle/dp/B01HV5FZAG
2) An additional Keyfob
I found mine on Amazon (make sure the "FAA ID" found on the key fob's case inside the keys outer case matches, and if you want to cut the key make sure the chip matches your current code stamped in the blade of the key)
Mine is HYQ12BEL and this key works for me

$27 cciyu 1X Keyless Entry Kit 3 Buttons Uncut Remote Fob Transmitter Replacement Chip Replacement Key Fob for 13 14 15 16 17 for Toyota Prius V Prius C RAV4 HYQ12BDM

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D5RCNXM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
**Note: For those with a different FAA ID try this website or just google it.
https://www.keys4less.net
3) 18 AWG wire (from your local auto parts store)
4) A mini low profile Add-a-fuse tap (I don't know if the earlier gen Tacoma's use a different fuse type)
5) 2 amp mini fuse (low profile is preferred but a mini will fit just fine)
**Note: Napa usually sells individual fuses you just have to ask at the counter
6) A ring terminal that fits your wire gauge
7) An assortment of heat shrink tubing
8) A list of parts from Digikey
* 1, 3V voltage regulator, part #:BA30BC0T-ND‎
* 1, .33uf capacitor, part #: ‎445-173273-1-ND‎
* 1, 22uf capacitor, part #: ‎445-173115-1-ND‎
* 2, SPST reed relays rated for a 12v switching voltage, part #: ‎1835-1118-ND‎
* 1, perforated breadboard, part #: ‎SBB206-ND‎
9) heavy duty double sided tape ( I used molding tape for door trim that I got at the local auto parts store, but any thick double sided tape will work)


Tools List:
1) wire strippers
2) soldering iron with a fine pencil tip
3) wire dikes or flush cut pliers
4) door panel removal tools (the harbor freight ones work surprisingly well) 5) razor blade or x-acto blade
7) general pliers, screwdrivers

Building steps:
First I made sure the new key fob could be programmed to lock and unlock my truck. I used techstream version 13.00.022. Found here http://blog.obdii365.com/2018/03/26/install-mini-vci-toyota-techstream-v13-00-022/ they have a great set of instructions and it worked on windows 10 for me as well. To program an additional key fob, follow this video (it's geeky but does a good job of explaining) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8SivdN83i4E. I used a tractix OBDII cable so I can't comment on which cable works to program a key fob.

Next, I built the circuit to connect the boyo wireless entry and the key fob. You could just wire the boyo keyless entry system into the truck and avoid the key fob all together, but I did not want to splice into my trucks wiring and have to find which wires run the door lock switches.

I started with the components that attach to the breadboard. Below is a general diagram that shows the wiring, then a diagram on a piece of graph paper (this shows how the components are soldered on the breadboard, each square represents a hole in the breadboard) make sure to tin your connections beforehand to make sure you don't overheat the components trying to get solder to flow.

**On a side note, I never wanted to have to change the coin cell battery in the key fob so the voltage regulator supplies the key fob with 3V just like the little coin cell batteries would but now I don't have to replace batteries every 3 years in the remote. The amp draw of the whole system is less than 50 mA when in a resting state and 100mA when being used so the chances in drains your battery are 0 unless left for years on end, and then the other systems in the truck are going to draw more than this anyway.

** I used the extra wire from the Boyo Keyless entry system to make the connections on the breadboard and between the keyfob and breadboard.


This is what the breadboard should look like after you are done.

For the Key Fob, you will need to double check where to solder the wires in order to bypass the switch with the relays on the breadboard. I found that the opposite corners of the switch are where I needed to attach the wires for the relays to bypass the switch. In other words, the relays connect the circuit acting like the button is being pushed. below are some photos of the key fob. this is where a clean fine pencil tip soldering iron is very handy.


To the power connections, I just soldered the wires to the prongs that connect to the coin cell battery, pre-tinning the prongs helps a lot. and I added some heat shrink to secure the connection.


I replaced the plastic battery holder as seen in the picture above so that when the circuit board is placed in its case the board fits snugly. Just make sure to cut a relief slot in the top and bottom of the key fob case for the wires, as seen below. An x-acto knife works well. Make sure your wires are flat to the fobs circuit board and the case should snap together just fine.



Once you have both the board and key fob done, connect them together. I used some heat shrink to protect the wire to the key fob and used a zip tie in the corner of the beadboard to relieve the stress on the connections.


At this point, you are going to have to tear into your Tacoma.

Boyo Keyless entry system install:

I have an access cab so I put the whole system in the back access door window but if you have a regular or double cab I may consider the back window or windshield for the keypad.

This system works like your touch screen on your phone where there is no physical button but the electrostatic charge that your body has is picked up by the keypad through the glass of the window it's installed in. I chose this system for that reason because I don't have to drill any holes in my truck and there is no separate keypad to stick to the outside of my truck.

The installation of the keypad is very straight forward just clean the glass with rubbing alcohol first before sticking the keypad to the glass. Otherwise, I would say just read the instructions, just note that it seems google translate converted them from Korean to English so some things are not worded very well.

Here are some photos of the boyo keypad placement.




**From this point on unless you have an access cab, your installation may vary from mine.

I would pull off any plastic trim in the area you are placing the boyo keyless entry to make the installation easier. To remove the access door panel refer to this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aitzr_3p9MM

I also removed the plastic sill plates the kick panel on the driver's side and partially removed the rear pillar trim panel near the back seats seat belt.

After sticking the boyo keypad to the window I ran a single 18awg wire to power the whole system from the fuse panel under the dash. I used the add a fuse to do this and connected it to the 20 amp fuse called S/ROOF, just make sure that the fuse receives power even with the truck off and the key removed from the ignition.

**Side note: Just like everyone else I broke the cover to this fuse panel, apparently if you use a small flat blade screwdriver to release the catch the cover comes right off. Either way, the cover won't fit over the add a fuse so its only use is to depict what fuse goes to what.

I started the power wire from inside the door because I had to fish it through the wire boot at the door. I also did a lineman's splice at the add a fuse rather than using the supplied but connector because I felt it would be more secure. Below are some photos. Two pieces of advice. 1) use some weedwacker string to fish the power wire through the doors wire boot and the pillar at the cab. 2) since the seat belt is in the same pillar of the cab that the wire has to go through, try to avoid running the wire where it could be rubbed by the seat belt over time.


The power wire needs to be routed through the clip in the door, a small flat blade screwdriver helps to remove the clip from the body.

This is a picture looking behind the trim panel at the rear of the cab, the wire was easiest to run from the doors wire boot to the back of the cab and then up and around the seat belt.

After routing the power wire I soldered it to the breadboard and ran a gound to the speakers ground in the door using a ring terminal. I wrapped the power wire and ground around the existing wiring harness.

The final wiring was from the boyo keyless entry pad to the breadboard. There is a connector for the keypad that just pushes in so I left myself a few extra inches of wire and soldered the power, ground, Lock/ unlock wires onto the breadboard in the corresponding positions as denoted above. again using a zip tie to avoid stress on the solder connections.

I mounted the breadboard to a piece of wood to insulate it from the door otherwise the board would short out. I mounted everything with the 3M molding double-sided tape.

 

Awesome

FYI: