Keystone State Thread

Jerry what type of prep work are you doing to the frame and what are you using to coat?

 

Wire brush on grinder (electric) and another one on Air angle grinder,CRC marine corrosion inhibitor and then spray on bed liner.

 

Holy smokes. That frame is ready for the zombie apocalypse.

 

it definently can out nice.using a lift and not being in a hurry helps alot.

 

And the bed liner sticks well to that? Good to know, I plan on doing some rust proofing when I can take my bed off at some point.

 

we shall see,i let the cor.inh.dry overnight,it was pretty firm by sunday morning. (notice i didn't say hard) lol

 

I WAS REFERRING TO the corrosion inhibitor harding up,not yelling had caps lock on and too lazy to go back so i wrote this explenation. I also seen CRC makes a spray on rust converter.Of course my buddy showed me on saturday night,after i already sprayed the corrotion inhibitor.He had sprayed it on a rust header,it hardened black and like a ceramic finish.

 

Welcome to the forums. I haven't proven it but I think mine was a fleet truck too, perhaps one that was leased because it had 26K miles when I bought it. It's a base but it had stuff base does not normally come with them, so I figure it was either fleet order or special order, and who but fleet buyers special would special order a base.

 

Whats up guys,

I'm down in Chester, PA, I am a student at Widener. I am going to do some rust treatment on my truck coming up. Have you all had any experience with POR15? From other forums it seems everyone loves the stuff. My truck being in PA and MD winters has some surface rust on the rear end of the frame and the top of the frame rail. But I am still trying to narrow down what products I want to use.

 

Welcome!

lol

Good stuff but wear gloves - it does not come off your skin.

 

Got you man. The stuff seems legit. I am skeptical of other products like rustoleum reformer. Do you have any other suggestions for products I should use?

 

POR15 works best on the worst of the worst areas.... areas that are far beyond surface rust, pitted areas, pourous metals, etc. When these areas are cleaned of debris/dirt - the POR15 seeps in.

On bare metals and non rusted areas - you've really & truly gotta get the most perfect of prep or the stuff won't adhere for too long.

We used POR15 on our old Jeep Dana 44 axles. It stuck perfectly on the cast diff areas, brake shields and rusted stuff. The diff tubes weren't rusted at all - and in some areas started to peel up. We bought all the recommended cleaners & finishes and followed the instructions. But after a year or so, some areas on the axle tubes started to peel up.

The first coat uses A LOT - as the paint seeps in. The 2nd & 3rd coats go a lot farther.

 

I had that experience too . Wiped down my new sliders with lacquer thinner to be sure they were spot clean. Por 15 , 2 coats , finished off with rustoleum to prevent UV from attacking the por15.
After this winter I noticed 2-3 spots where the por just peeled off in one solid sheet ! Maybe an area 2x3" .... Not bad , but I was surprised .. Metal underneath was like new though. I scuffed it and hit it again.
$50 a quart !! Comes off the metal , but Not your skin !
I don't care how Carefull you are ... You will get some on you ... One way or another .... Hey ... Ever hear of Murphys Law

 

got plenty of time for that he is 15 so he won't be driving it for awile, bonus for me extra truck to drive for a year.

 

My pap keeps saying about PFC. protection first class. Idk. I may give it a try next fall though.

 

Hell...the Herculiner DIY kit would work better on 'new' metal. At what...$70 a gallon? I'd rather get POR15 on my skin than Herculiner! LOL

 

Now you tell me !
Heck , everyone was up about Por15 , restorers rave about it !Aoto store couldn't say enough about how great it is ... YadaYada
I read about a lot of different ways to go and different products , each product is "the best" !! Who knew ?

 

Bojangles for some southern style chicken , biscuits , and dirty rice !!
March 28th , Saturday - between noon and one.
3215 N 5th Street Hwy, Reading, PA 19605
Who's hungry ?
Meet N Greet -[/QUOTE]

This Saturday

 

Yeah that makes sense. However the rust on my truck doesn't haha. More surface rust on the drivers side for whatever reason. The passengers is a lot cleaner. But I did notice that I had some inner rust near the leaf spring mount and had kind of freaked out... I know thats a bad spot to have rust. But I took a screw driver and tried to see if it would give at all. Luckily it is just surface scale.. My truck is structurally sound but these forums with all the horror stories make you worry more haha.

Basically, after performing the Toyota TSB, by hitting the frame with a hammer all over I was not able to find any soft spots on the frame. Which is good. But I do however have frame rust and scale at several portions of the frame. In some places more serious then others. See pictures...


Drivers side top of frame rail


Drivers Side bottom of frame rail


The other side of the frame looks the same. The inside of this portion of the frame is rust free.

Rear Drivers side- Leaf Springs






Rear Drivers Side



Passenger side rear






This spot was very concerning for me, but this is where I tested the frame with a screwdriver and a hammer. No structural defects or weakness. Inner rust is scale.

Passenger Side middle of frame



Like I said before I have no doubt in my mind that the trucks frame is safe and structurally sound. But that does not change the fact I have frame rust, that needs to be addressed. Unfortunately the original owner was a dummy and never took the truck in to be sprayed. So I cant get a new frame ever. But I don't think it would matter regardless because the warranty for me would have been up in three years and my truck is no where as bad as others I have seen.

I guess my question is does this rust warrant the use of POR-15?

Thanks and sorry for the LONG post.