Keystone State Thread

The clicking is after the lift install right? Your boots have grease? How are the boot angles? Cv's can click when deprived of grease or are binding from steep angles. Mine did after my lift, most noticeable on turns. Also potentially check your brake dust covers,
Maybe you accidentally bent one when you had the wheels off. Lastly not sure if you had the calipers off but check those bolts, slide pins and caliper spacer bracket if you are thinking its related to braking.

 

My brakes used to click but only once per time... If I drive forward and hit the brakes it clicks... Get off the brakes and it doesn't click the next time same with in reverse...

Its a light clicking sound... But its the piston it stopped after I replaced my passanger side caliper and got new brake pads

 

I see a truck with 35s and a truck looking to have 35s..

 

Thanks for the suggestions. I want to think know it's brake related but it's not limited to when I hit the brake pedal. It also dosent happen above 25mph, even if I hit the brakes hard. It's mainly a low speed thing.

 

Haha can't come soon enough dude. Hoping to find a good sale when I come back from vacation on Fourth of July weekend. The 32's look so small with no flare.

 

What tires are you looking at Mike? Don't wanna go woth some treadwrights?

 

Thanks again dude! I didn't realize you were 2 minutes from Steam Pub! That place is my wife and I's jam. Such good food. We should do a PADB meet up there, you are literally 20 minutes from both my work and home, just different directions.

El Gringo Jesus turned me onto these:




Can get the 315/75r16 for about $230-250 a tire. Going to get 5. Probably never buying treadwrights again. Don't get me wrong they put up with a fuck ton of offroad abuse and airing down, etc., but when I got the bubble in my tire they didn't do shit for me. They said that the issue is from the casing of the retreaded tire, not the tread itself so they gave me a tiny discount on a new tire and that's it. No thanks on that kind of service. That being said, I got a really durable m/t for like $130 a tire when I bought them and their grip was awesome in most conditions.

 

230-250 a tire?? 35/12.50/r20 Maxxs are 325 per. Almost cheaper to buy 17" rims.








Maybe I ain't cool enough to be in the Dirty5 club.

 

Ill be going same route but with the same exact set up @Chux has... Im getting the SCS stealth 6's in a limited run of silver. Same color as the truck and then 255/80r17. Some dude in VA has a set of 5.

Ill also still have the set of wheels and tires I have now so Ill be set with tires and wheels.

One day Ill have 35's... After gears lockers and blah blah in a far far away fantasy land 2-3 years from now

 

all you can eat crab legs night in winter..

 

Question-01: do they have good cold beer? (not the crappy fairy water)
Question-02: food that doesn't have you wishing yah hadn't 24hrs later?

 

Don't puke on those nice wheels

 

Curious question whats it feel like driving without the swaybar.

 

Not bad at all with stiffer shocks.
Not bad at all with stock shocks until you're going fast.

Just take it off and try it out. If you don't like it, put it back on.

 

Who would want a 20" rim?! and 17" rim is too big too for me. I want as little rim and as mcuh tire as possible.

 

I was curious cuz ill be throwing my lift on soon hopefully. Ill try it with the sway bar off first but like blackout sed i have heavy foot also.

 

Take off the sway bar it's no big deal. I was hesitatant but took it off and never looked back. My sway is only bad with gear weight and weight on roof racks.. But still driveable no worries. I actually have more sway from shackle flip.

 

It's not bout a heavy foot, just don't jerk the wheel trying to make a last minute turn.