Kicker hideaway- final upgrade to the $250(+) 3rd gen premium upgrade (+Kicker Key 180.4 amp)

Ok, I finally had time to get back to working on the amp combo.
I have pulled the HU out and this seems to match up to what I have.
Would this color code be correct for 2019?

 

Yep

 

So would you say I could tap in this with T-taps? I would use the front right speaker and the gray for the switched ignition power to the “blue” remote wire to the amp.

Sorry to be PITA.

 

Yeah that will work. Just make sure the hideaway switch is set to 12v

 

Holy cow it works. It has everything to do with the remote wire. I ended up connecting everything behind the HU. Now I just have to put it all back together.


Thank you so much for answering my questions.

 

Woop woop!! Congrats Craig! Did you just t-tap then?

 

Thanks. Yes, that’s what I used. I could not get the harness delivered in time before I went back to work. Honestly, it was crazy to try the other way first but others seemed to get it to work. I may try to order the harness and swap it over in a couple of weeks when I get home.
I had to take a break to eat supper. Now I just have to finish putting in the back panels and secure the amp. But it works good. Yahooooo!

 

This needs to be added in original post for 2018+ years trucks

 

@destin_meeks or anybody else that has ran 4 gauge wire through firewall how and where did you do it? I watched a YouTube video from oem audio that he ran 8 or 10 gauge through the passenger side that had two nipple looking things and cut one off. I did that to run my 10 gauge to my small Alpine amp behind the deck but I also have a bigger Rockford amp to run sub or subs that is running 4 gauge. I tried to push it through the other nipple unsuccessfully and am about to give it up for awhile. Any advice would really make my day. Thanks

 

I haven’t run amp power yet but did several switch wires through the firewall. There is more then enough room to add a 4 gauge if needed. I know people don’t like to drill into their vehicles but it really is a great location. If I ever need to plug it, the right sized panel clip will work just fine.

 

If you don’t have the big booster there, there is a factory grommet in the red circle, or you can easily drill a hole in the kidney-shaped area in the green circle. Both are completely safe spots. You will need to cut through the insulation material on the inside of the cab. I suggest poking through it from the engine side with a pick tool or long nail or something so you can see where to cut the material (cuts decent with a razorblade)

 

Green spot is where I drilled in the post right above. Like @destin_meeks says, just cut a slit into the insulation with a razor blade. I used a fish tape I have to pull the wires. Woke great!

 

Can anyone point me in the right direction as to the closest ground I can use for the hideaway from under the driver’s seat? I read OP extended to chassis ground, but I’ve no idea where that is. I also did a search of the thread and google, but to no avail really... atleast visually. Seems like either way I’ll need to extend ground wire, just like to get an idea of how much extra length I’ll need.

 

Have you got the hideaway under the driver's seat yet? Did you have to move the vents?

 

I just slid it under there, I wasnt sure it would fit with the vents and my floor mats (double cab) but it seems like no problems. Pretty much like OP’s pics.

 

Has anyone upgraded from the 8” hideaway to the 10” one? I’m wondering if it’s even worth it?

 

There is supposed to be a ground under the carpet under the driver seat. I can't guarantee that but from other videos that I have seen that's where it's at

 

There's a 10mm factory ground bolt just behind the driver's seat. Go to 10:00 in the below video to see where it is. 2nd/3rd gens are the same.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c37zgaUQsVo

 

Ace’s! Thank you both!

 

@destin_meeks
Any confirmation on my T-harness would be greatly appreciated. I’m confident enough that I have already soldered and wire loomed everything, but wanted a thumbs up before doing my install next week.

If I want speaker level inputs, front only, then below is how I would make (made) the harness...

Yellow- yellow
Red-red
Black-black
Orange/white-orange/white
Blue-blue

Blue/white- extended (did not tie to any other wires from female harness) and ran as a stand alone remote wire. Not needed for high level but makes sense to run it for future proof.

Gray (+)/ gray/black (-) both tapped as right front input

white (+)/ white/black (-) both tapped as left front input

Again, my intent is a line out harness for high level inputs to an amp/DSP.