Kicker hideaway- final upgrade to the $250(+) 3rd gen premium upgrade (+Kicker Key 180.4 amp)

Looks like that setup will sound nice and smooth

 

So, i have a question. Im doing this exact upgrade and for the harness for the sub can i use use the one from TT? I want the simplest install possible and while doing the soldering is easy, isnt there a harness that needs to go from the head unit to the subs?

 

Started adding my hideaway today. I am using the “tap into the front speaker method”. Question- the kicker harness has speaker-level inputs for left and right sides, but in my research it seems that most are just tapping into the drivers side front. Is that going to perform ok, or do you really need inputs from both left and right front speakers?

*EDIT*
Never mind, I figured it out. Only 1 channel is really required, since the amp is mono. On another note, my Hideaway would not perform well using the voltage sense feature to turn on when Speaker level voltage was detected. Kept flipping on an off. Had to use the blue remote wire and tap into a switched source. Just in case anyone runs into this issue.

 

@destin_meeks

I cannot find room anywhere in the taco for my new sub!

Any ideas?

 

Looks like you’ve got a good spot right there for it!

 

Hope all of you are well! I've been adapting to virtual teaching the last few weeks but I'm ready to tackle the Hideaway install. I'm good on how to do the power and negative cable runs now but am curious how to go about doing the speaker wires and remote wires. I already have the t harness for my kicker key to splice into. Any suggestions? T-taps, line splice, cut existing speaker wires and blue/white wire on harness and then add new wires from hideaway harness and solder? Thanks!

 

Got it installed today! Negative ground went to grounding point underneath the drivers seat carpet. Ran speaker wires and remote wire under carpet and pulled up behind center of dash. I set the kicker key to 60hz and I may keep playing with it. I definitely don’t have the overall boom I had from the door speakers anymore but I do notice some lower sounds I didn’t hear before. At this point it’s a trade off to me. I’ve got a few weeks for a return period if I want to look at some other options.

 

To my ears, a high pass crossover keeps the sound a lot cleaner than otherwise where midrange/full range speakers are concerned.

 

I’ll have to check that out. Putting the key at 80 took most of the bass out of the door speakers and left them to the Hideaway. Not getting the overall bass like I was but it’s definitely cleaner on the low end (bass guitar riffs, etc.). I’m wondering if a dedicated mono amp and a 10 inch sub would be more of what I’m looking for.

 

Just depends what the ears want. I replaced the door speakers and dropped in a Key 180.4, been happy with every change, but I know there’s a sub going in. Probably looking at a Key 500.1 and an Image Dynamics ID10 in a sealed box.

Most go with a powered subwoofer for ease of install.

 

I guess at this point I’d just get an amp to go under the seat. Use the remote and speaker wires already installed today and change the ground and power to 8 gauge, get some more speaker wire For the new sub and roll.

 

Well if you’re adding a sub, you don’t want “boom” from your doors. That’s not what they’re made for.
If you want that sound back, turn off the crossover. All the “boom” is below 60Hz so your speakers just aren’t being sent those frequencies.

 

@destin_meeks and @Philrab Thanks for the feedback! Makes sense. I guess I’ve just gotten used to it coming from the 4 door speakers and not concentrated to the subwoofer. I know they’re not designed for that.

Correct me if I’m wrong but would that mean an amp like the Kicker 400 ($149) and a subwoofer like this one might be better? I’m trying to educate myself a little bit and have concluded a 2 ohm subwoofer will utilize the amps smaller power better. Does that seem right?

These Pioneer shallow ones might fit the cubby.

 

You need the one that doesn’t have the little legs on the front of it. Those make it a bit too big to fit in the cubby. But they make the loaded enclosures without those legs too. The Kicker compRT 10” loaded enclosure fits too, and has a passive radiator to make it hit a little deeper than most shallow 10’s in a small box.

for amps, just make sure the amp you pick is rated for the power the sub needs at the correct ohm load. For example, that Kicker amp is rated 400w at 1 (one) ohm, but only 300w at 2ohm. So if your 2ohm sub needs 400w, make sure your amp can do that much power at 2ohms.

 

Gotcha. So would that mean on a 4ohm rated sub, that amp wouldn’t put out a lot of power to it?

I’ll check our the Kicker one.

 

That is correct. Amps will have rated powers at different ohm loads. you just want to make sure everything works best together when you buy it.
That Kicker cx400.1 is rated 400w@1ohm, 300w@2ohm, and 150w@4ohm.

 

@destin_meeks Thanks for the advice. Last question from me for the day. Is this the model number for the Kicker one? 43TCWRT104. They’ve got a few different versions. I’m also assuming based on our conversation that that Kicker 400 amp won’t cut it for what I need. Have a great Sunday!

 

That’s the model for the 4ohm. They also make it in a 2ohm (model ends in 102 instead of 104)

 

I have the 2ohm model and it thumps!
I had to dial back the power a bit because it was over powering everything else.
I am running a RF Punch amp

 

here is a better picture, just removed the passenger cubby and it fits with room to spare.