Kicker hideaway- final upgrade to the $250(+) 3rd gen premium upgrade (+Kicker Key 180.4 amp)

So I having an audio shop install a

$350 Rockford Fosgate P300-12 Single 12" 300-Watt Amplified Subwoofer in Enclosure - Black

Rockford Fosgate P300-12 as well as a Alpine power pack in my access cab and I already installed the subraru tweeters. Since I only have front door speakers I have some more to spend on them, so I was wondering what you guys recommend for speakers that the the power pack can power sufficiently?

Also is it okay for me to have the powerpack installed without upgrading the speakers yet? I figure since they already have the dash out that it easier to just have the sub and powerpack installed at the same time. Not comfortable with running the wires through the HU and car, but speakers I can do myself. Thanks!

 

For speakers, I am running the kicker KS series (red box) and they sound amazing with some good power. Alpine has some really good options as well.

You absolutely can install the power pack before the speakers, but just keep in mind that if you try to play your music louder than you used to, those factory speakers are toast. Just keep the volume at your normal level until you get your speakers swapped and you’ll be all good!

 

I just finished my install. I have only one problem. When I turn the volume up above 35-40 the Hideaway cuts off. Comes back on when I turn it back down. Even with bass, gain, and other dial all the way down, still cuts off at high volume. Quick google says it’s cutting off from lack of power.... what can I do to increase the power going to this unit? If you have any other suggestions please let me know.

 

My first guess would be that you have the input level on Lo instead if Hi

If you used the included wiring, and have it connected straight to the battery, there isn't a power issue.

 

Thanks for the reply @destin_meeks I have the input on high. Tried low to just to see if it made a difference and it didn’t as far as turning off. I did use the included wiring and connected straight to the battery. I kept all the wiring original length so I have several feet coiled up under the carpet. I have it grounded to a seat mount bolt in the floor. I did use the taco tune wiring harness but that only connects to the speaker inputs.

 

Are you using the blue remote turn on wire as well? When the input level is on Hi, the blue rem occasionally causes some issues.

And for the ground, Sometimes seat bolts aren't the best spots. That may be where the problem is coming from. Did you leave extra length on that wire as well? I would recommend grounding in the drivers kick panel at the big factory grounding location (Lots of white/black-stripe wires bundles together, bolted into the side wall.) I would also sand down the paint around this bolt hole to ensure good contact. Use heavy grit sandpaper or a wire brush drill bit to make quick work of that

 

Thank you again. Yes. I am using the blue remote tire, spliced in with a speaker wire because the unit would not turn on with out it no matter what I tried. I will move the ground as you recommended. I left it full length however it is not very long so I will have to extend it.

 

Your blue wire is spliced in with a speaker wire? There's your problem.
It is made to get 12v DC but speakers are AC

The blue wire shouldn't be needed with the input level is set to Hi, but I think I've seen other members stating they still needed it. But it needs to go to an accy source and not a speaker


You can make your own ground if you want. Sand down the paint and 3 self tapping screws through the sheet metal. Definitely not my preferred way to go though, when there is a factory ground location so close. If you extend the ground, be sure to use equal gauge and equal quality wire. None of that CCA cheap thin crap. Then preferably use solder, but a good quality butt connector crimped with good crimpers (NOT pliers) will work as well. Grounding issues

 

Alright so first I’ll disconnect the blue wire. Any idea what I should wire it to if my unit still won’t come on without it?

 

If it still won't come on with the inout level set to high, the blue remote turn on can go to any accessory turn-on. If you want to run it behind the radio, you can grab the thin grey wire in the larger of the two main harnesses. Or you can grab the + on one of the cig lighters.

 

Did you use the Metra harness? Pretty sure there is a blue / white remote lead?

 

Believe he said he used the ********* kit which only uses the rear speaker harness (purple and green)

 

@destin_meeks you we’re totally correct! I moved the remote wire from splicing in with a speaker input and spliced it into the cigarette lighter. Now it runs perfect! Thank you so much for your help man!
Had to use the remote wire, unit just would not turn on without it.

 

Thank you for this thread! Installed my tweeters, 6 x 9’s and speakers in the rear doors this week. Dynamat installed with all of them. All kicker.
I have a Rockford Fosgate punch amp that I used in my last vehicle, so I was going to just find a box to pair with it. But it sounds like this 8 inch self powered Kicker sub woofer might fit the bill. I see them refurbished on Amazon for 150. I have never wired up my own audio so I’ll definitely have to read through the instructions section carefully and may ask a few questions.
Very well done!

 

I got the Hideway and started installing it today behind the passenger seats on my double cab. I got as far as routing the wires to the front by the kick panel on the drivers side but haven't connected anything yet. I have just a couple questions for you guys which I would really appreciate your help with.

If I were to tap into the speaker wires without the Metra harnesses, where would I do that? Should I just get the harnesses?

I'm a bit confused on the blue wire, do I use it, not use it?

Thanks.

 

just follow this, you would only need the rear speaker harness. I depinned the blue from the main harness and used it on my rear speaker harnesses.

 

Sorry Im not quite sure what Im looking at, since I haven't messed with the harnesses yet. Are these stock or the Metra harnesses? I'm guessing they attach to the head unit?

 

These are the Metra, you use the smaller harness. Yeah one end attaches to the head unit, one to the stock speaker harness.

 

Looks like getting the harnesses is the way to go

 

You can easily tap into the front right door speaker in the passenger kick panel. Looking for this plug, and if I recal, the wires are grey+ blue-


Just be sure to use a good military splice and a few (small, thin) zip ties. Those T-taps are known to not bite very well.

All that being said, if you dont want to splice factory wiring, and if you ever plan on doing an amp (power pack, kicker key, or other) making the harness now will make future installs run smoothly