Kicker speakers vs factory

Kicker CS series separates will fit without modification despite what Crutchfield says. The 6x9 woofers fit perfect and the tweeters just need the universal mount which is easy.

 

I just got done installing kickers tweeters and kickers door speakers.

The quality of sounds will be noticeable right away. The bass of woofers and tweeters increased, crisp and clarity is way awesome!!!

It's perfectly loud enough for me, I usually have kids at the backseats... I have no use for subwoofers but for sure this set up cost me around $225 is worth it!!!

I highly recommended, I would say less than 2hrs install for 4door speakers and dash tweeters.

 

I wish I had not gone with component 6x9's as there is just too much treble and I had to turn it down -4. I ran with just the tweeters upgraded for a month before I did the door speakers and I thought that was good enough and didn't have to touch the treble level.

 

I'd be curious to know if there is another 6X9 that would be better than these Kickers everyone is using. According to the specs on Amazon the
recommended RMS for the Kickers is 70 watts! that's A LOT of power. There's no way the entune stock head unit (or ANY head unit for that matter) puts out anything
close to 70 watts RMS. Probably closer to 10-20 watts RMS. So if people are claiming that these Kickers sound better (and I def believe everyone)
I bet a quality speaker that doesn't need that much power will sound even better. That's probably why ppl are saying you need to turn the volume
way up, because you need to milk every last watt out of the head unit in order to get the cone moving. There must be a compatible speaker, maybe
in the 20 watt RMS range, that would work even better.

[edit] : actually according to Kicker they need 90 watts RMS to efficiently work!

 

The door panels are quite simple to remove, you should be fine installing the speakers.

 

RMS doesn't mead minimum recommended power, it means average continuous max (non peak) that is safe for a speaker, as in running X ammount of power for hours on end without damaging the soeaker. You can run lower power.

https://www.techjunkie.com/rms-speakers/

 

Oh you CAN definitely run lower power, but you'll have lower SPLs. (which is exactly what some ppl have been describing) For optimal sound you should try to somewhat match the
RMS rating of the speaker to the RMS rating of the amp (or in this case the head unit) or at least get the speaker 30% of what
it's looking for. I'd like to see some feedback on 6X9's that are closer to the 40-50 watt RMS range.

this article sums it up. read all the way to the end and it gives recommended amp rms power for speakers.

http://rftech.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/24/~/determining-power-needed-for-speakers

 

SUUUUPPPER simple, just a couple of screws and use the correct trim pry bar tools. Takes literally 2 minutes to pull of a panel. Reinstalling it is as easy as lining up the clips.

I've never done it in my life until Meso's light pods. Stressed about it over nothing. You do it once and its second nature after.

 

Is the dynamat really worth the $26 x 2?

 

¯\_(ツ)_/¯



..lol sorry could not resist. Would like to know the answer also though

 

If optimal sound quality is determined in SPL for the buyer then sensitivity is key. Speaker power handling and amp out matching is good but speakers can definitely be run at higher wattage than the RMS rating if certain conditions are considered. More wattage is great for moving the speaker and really bringing out that bass. But a 50W RMS rated speaker with a sensitivity of 89db 1W/1m will be quieter than a 100W RMS rated speaker with 93db 1W/1m if both are receiving the same wattage or power.

Just a reminder for those looking to keep an eye on the sensitivity measurement too, the higher the db value per watt or 2.83v the louder the speaker will be. 6x9s are typically great because they are often more sensitive or produce more volume than than 6.5"s. This will also matter more for those running of the stock head units since its power output is probably <10W lol.

 

I admittedly do not know much about audio. What’s the difference between 6x9s and 6-3/4? As Crutchfield does not have 6-9s that fit for the front
Thanks in advance

 

6X9s are oval, 6-3/4s are round. 6X9 is what is in the front door of Tacos. (at least the 3rd gen, not sure about 1st or 2nds)

 

I see. Is there a difference in performance?

 

There are a lot of opinions on this. But for the most part 6x9s produce more SPL or volume than 6.5 or 6.75s, due to the larger surface area. Some say that 6x9s produce worse sound quality though due to the rigidity of the woofer cone. I feel like a $70 will preform as expected and a $300 6x9 will most likely sound quite nice comparably. I prefer 6x9s for the extra volume. The 6x9s in my truck are so much better than the 6.5" kickers I had, but that has nothing to do with their dimensions and everything to do with their build quality.

 

Good info thanks. So it’s just crutchfield that wants to push the 6.75 instead of the 6x9. I miss my shot when they were $52 so I’m waiting until they go down in price. I have a relative that gets me about 60% of the kickers ones but I priced them after getting adapters and mounting brackets and it’s actually $10 more if I buy everything separately

 

So question, some people experienced that the brackets for the new Kicker speakers doesn't align with the holes on the door. Is that true? I can see that yours aligned perfectly.

 

I think you mean the inner screws. The door holes seem to align for people, but people mention that the screws that mount the speaker to the adapter are not perfect. For the Kickers they arent and you just need to leave them loose until you have all the screws threaded a little. You'll also have to angle them when putting them in. I recommend getting bolts and nuts for mounting them rather than using the screw and the speed clip Crutchfield supplies. Their speed nuts are too small and dont actually captivate the screw but rather just hold onto a thread or two. Bolts are harder to thread in because the threads dont have a driving angle to them, but bolts with nuts hold the speaker securely.

 

This is what I did in my 3rd Gen. Pioneer Slim 12s with a Kenwood 1200W Amp pushing new door speakers and subs. It will rattle your teeth for sure.

 

I also relocated the tweeters in the fronts when I went with Fosgate Punch Component speakers. Didn't like the dashboard reflective sound so I installed them in the A-pillars. They sound perfect.